Is there a difference between the Mugen and Spoon pieces? I'm thinking of getting all three but don't know if there are pros and cons to each companies pieces. Different thresholds and such.


[Modified by 2k1TypeR0610, 11:50 PM 12/4/2001]

 

I'd go with Spoon.. mmmm yummy.

 

I dont think Mugen makes a thermo switch. As for the thermostats and caps, if I remember correctly the thermo. is 69 degrees and the Mugen is 68. The caps, Mugen has higher pressure. Try the search on this one, I think there was a comparison on the two awhile back.

 

Actually, the spoon one is higher, at 1.35 vs 1.3, not that it's a huge difference.

*edit* here's some good info:
http://s2000.vtec.net/underhood/radiator_cap.html


[Modified by ITR#231, 9:59 PM 12/4/2001]

 

Actually believe it or not but the small difference in numbers actuall makes the Spoon do twice as much, also Mugen doesnt make a Fan (thermo) switch

 

The link I found suggests an increase (over stock) in boiling point of 8.532 degrees F (mugen) vs 10.665 degrees F (spoon). I didn't bother to check their calculations.

 

on my part, didnt notice you had the link (I couldnt find it) Sorry it wasnt twice as much but 2 degrees more, knew it was a 2

 

What do the Spoon pieces go for?

 

About $35, I'm guessing. That's right around what I paid for mine, may be less in a GB if you can find one.

 

Package for the 3 is $175 (thermostat, switch and cap)

 

Which Spoon Radiator Cap fits the ITR, type D or type F?

 

Type D

 

Mike, did you ever find out if the Type F cap fits Fluidyne radiator?

Also, to everyone else, these are all good, high quality pieces and they WORK.
I have the combo of all three Spoon items and the car runs cooler for sure.

 

is there a point where the car can get t00 c00l ?
I'm just curious b/c a mechanic recently stated that the engine needs to run hot (230 degrees) for it to produce maximum power. If the m00gen/sp00n caps,stats & switches all try to keep the motor around 170~180 degrees F, then is our engine *not* putting out it's full potential?

yoshi - who just shrugs *shrugs*

 

My setup
Fluidyne Radiator, 2 11" Slimline fans, Spoon thermostat, Spoon thermoswitch, Fuidyn rad cap
Runs between 80-85 C (176-185 F) But that is mostly because of the Fluidyne radiator, and the fact that its just street driving, I expect the #'s to raise on the track.
You will be fine with just the Spoon setup.


MikeK - I have a shipment coming in with a few of the D and F caps The F looks to be the same design and shape, I'll let you know once it arrives

 

The Greddy cap fits on the fluidyne rads. At least that's what I have on mine.

-Alan

 

mr yoshi is refering to my situation i recently put a external oil cooler kit on my car i also had the mugen thermo well after all that i hooked my scan tool up and found out my car was running to cold it would not warm up.

so i took off the oil cooler b/c A. i was having a problem with the oil bleeding back between shifting hard.
B. i could not get the system to seal right.

i took out my mugen thermo and my vehicle warmed up nope porb and the car accually ran better the mugen thermo opens a 68C which is like a 154 F way cold
the stock is 174 D i now run keep cool in my system instead of coolant i really dont think we need to use these for our daily usage.

i think if you run a long road race or something like that it can help but for daily driving it doesnt even autox is so short it will not effect it. well thats my .02 worth ..

 

My thermodynamics from college are a little fuzzy, but I don't believe the a point where it's "too cool" for a car to make maximum power. Remember your combination law from college chemistry Pv=nrt (P = pressure or compression in our case, v=volume of the cylinder, r=constant, n=moles of air, t=temperature)

P and V will remain costant, after all the compression ratio and volume of the combustion chamber don't change unless you have one of those funky new Saab's. That leaves us with the r, n and T equaling a constant (P*V). If the temperature of the engine or cooling system increases, then the moles of air must decrease since they're inversely proportional to one another. With less air in the combustion chamber you'll use less fuel and consequently make less horsepower (hence disagreeing with your mechanic's theory). So, just based on this simple formula you can theorize that adding heat to an engine will actually cost you hp which is likely the case if you've ever driven you car an noticed it makes more hp before it fully warms up and the engine gets heat soaked.

Now I know it's nowhere near this simple in reality, but I honestly dont' believe motors make the most hp when piping hot and normal operating temperature.

As for operational effeciency (fuel mpg) however, your mechanic is right. An engine is most efficient when at Normal Operating temperature.

 

Well the oil also has to be at temp to fully provide it's lubricating qualities, although I don't know what that temperature might be.

sackdz - who has been shrugging a lot lately

 

The ARC one fit on the fluidyne too, right Pat?