Alright...so I did my rear disc brake swap, planning on doing integra fronts tomorrow. Parking brake lines are firm. So.. I bled the rear brakes....or tried to I guess. The brake pedal goes alllll the way to the floor. I press the pedal over and over again to the floor.. but never really tightens up and air continues to come out. Whats up with that?

Haven't changed the brake master cylinder or brake booster yet. Just a 7/8" one I think. I have a 1" waiting to be put on. Anyways.. let me know what I can do to fix this problem! Thanks!

 

are u sure u bled them correctly? do u have abs? sounds like air in the lines, esp if u have abs with air in the lines it gets real bad.

 

bleed em some more if air is still coming out

what hoses are you using in the rear?

 

I dont have ABS as far as I know.. no ABS box in the engine bay. My proportioning valve has 6 lines, not 4...

How could I not have bled them correctly? It's simple as can be.

I bled each corner for like 5 minutes straight of pure pumping the pedal all the way from it's un-pressed position to the floor. Never even got slightly tighter. I'm using integra brake lines in the rear. Came with the trailing arm assembly. I didn't mess with anything. Everything bolted up fine too.

 

Modified by CardDealer at 3:46 PM 11/17/2006

 

My dad was never closing the nut when the pedal was rising. Would that explain it?

No leaks in the lines because there is no fluid dripping anywhere. Reservoir is never dry. M/c worked fine before I did the rear brake swap. I'm planning on putting this ITR one in after I swap the front brakes.

Another question, the rust on the rotors will come off after I use them for a bit right?

Oh, btw.. schlit your IM's are turned off.

 

yeah that explains it. when the pedal rose it sucked air back in

yes rust will wear off

 

I think you bled them wrong. And you know theres a sequence to doing them right? I'm pretty sure its rear/pass, front/driver, rear/driver,then front/passenger. Do a search cuz i dont remember exactly. All i remember is that sequence (which could be wrong) and when u bleed you gotta have a person pump the brakes with nut closed then have them hold it. Then release the nut then tighten back (while pedal is still down) Do this until the fluid comes out of the lines in a straight stream. Correct me if I'm wrong fellas

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Shocka1998LX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My dad was never closing the nut when the pedal was rising. Would that explain it?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yup

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">No leaks in the lines because there is no fluid dripping anywhere. Reservoir is never dry. M/c worked fine before I did the rear brake swap. I'm planning on putting this ITR one in after I swap the front brakes.</TD></TR></TABLE>

No leaks because no fluid =p.

You have to (A) open the valve at one corner, (B) press the pedal all the way to the floor, (C) close the valve, (D) pull pedal off of floor, (E) repeat until nothing but clean fluid comes out of the lines.

 

Okay cool, thanks man.

 

Yes, that's the exact bleeding order.. rear pass, front driver, rear driver, front pass... if you don't bleed them in this order, you'll always have a little air in the lines.

 

the process is passanger rear, driver front, driver rear, passanger front.

1. have some one pump your brakes thill they get hard and hold them

2. open the bleed valve at the disc and allow fluid to relieve into a jar filled slightly with fluid, when you dont see any more bubbles close the valve.

3. repeat the first two steps several times till you dont see anymore bubbles.

4. keep a constant eye on the resevoir to ensure that it dosent get to low that it could suck in more air.

5. continue this process at each disc until no bubbles are present...then move to the next disc.

another way would be with a vampire kit. (a lot easier if you dont have help)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Syner-G-Racing &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
1. have some one pump your brakes thill they get hard and hold them
</TD></TR></TABLE>

DO NOT TO THIS STEP.. infact just press is like normal, the problem with this step is that you can create smaller bubbles that will be a BITCH to get out esp if you get it inside the porporting valve.

Do the rest but for step one just press it SLOWLY and till it goes to the floor, and when going up release slowly also

Do this,

The person who is controlling the bleeder screw can do this. He tells the other person in the car what to do. So he will open the screw and tell the driver DOWN, then once the driver gets down he yell's down, then the person yells up then the driver lifts off the pedal (slowly) then yell's up when he is off the pedal.

This is the best method that is taught.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BatuKing &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

DO NOT TO THIS STEP.. infact just press is like normal, the problem with this step is that you can create smaller bubbles that will be a BITCH to get out esp if you get it inside the porporting valve.

Do the rest but for step one just press it SLOWLY and till it goes to the floor, and when going up release slowly also

Do this,

The person who is controlling the bleeder screw can do this. He tells the other person in the car what to do. So he will open the screw and tell the driver DOWN, then once the driver gets down he yell's down, then the person yells up then the driver lifts off the pedal (slowly) then yell's up when he is off the pedal.

This is the best method that is taught.</TD></TR></TABLE> what ever works for you, this method has worked for me for years.

 

same here. always been a job where my step-dad yelled PUMP EM, HOLD EM, MAKE SURE UR HOLDIN EM, U HOLDING?, OK LET GO THEN PUMP EM AGAIN.

haha i would always **** up and forget to hold. but what the **** i was 7. haha

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Syner-G-Racing &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> what ever works for you, this method has worked for me for years. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Ok and the day you get a non booster ABS master cylinder(same as the new 4 runner and most lexus models) let me know how your method worked.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BatuKing &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Ok and the day you get a non booster ABS master cylinder(same as the new 4 runner and most lexus models) let me know how your method worked. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Ive replaced rotors/brakes/calipers/lines etc on several dodge durangos, caravans, preludes, camarys, caviliers, camaros etc. and this method works perfectly. it works so good it only take me about 30 minutes to completely cycle new fluid throught the system via a vampire pump kit and someone to pour fluid into the resevoir, and bleed the brakes (old school) with a helper in the car on the brakes. Never had a abs code stay on for more than intial startup and never had a customer call me back with a code (and I instructed them to call me imediatly if the light come on or they experience any type of fading in brake pedal effort). Its all preference my friend.
some people prefer to lift the engine out, some prefer to lift the car off the engine. its all preference.

 

you would go from the farthest side which is pass/rear to driver rear then to pass front then to driver front

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Syner-G-Racing &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Ive replaced rotors/brakes/calipers/lines etc on several dodge durangos, caravans, preludes, camarys, caviliers, camaros etc. and this method works perfectly. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I am not arguing your method but I take it from you list you havent seen the master cylinder I am talking about. It uses pressured brake fluid as a booster like hydroboost but using high pressure brake fluid as its boosing method.

WHen you have time go check out a toyota 4 runner (new one) or a newer land cruiser and take a look at the master cylinder (it costs $3000) and you will know what I am talking about.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Darren90teg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you would go from the farthest side which is pass/rear to driver rear then to pass front then to driver front</TD></TR></TABLE>

This only works on certain cars. on honda you have to do the following

1. Rear Passenger side
2 Front Drivers side
3. Rear Drivers side
4. Front passenger side

The reason is because the brake lines are cross in that order.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BatuKing &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I am not arguing your method but I take it from you list you havent seen the master cylinder I am talking about. It uses pressured brake fluid as a booster like hydroboost but using high pressure brake fluid as its boosing method.

WHen you have time go check out a toyota 4 runner (new one) or a newer land cruiser and take a look at the master cylinder (it costs $3000) and you will know what I am talking about.</TD></TR></TABLE>

ok, but his civic obviously doesnt have this new found greatness u speak of. so why does it matter? try helping the guy with the problem rather than try and show off that u know about new fancy 4runners and whatever. take that **** to 4runner-tech this is honda-tech.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BatuKing &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

DO NOT TO THIS STEP.. infact just press is like normal, the problem with this step is that you can create smaller bubbles that will be a BITCH to get out esp if you get it inside the porporting valve.

Do the rest but for step one just press it SLOWLY and till it goes to the floor, and when going up release slowly also
</TD></TR></TABLE>

hey he wasn't sayin to press the pedal hard he was saying to bleed until there is pressure when pressing the brake pedal down..

 

has the proportioning valve been replaced with a 4 wheel disc valve yet?