How to dent the inner fender for b-series install
I have a 91 hb, installing a b16 w/ hcp mounts.. is there a clean way to dent the innner fender for this installation? If I use a sledge, the paint will get all messed up. will a dead blow work?
Thanks,
Keith P.
Thanks,
Keith P.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pSI civic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how about a rubber mallet?</TD></TR></TABLE>
You'll be there for a long long time.
I think with a dead blow, the paint will chip and crack when you start beating on it anyways. Just get a can of rustoleum and spray the framerail down when you are done.
You'll be there for a long long time.
I think with a dead blow, the paint will chip and crack when you start beating on it anyways. Just get a can of rustoleum and spray the framerail down when you are done.
will the paint crack or flake? will the metal crinkle? I want this to look good, and I guess I can't paint the engine bay until I dent it and test fit the motor.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Keith P »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">will the paint crack or flake? will the metal crinkle? I want this to look good, and I guess I can't paint the engine bay until I dent it and test fit the motor.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Are you talking about painting the entire engine bay or just the dented framerail area? believe me when you are hammering on the framerail you'll want to get it right the first time. IMO dropping then pulling the motor because there wasn't enough alternator clearance is gonna be a major PITA. Just do it right the first time, dent the hollow area in the framrail , but also try to dent in the lower part of the framrail. This is a little harder since the lower part has some thicker metal behind it.
Are you talking about painting the entire engine bay or just the dented framerail area? believe me when you are hammering on the framerail you'll want to get it right the first time. IMO dropping then pulling the motor because there wasn't enough alternator clearance is gonna be a major PITA. Just do it right the first time, dent the hollow area in the framrail , but also try to dent in the lower part of the framrail. This is a little harder since the lower part has some thicker metal behind it.
I've seen some installation instructions mention putting a few layers of duct tape over that section so you dont have to repaint.
I've never tried it though, since I was repainting my whole engine bay anyways.
I've never tried it though, since I was repainting my whole engine bay anyways.
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Yeah can that work of just putting a smaller or larger belt on it? Anybody have pictures of where it needs to be dented?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by deftones0817 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you can get another alternator belt and not dent the fender at all. Just have to move the alternator out further...</TD></TR></TABLE>
I have to bring this one back from the dead... I have an unorthodox crank pulley on my 1st gen B16. Which belt would I use? I need a REALLY short on, eh?
I would love to not have to smash my frame rail if it can be avoided
P.S. I'm using old skool HCP mounts
Modified by Keith P at 12:58 PM 4/7/2005
I have to bring this one back from the dead... I have an unorthodox crank pulley on my 1st gen B16. Which belt would I use? I need a REALLY short on, eh?
I would love to not have to smash my frame rail if it can be avoided
P.S. I'm using old skool HCP mounts
Modified by Keith P at 12:58 PM 4/7/2005
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