Anyone ever removed and replaced pistons with engine in car? Young built H22A - don't wanna remove the engine again. How difficult is it to torque the connecting rod caps with the main bearing bridge/caps in place? Thanks.

 

I've done it in a couple of different cars. I can't speak for your engine, as I've never worked on it, but I've pulled pistons from 2 mitsubishi engines with the engines in the car (4G63T and a G32B). Other than the obvious difficulty of being underneath the car, there weren't any issues.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Quade &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Anyone ever removed and replaced pistons with engine in car? Young built H22A - don't wanna remove the engine again. How difficult is it to torque the connecting rod caps with the main bearing bridge/caps in place? Thanks. </TD></TR></TABLE>
yes.
not that difficult.

 

i prefer pulling the engine, its a pain in teh *** to pull teh head, then get down under hte car and unbolt the rods, and push that **** back out.

 

I don't think Mitsu's should count. I've worked on a bunch of cars, and personally Mitsu's have the easiest motors to work on. They truly designed their motors with racing in mind. You don't really have to remove too much to take off the head let alone the rest of the motor.

Case and example:
To take off the head all you have to do is take off the valve cover and timing belt. Everything else can pretty much stay in place and the head bolts are easy to access.

Don't think I'm trying to put down Mitsu's. Personally I give them a for their engineering.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RevenantAE &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I've done it in a couple of different cars. I can't speak for your engine, as I've never worked on it, but I've pulled pistons from 2 mitsubishi engines with the engines in the car (4G63T and a G32B). Other than the obvious difficulty of being underneath the car, there weren't any issues.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

Done it... easier outside of the car, but not all that hard inside the car.

 

Depends.. I found pulling the head on a 1G AWD DSM to be a monstrous pain in the ****. The funky rear brace on the intake manny is one painful piece to get a wrench on. If I ever have to do that again, I'll just pull the engine

If that doesn't count though... I've got nothing else to offer. Every other time I've touched pistons the engine has been out of the car.

 

You might as well pull the motor out of the car. Unless you're on a budget you should invest the extra $100-500 on blueprinting and balancing the build.

 

I wanted to ditch the car, and wasn't about to go to to much trouble to replace a popped valve. Pulled the head, cleaned it, lapped in a new valve, reassembled and off to some guy that wanted a project car.

EDIT: I wasn't sure how much a PITA it would be till I got the intake manny off.... by then, too late.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98JDM_Type_R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I don't think Mitsu's should count. I've worked on a bunch of cars, and personally Mitsu's have the easiest motors to work on. They truly designed their motors with racing in mind. You don't really have to remove too much to take off the head let alone the rest of the motor.

Case and example:
To take off the head all you have to do is take off the valve cover and timing belt. Everything else can pretty much stay in place and the head bolts are easy to access.

Don't think I'm trying to put down Mitsu's. Personally I give them a for their engineering.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

well my eclipse GT is a pain in the *** and i give them a for engineering.

 

Ive also done engine rebuild with block in the car on my old 1G AWD DSM. Takes some time but it isnt that hard if you dont have the luxury to pull the motor out.

 

OK Thanks for all the replies. Now....Has anyone removed and replaced pistons on the H22A specifically? If so, is it necessary to remove the bearing cradle to access the conrod bolts? The crank? On this page it appears as though there's no need to remove the crank or bearing cradle...........just wanna double check.

http://hondatuningmagazine.com/tech/0211hon_swap/

If so what needs to be removed after the sump in order to gain access to the bearing cradle installed.


Modified by Quade at 9:02 PM 8/26/2004


Modified by Quade at 9:13 PM 8/26/2004

 

I've had to do something very similar on my old H23. It's not hard at all.

It is easier w/ the motor out, but it's not hard at all to just pull the head, pull the girdle, then pull the pistons out the top.

 

so can it be done in the car without removing the cradle?

 

Yes you can do it with the engine in the car and with the main bearings on. At a minimum you need to take off the oil pickup and oil baffle though. A good magnet on a rod tool will be handy for maneuvering the rod caps behind the main cap girdle. Also, you can pull the main beaning caps and the alternator belt and clutch will hold the crank up so its weight is not all on the oil seals. That would make it easier to push the pistons up out of the block. You are probably less likely to scratch the bores or bend the oil squirters with the main caps off; more room to work and see what's going on. Good luck...

 

yes, no need to pull the girlde. you can spin the cranck and get to a clear potion then use an extension