I am considering sending my GSR head out for a Competition Head Work at Alaniz. I would like to increase compresion on the motor to at least 11.1. Can this be achieved by welding the C.Chambers? also, this will be a daily driver, are there any reliability issues to welding the head?

Now that think about it, i am not sure if alaniz rewelds the CC to cloverleaf desing.

 

with the stock pistons? probably not.......get a set of US ITR pistons and call it a day.......

 

FROM WHAT I KNOW JOE @ALANIZ DOES NOT DO CLOVER CHAMBERS BUT P30'S WOULD BE FINE OR SINCE IT SEEMS LIKE YOU JUST WANT TO DO THE HEAD TRY SOME FLAT TOP VALVES AND ASK JOE TO MILL THE HEAD LIKE .010

 

just get jdm p30 piston...bump ur cr to 11:7 then get spoon or mugen head gasket to make it 11:9cr good luck dude...

 

WHAT
KIND
OF
PISTONS
ARE
YOU
USING
???

 

Wait a minute!!! Doesn't the GSR head come with cloverleaf chambers right off the bat??? I've seen the chambers and they're pretty closed up.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1quickhatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Wait a minute!!! Doesn't the GSR head come with cloverleaf chambers right off the bat??? I've seen the chambers and they're pretty closed up.</TD></TR></TABLE>

pentroof style chambers.

 

Mill the head

 

get JDM ITR pistons....11.3:1 or so.

 

you can get close to 11/1 with just mod to the head. flat values and a thinner Cometic gasket

 

jdm p30 pistons...

 

Thanks for all the replys. I wish the keep the stock bottom for now so i wthink i will use flat faced valves and a 2 layer gasket and .10 mill. It may not get me there but it may be all that I can do at this time.

 

flat top valves add weight.

who says you need a head gasket? get the head milled, then lay it back down on the head with oil applied to both the block and head, torque it down, and call it a day.

or, get new valves and seats, tell your machinist to keep the valve as far into the chamber as possible, leave plenty of margin on the valve, and mill the head. not only will you get more compression, but youll have better flow without adding unsprung weight to the valve springs by using flat face valves.

better yet, buy an oem gasket, take off the two outer layers, and just run the middle gasket, giving you an even thinner gasket than the mugen or spoon, and youll spend 1/3 of the cash.

or the best idea, save your money and do your entire engine the right way all at once.

 

before you listen to callmejackass look at a few of his posts I found
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=967415

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=937406

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=965860

 

PS I am not a fan of milling you cant put the material back on once its been cut off and it changes the geometry of the engine.

 

thanks for posting a link showing my head, and the work i did to it. i appreciate that.

and you dont like milling because you cant put back material you took off? have you ever stopped to think that maybe there is material to take off so that you can rebuild the head?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CallMeJesus &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> get the head milled, then lay it back down on the head with oil applied to both the block and head, torque it down, and call it a day.
</TD></TR></TABLE>


LOL
blow headgaskets much?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CallMeJesus &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">flat top valves add weight.

who says you need a head gasket? get the head milled, then lay it back down on the head with oil applied to both the block and head, torque it down, and call it a day.

</TD></TR></TABLE>


wow.

 

do i blow headgaskets much? not on the race engines no, because they are only designed to last so long. that set-up lasted the life of one of my streeted race engines.

formula 1 does this, so if you doubt it, doubt the mechanical engineers building engines in F1.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CallMeJesus &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">do i blow headgaskets much? not on the race engines no, because they are only designed to last so long. that set-up lasted the life of one of my streeted race engines.

formula 1 does this, so if you doubt it, doubt the mechanical engineers building engines in F1.</TD></TR></TABLE>


these are street cars not f1 cars you can only use there tech on so many thing
i am also not a big fan of flat faced valves but in comparison to milling the head i will take heavy valves all day long.. milling the deck decreases surface thickness leaving you vulnerable to temperature issues, now before any one gets on my *** , no not all motors will heat up but why chance it . and if it does heat up it becomes so much easier for the head to warp pretty bad.also a milled head losses its value because of reconditioning issues..

 

where do you think the technology on todays cars come from? it filters down from F1. and using no head gasket was only 1 option i listed. lets try to read the other two, please.

milling the head does not create heat issues, at all. ive taken a total of 0.0030" off of a head, then cooked the **** out of it one summer when a head gasket failed (cometic), and the head didnt even warp 0.0001".

the previous said streeted race engine last nearly 10k miles with no head gakset. it would have kept on, but the compression rings started giving out, and the engine just started losing power across the band.

yeah, they are just street cars, so why even make them faster? they arent a drag car, touring car, rally car, etc...

 

b16 pistons all the way. Did 11.7 with those and a 2ply