my original plan was to get their competition head work done on my head...but since college is back in the picture, i'm running low on cash...so will the alaniz street master P&P work well will this set up?

B18c1 head milled to .20 with 2 layer head gasket
99 jdm itr spec cams
port matched sk2 mani
itr valves, dual valve springs, and retainers
jdm itr 98 spec headers with 2.5 cat
comptech icebox..
and a vafc2

i just wanna make sure because im another student in college who feels the need for more power...but on a budget! thanks...all comments are welcom..

 

It will be fine. Joe does good work.

 

yeah...spoke to him...and heard a lot of good things about him...buyyt my question is will this set up let me use the head to its full potential?

 

You sound like me except I have a B16, LOL. I went with the Street Master headwork with Alaniz as well. I've already paid for my headwork, but won't be able to send it off until December since school is back in. The Street Master headwork that Alaniz does is really good. When I was thinking about doing up the head on my B16 I asked a few reputable people that had experience building Honda engines about what I should get done. Basically, the consensus that I found was that you don't need to spend a ton of cash to get a Honda head to flow well as they do pretty good already from the factory. One engine builder told me that he did about $1500 worth of work and didn't make that much more than with a head that he spent half of that on. Stick with the Street Master work, I say (especially in your case being on a budget and all.) The money you save would be better used on a set of more aggressive camshafts.

Also, you might want to reconsider the 2-layer headgasket with the .020 mill. I thought about it too until someone (Joe at Alaniz) brought it to my attention that it is going to make it like the head has been milled to near or at .040, and unless you or whoever is building the motor is the man at clearances, you're going to be replacing broken and/or damaged stuff soon with that head and gasket combo. If you want to bump CR up more, go with flat bottomed valves. I am picking up the valves from Omni Power myself. Good luck.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ironmonkee &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You sound like me except I have a B16, LOL. I went with the Street Master headwork with Alaniz as well. I've already paid for my headwork, but won't be able to send it off until December since school is back in. The Street Master headwork that Alaniz does is really good. When I was thinking about doing up the head on my B16 I asked a few reputable people that had experience building Honda engines about what I should get done. Basically, the consensus that I found was that you don't need to spend a ton of cash to get a Honda head to flow well as they do pretty good already from the factory. One engine builder told me that he did about $1500 worth of work and didn't make that much more than with a head that he spent half of that on. Stick with the Street Master work, I say (especially in your case being on a budget and all.) The money you save would be better used on a set of more aggressive camshafts.

Also, you might want to reconsider the 2-layer headgasket with the .020 mill. I thought about it too until someone (Joe at Alaniz) brought it to my attention that it is going to make it like the head has been milled to near or at .040, and unless you or whoever is building the motor is the man at clearances, you're going to be replacing broken and/or damaged stuff soon with that head and gasket combo. If you want to bump CR up more, go with flat bottomed valves. I am picking up the valves from Omni Power myself. Good luck. </TD></TR></TABLE>
i had also spoke to joe about upgrading my valves to omnipower valves...he said that you don't have spend more money on aftermarket valve, that the oem valves will work perfectly with for the P&P head...

 

yes, joe's street port will do more than enough for your setup, and even if have plans to upgrade your setup, it'll do fine.

i've been a 2 year user of joe's street master P&P, and i will personally say, it was the best 800 bucks i've ever spent.



stock cat, stock exhaust, stock itr muffler, and stock intake, with an apc filter.

i'd say it works.

right click and save this link, if u wanna see the dyno run http://www.we-todd-did-racing....DE%3D

btw, that was just 2 runs, the camera guy had to split. just 3 runs total... made more power everytime, but without a cut valve cover, removing it to do cam gear adjustments was just a PITA

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gfunkmos37 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i had also spoke to joe about upgrading my valves to omnipower valves...he said that you don't have spend more money on aftermarket valve, that the oem valves will work perfectly with for the P&P head... </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes the stock valves will work fine, but the only reason I am getting the Omni Power valves is because they have flat bottoms. The flat bottoms will help in increasing the CR (another .2 or .3 of a point). That, with the milling, will bump it up a nice amount (hopefully somewhere around 10.5-10.7:1 for me with stock USDM B16 pistons. With a set of JDM B16 pistons I could be close to or right at 11:1). It is an option to consider besides running a thinner head gasket for increased CR.

 

B18c1 or c5?

 

b18c1, untouched bottom end

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by obd2gsr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

stock cat, stock exhaust, stock itr muffler, and stock intake, with an apc filter.

i'd say it works. PITA</TD></TR></TABLE>

damn...181 with stock internals hoping i can make the same or more with my setup

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ironmonkee &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Yes the stock valves will work fine, but the only reason I am getting the Omni Power valves is because they have flat bottoms. The flat bottoms will help in increasing the CR (another .2 or .3 of a point). That, with the milling, will bump it up a nice amount (hopefully somewhere around 10.5-10.7:1 for me with stock USDM B16 pistons. With a set of JDM B16 pistons I could be close to or right at 11:1). It is an option to consider besides running a thinner head gasket for increased CR.</TD></TR></TABLE>

This thought has been lingering in the back of my head for quite some time now..Biology book or omnipower valves?...hmm a 11:1 CR would be nice....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by obd2gsr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">b18c1, untouched bottom end</TD></TR></TABLE>

what did you use to tune it?

 

JOE IS AN EXCELLENT CHOICE HE DOES GREAT WORK AND IT IS VERY DETAILED FLAT VALVES ARE GREAT IF YOU WANT MORE COMPRESSION BUT IM FIGURING THAT THE ONLY REASON THAT JOE RECOMMENDED OEM VALVES IS BECAUSE FLAT VALVES ARE HEAVY COMPARED TO OEM'S AS FAR AS STREET MASTER PORT BEING ENOUGH .. ITS MORE THAN ENOUGH HE DOES HAVE OTHER STAGES BUT THOSE ARE SET UP FOR MORE AGGRESSIVE SETUPS BUT FOR A STOCK BOTTOM END THAT SHOULD SATISFY YOUR THIRST FOR POWER PLUS THAT PARTICULAR PORT CONSERVES ALOT OF LOW AND MID ON YOU POWER BAND WITH A NICE TOP END

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by flow-zilla &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">JOE IS AN EXCELLENT CHOICE HE DOES GREAT WORK AND IT IS VERY DETAILED FLAT VALVES ARE GREAT IF YOU WANT MORE COMPRESSION BUT IM FIGURING THAT THE ONLY REASON THAT JOE RECOMMENDED OEM VALVES IS BECAUSE FLAT VALVES ARE HEAVY COMPARED TO OEM'S AS FAR AS STREET MASTER PORT BEING ENOUGH .. ITS MORE THAN ENOUGH HE DOES HAVE OTHER STAGES BUT THOSE ARE SET UP FOR MORE AGGRESSIVE SETUPS BUT FOR A STOCK BOTTOM END THAT SHOULD SATISFY YOUR THIRST FOR POWER PLUS THAT PARTICULAR PORT CONSERVES ALOT OF LOW AND MID ON YOU POWER BAND WITH A NICE TOP END </TD></TR></TABLE>
yup..cant afford the bottom end...but definately a for vtec to the top end...Joe also recogmended that i should get a bigger TB and a fuel reg/ fuel rail combo....with the vafc2...im thinking on getting an ecu and getting the TB bored out....as for fuel...i think an AEM fuel rail and regulator will do fine....just as long as I tune this bitch up right


Modified by gfunkmos37 at 10:40 AM 8/28/2004

 

I got my TB bored out to 64mm when I put on the Skunk2 intake manifold I have. Definitely worth it. As far as the valves vs. biology book goes, I hate to say it but go with the book . School &gt; Car.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ironmonkee &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I got my TB bored out to 64mm when I put on the Skunk2 intake manifold I have. Definitely worth it. As far as the valves vs. biology book goes, I hate to say it but go with the book . School &gt; Car.</TD></TR></TABLE>

hows the gas milage with a bored TB?

 

cam gear adjustments (2x), and advanced timing...

didn't have hondata or vafc or nothing

but next time i hit the dyno, i will have hondata, and i've got a test pipe/2.25 mandrel bent exhaust/255 lph fuel pump, so we'll see just how much we can max out of this setup.

 

ASK JOE, He should know!!!

Joe isn't only a great head porter, he is an awesome engine builder. (ask andy hope)

 

Make sure he doesnt slice off your exhaust valve guides.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by obd2gsr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">cam gear adjustments (2x), and advanced timing...

didn't have hondata or vafc or nothing

but next time i hit the dyno, i will have hondata, and i've got a test pipe/2.25 mandrel bent exhaust/255 lph fuel pump, so we'll see just how much we can max out of this setup.</TD></TR></TABLE>

show me the # when you have it all done


Modified by gfunkmos37 at 7:43 PM 8/28/2004

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM EK9 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ASK JOE, He should know!!!

Joe isn't only a great head porter, he is an awesome engine builder. (ask andy hope)</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thats true...thats why i went to him for my head work..they were many other choices...(not saying that they were bad) but Joe was the easiest guy to deal with... alaniz

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DavidR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Make sure he doesnt slice off your exhaust valve guides. </TD></TR></TABLE>
haha

 

i should be getting the head back sometime around the 10 of sept..so ill let you know the results when everything is done and said

 

It isn't funny, he did it to mine!
I think for the money, you can get a better job from 'other' sources.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DavidR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It isn't funny, he did it to mine!
I think for the money, you can get a better job from 'other' sources.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I know it isn't funny...i just commented on the smile face you had on at the end of your statement. Im sure that there are many other sources that can do the P&P for cheaper or the same amount of money...believe me..i shopped around...but i chose Alaniz because i had friends that had work done from Alaniz and the quality and gains from the P&P stands out from the rest. This is just my opinion(Im not saying that other companies do bad P&P,or that Alaniz is the best)