ITC/H5 88-91 civic-brake pads?
what pads are you H5/ITC guys using on 4g civic/2g crx? im currantly using hawk hp+ for everything. but now that im getting more comfortable and confident on track, im starting to fade them. i'd like to step it up and have comfident brakes for the glen.
91 std. no ducting, dust shields still in tact
hp+, autozone rotors (cause they make the best faces when i bring back broken rotors)
205-50-15 falken azenis.
-spenc
91 std. no ducting, dust shields still in tact
hp+, autozone rotors (cause they make the best faces when i bring back broken rotors)
205-50-15 falken azenis.
-spenc
whatever Larry at Carbotech recommends after you outline your usage to him. Seriously, the man is that good....
http://www.carbotecheng.com
http://www.carbotecheng.com
I use Cobalt's ITR Spec Bs.
I'm very happy with them. Haven't faded them yet, easy on rotors, and I haven't used ducting, not even at a monster braking track like CMP.
The initial bite isn't as aggressive as say a Hawk Blue, but they also don't destroy the rotors like a Hawk Blue.
Perfect for your application IMO.
And take the dust/rock shields off. It'll help a whole bunch.
I'm very happy with them. Haven't faded them yet, easy on rotors, and I haven't used ducting, not even at a monster braking track like CMP.
The initial bite isn't as aggressive as say a Hawk Blue, but they also don't destroy the rotors like a Hawk Blue.
Perfect for your application IMO.
And take the dust/rock shields off. It'll help a whole bunch.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Catch 22 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I use Cobalt's ITR Spec Bs.
I'm very happy with them. Haven't faded them yet, easy on rotors, and I haven't used ducting, not even at a monster braking track like CMP.
The initial bite isn't as aggressive as say a Hawk Blue, but they also don't destroy the rotors like a Hawk Blue.
Perfect for your application IMO.
And take the dust/rock shields off. It'll help a whole bunch.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Last time at Road Atlanta I faded mine, and went thru 2 sets of rotors. I got a ton of pad transfer onto the rotor and when I took off the wheel it was like a couple pounds of brake dust fell off them.
I think I'm going to try carbotech next.
I'm very happy with them. Haven't faded them yet, easy on rotors, and I haven't used ducting, not even at a monster braking track like CMP.
The initial bite isn't as aggressive as say a Hawk Blue, but they also don't destroy the rotors like a Hawk Blue.
Perfect for your application IMO.
And take the dust/rock shields off. It'll help a whole bunch.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Last time at Road Atlanta I faded mine, and went thru 2 sets of rotors. I got a ton of pad transfer onto the rotor and when I took off the wheel it was like a couple pounds of brake dust fell off them.
I think I'm going to try carbotech next.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ryan12321 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Last time at Road Atlanta I faded mine, and went thru 2 sets of rotors. I got a ton of pad transfer onto the rotor and when I took off the wheel it was like a couple pounds of brake dust fell off them. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Were any other pads used on that rotor?
Were any other pads used on that rotor?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Catch 22 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I use Cobalt's ITR Spec Bs.
I'm very happy with them. Haven't faded them yet, easy on rotors, and I haven't used ducting, not even at a monster braking track like CMP.
The initial bite isn't as aggressive as say a Hawk Blue, but they also don't destroy the rotors like a Hawk Blue.
Perfect for your application IMO.
And take the dust/rock shields off. It'll help a whole bunch.</TD></TR></TABLE>
yea, we ran blues on one of the racecars this weekend and since they didnt get bedded well or get up to temp, we killed a set of rotors. (they were slotted at the beginning of the day
)
ill check out carbotech. prolly 1108/1109. whatever larry thinks i should use.
-spenc
I'm very happy with them. Haven't faded them yet, easy on rotors, and I haven't used ducting, not even at a monster braking track like CMP.
The initial bite isn't as aggressive as say a Hawk Blue, but they also don't destroy the rotors like a Hawk Blue.
Perfect for your application IMO.
And take the dust/rock shields off. It'll help a whole bunch.</TD></TR></TABLE>
yea, we ran blues on one of the racecars this weekend and since they didnt get bedded well or get up to temp, we killed a set of rotors. (they were slotted at the beginning of the day
)ill check out carbotech. prolly 1108/1109. whatever larry thinks i should use.
-spenc
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Were any other pads used on that rotor?</TD></TR></TABLE>
The first set yes, the 2nd set no.
The first set yes, the 2nd set no.
Trending Topics
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ryan12321 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Last time at Road Atlanta I faded mine, and went thru 2 sets of rotors. I got a ton of pad transfer onto the rotor and when I took off the wheel it was like a couple pounds of brake dust fell off them.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
You were braking way to much. I had Cobalts on an Integra had no issues with wear or rotor damage. I perfer another brand pad for feel reasons, but wear like that is the car or driver, not the pads.
Last time at Road Atlanta I faded mine, and went thru 2 sets of rotors. I got a ton of pad transfer onto the rotor and when I took off the wheel it was like a couple pounds of brake dust fell off them.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
You were braking way to much. I had Cobalts on an Integra had no issues with wear or rotor damage. I perfer another brand pad for feel reasons, but wear like that is the car or driver, not the pads.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ryan12321 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The first set yes, the 2nd set no.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I used a set of Spec B's on a set of rotors that I had used Axxis ultimates on.
The end result was sparks, fire, scored rotors and 2 sets of dead brake pads (I put the ultimates back on after the Spec B's)
Driving them on the street (even just highway) will also groove the rotors.
I used a set of Spec B's on a set of rotors that I had used Axxis ultimates on.
The end result was sparks, fire, scored rotors and 2 sets of dead brake pads (I put the ultimates back on after the Spec B's)
Driving them on the street (even just highway) will also groove the rotors.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Lo-Buck EF »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">prolly 1108/1109. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I'd be really careful here on street tires , the 08's were too much for my Azenis , I run the P+ with street tires and couldnt be happier.
in that car for lapping days , thats all you need. I have never cooked a set , they last me an entire season of 12-14 events and I run Zero ducting /cooling. this is the car I drive to work everyday , now on the racecar I run the08/09's with R compound tires and they are great with tires that can handle the torque of that pad , a street tire cannot imho...
I'd be really careful here on street tires , the 08's were too much for my Azenis , I run the P+ with street tires and couldnt be happier.
in that car for lapping days , thats all you need. I have never cooked a set , they last me an entire season of 12-14 events and I run Zero ducting /cooling. this is the car I drive to work everyday , now on the racecar I run the08/09's with R compound tires and they are great with tires that can handle the torque of that pad , a street tire cannot imho...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by metalworker »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You were braking way to much. I had Cobalts on an Integra had no issues with wear or rotor damage. I perfer another brand pad for feel reasons, but wear like that is the car or driver, not the pads.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I really don't think I was braking too much. The only place I can think of that I was is turn 1. I was braking there too early but not for long. I left foot broke just slightly for 3. tap the brakes before turning in gfor 5. The first time on the pads I was braking around 110 ft on the backstraight with top speed of around 115 in my car on street tires. This time on race tires I couldn't brake any later than 140 on race tires.
The first time at road atlanta the pads did great with only minmal fading. The second time they just didn't want to work.
I could brake less but it'd just mean I would have to scrub speed with the tires.
I really don't think I was braking too much. The only place I can think of that I was is turn 1. I was braking there too early but not for long. I left foot broke just slightly for 3. tap the brakes before turning in gfor 5. The first time on the pads I was braking around 110 ft on the backstraight with top speed of around 115 in my car on street tires. This time on race tires I couldn't brake any later than 140 on race tires.
The first time at road atlanta the pads did great with only minmal fading. The second time they just didn't want to work.
I could brake less but it'd just mean I would have to scrub speed with the tires.
If your going to use new pads on used rotor, I find it very helpfull to take the rotors off and go over them real good with 50 grit sand paper, then put them back on. Mostly I just put on rotors on every time I change pads.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ryan12321 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Last time at Road Atlanta I faded mine, and went thru 2 sets of rotors. I got a ton of pad transfer onto the rotor and when I took off the wheel it was like a couple pounds of brake dust fell off them. </TD></TR></TABLE>
This was my experience with the VRs at RA and Barber, though the VRs never fadded. They don't have the initial bite I like and grooved 2 sets of rotors. I have some XP10s I will try next time out.
This was my experience with the VRs at RA and Barber, though the VRs never fadded. They don't have the initial bite I like and grooved 2 sets of rotors. I have some XP10s I will try next time out.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by metalworker »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
You were braking way to much. </TD></TR></TABLE>
What he said.
Either that or your rear drums are totally out of adjustment and you're using nothing but the fronts.
Road Atlanta is not all that hard on brakes and neither is an '89 Civic Si. I would definately look somewhere other than the pad to find the problem.
For reference, Between Blake and I we did about 5 hours (1 ECR, 3 sprint races, practice, qualifying) at Road Atlanta late last year on a little more than 1/2 of a set of Spec Bs. Lap times were not that far off of what you get in your Si and the weight of the cars is probably pretty close.
Also, Renee and I did 2 sprint races and an enduro at CMP earlier this year (about 4ish hours of track time) and hardly put a dent in a set of new Spec Bs and rotors. We later ran those same pads for a double at Barber and they are still on the car now.
You were braking way to much. </TD></TR></TABLE>
What he said.
Either that or your rear drums are totally out of adjustment and you're using nothing but the fronts.
Road Atlanta is not all that hard on brakes and neither is an '89 Civic Si. I would definately look somewhere other than the pad to find the problem.
For reference, Between Blake and I we did about 5 hours (1 ECR, 3 sprint races, practice, qualifying) at Road Atlanta late last year on a little more than 1/2 of a set of Spec Bs. Lap times were not that far off of what you get in your Si and the weight of the cars is probably pretty close.
Also, Renee and I did 2 sprint races and an enduro at CMP earlier this year (about 4ish hours of track time) and hardly put a dent in a set of new Spec Bs and rotors. We later ran those same pads for a double at Barber and they are still on the car now.
you guys would be surprised how well Axxiss Ultimates work on a light, low powered car. Ive never faded them (and brake hard enough to lock up way too much
) only complaints are glazing, and pads becoming soft.
) only complaints are glazing, and pads becoming soft.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by elgorey »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you guys would be surprised how well Axxiss Ultimates work on a light, low powered car. Ive never faded them (and brake hard enough to lock up way too much
) only complaints are glazing, and pads becoming soft.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'll 2nd this, just to show what a cheap bastard I am , i ran ultimates on the race car at summit and vir north, the pads never faded.. and i still have some pad left (not sure if i can get a 3rd race weekend out of it or not), but if you are real tight on money but insist on racing still (ie. me ;-)....take my method (cheap *** possible racing) way and slap on some ultimates (less than 50% the cost of a comprable full on race brake pad for my car) (heck , i've gotten less track time out of a set of porterfield r4s on my car before)
) only complaints are glazing, and pads becoming soft.</TD></TR></TABLE>I'll 2nd this, just to show what a cheap bastard I am , i ran ultimates on the race car at summit and vir north, the pads never faded.. and i still have some pad left (not sure if i can get a 3rd race weekend out of it or not), but if you are real tight on money but insist on racing still (ie. me ;-)....take my method (cheap *** possible racing) way and slap on some ultimates (less than 50% the cost of a comprable full on race brake pad for my car) (heck , i've gotten less track time out of a set of porterfield r4s on my car before)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Doctor CorteZ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I'd be really careful here on street tires , the 08's were too much for my Azenis , I run the P+ with street tires and couldnt be happier.
in that car for lapping days , thats all you need. I have never cooked a set , they last me an entire season of 12-14 events and I run Zero ducting /cooling. this is the car I drive to work everyday , now on the racecar I run the08/09's with R compound tires and they are great with tires that can handle the torque of that pad , a street tire cannot imho...</TD></TR></TABLE>
yea, i forgot about that. anyone know if the p+ is more agressave than the hp+? i cant find that brake pad graph cobalt used to have.
-spenc
I'd be really careful here on street tires , the 08's were too much for my Azenis , I run the P+ with street tires and couldnt be happier.
in that car for lapping days , thats all you need. I have never cooked a set , they last me an entire season of 12-14 events and I run Zero ducting /cooling. this is the car I drive to work everyday , now on the racecar I run the08/09's with R compound tires and they are great with tires that can handle the torque of that pad , a street tire cannot imho...</TD></TR></TABLE>
yea, i forgot about that. anyone know if the p+ is more agressave than the hp+? i cant find that brake pad graph cobalt used to have.
-spenc
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Lo-Buck EF »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">anyone know if the p+ is more agressave than the hp+?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes.
Yes.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Catch 22 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I use Cobalt's ITR Spec Bs.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well, they may be mounted on your car, but that doesn't mean you have ever used them
Well, they may be mounted on your car, but that doesn't mean you have ever used them
I'm running Raybestos ST43 compound on my 86 CRX SI in SCCA ITA.
This is a Nextel Cup short track compound i belive. These are unbeliveable for wear,pedal feel,stopping ability and pedal height. Not a cheap date by any means but, well worth it.
Bob
This is a Nextel Cup short track compound i belive. These are unbeliveable for wear,pedal feel,stopping ability and pedal height. Not a cheap date by any means but, well worth it.
Bob
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Doctor CorteZ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I'd be really careful here on street tires , the 08's were too much for my Azenis , I run the P+ with street tires and couldnt be happier.
in that car for lapping days , thats all you need. I have never cooked a set , they last me an entire season of 12-14 events and I run Zero ducting /cooling. this is the car I drive to work everyday , now on the racecar I run the08/09's with R compound tires and they are great with tires that can handle the torque of that pad , a street tire cannot imho...</TD></TR></TABLE>
I ran 1108's with kumho 711's and then with azenis. I did feel that the pads were a touch too much for azenis, but not so much that I wouldn't use them. I just wouldn't be hard on the pedal, a little more modulation was needed. I liked not having to worry about brake fade with the 1108's and never got any. I also really liked the strong initial bite the XP 1108's had over the HP+. It just gave me more confidence to try braking later and later into a high speed turn. I wouldn't be worried about using 1108's with kumho's or azenis, I did for a whole season of HPDE and it was never a huge issue. But that's just my opinion.
s
I'd be really careful here on street tires , the 08's were too much for my Azenis , I run the P+ with street tires and couldnt be happier.
in that car for lapping days , thats all you need. I have never cooked a set , they last me an entire season of 12-14 events and I run Zero ducting /cooling. this is the car I drive to work everyday , now on the racecar I run the08/09's with R compound tires and they are great with tires that can handle the torque of that pad , a street tire cannot imho...</TD></TR></TABLE>
I ran 1108's with kumho 711's and then with azenis. I did feel that the pads were a touch too much for azenis, but not so much that I wouldn't use them. I just wouldn't be hard on the pedal, a little more modulation was needed. I liked not having to worry about brake fade with the 1108's and never got any. I also really liked the strong initial bite the XP 1108's had over the HP+. It just gave me more confidence to try braking later and later into a high speed turn. I wouldn't be worried about using 1108's with kumho's or azenis, I did for a whole season of HPDE and it was never a huge issue. But that's just my opinion.
s
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Raybestos ST43 compound </TD></TR></TABLE>
I *think* a friend of mine showed up to VIR in a Fukus with this compound. Every time he hit the brakes it was like the 4th of July. Visible sparks extending all the way past the rear wheels DURING THE DAY!
Have *several* set of rotors on hand....
I *think* a friend of mine showed up to VIR in a Fukus with this compound. Every time he hit the brakes it was like the 4th of July. Visible sparks extending all the way past the rear wheels DURING THE DAY!
Have *several* set of rotors on hand....


