First of all i searched a lot and still didn't find the answer.

5 months ago,i hit the itr in the wheels and the rear calipers had to be removed,so the panel beater would work more comfortable..

from then,the brakes aren't as they were..I bleeded them for 6 times with all the ways i found on H-t,and i'm defenetly sure that there is no air in the system. I checked the brake lines and are in a perfect condition..

The brakes aren't that bad..abs works and the car stops.. but, the pedal starts responding a bit further down than it was..

when i first bleeded the brakes,i pressed the pedal all way through!! I know i ruin the mc that way,but i didn't know..

Is there a way to be 100% sure that the mc is bad?? or there's another problem??

please help me out.. i'm really sad..

 

Maybe since it has been 5 months you don't recall how the brakes felt correctly? or that the time the car was sitting the rust built up, maybe the rotors you replaced with are not corrrect, maybe the pads are just shot from sitting, maybe your brake fluid is contaminated from sitting so long and needs to be replaced.... I dunno... maybe your used to the car you have been using instead of the R...

Or you could just be nuts

 

I kept the same rotors and i replaced the brake fluid!!
to be sure about the brake feel,i just drove another 98 spec itr and the brakes are exactly as mine where!!!

prob i'm crazy.. or i got crazy..
thanks for the reply

 

some help pls..

 

I drove Jdm 98spec r's car and the pedal definately feels spongier/mushier than mine..........

So he's not crazy (ie. actually he is... but not that much )


Some ppl say we need a honda tester while bleeding brakes.....

Rgds,

 

What order did you do on bleeding 'em?

Perhaps it might be the fluid you bought as well?

MC shouldn't be bad since you're stopping like you said.

Check the brake lines around the car as well to make sure there is no kinks or small cracks in the hoses.

 

i bleeded first front wheels then rear..and the fluid is locheed dot4.
theres no specific way to check the mc?
thanks for the help..

 

there are ways to check the master.

easiest way for you is to use a brake hose pinch off tool


use one on each hose, or just each rear hose. this is not a 100% test, but if the pedal is good with the pincers on, the master is pretty for sure good.

DO NOT drive with pincers on.

if the pedal is much better with the pincers on,

remove the pincers one at a time while someone has their foot on the brake. the pedal will drop a little for each one as the brakes apply to the rotor(s). on the one(s) where there is a dramatic drop, you will find the problem.

if there is for sure no air in the system, check for a gap between a pad and the rotor, or pad and caliper. if a shim has slipped, or a slide pin has bent or siezed, it could cause this. if the pads are the old ones, and were not put back in their original position, they may have established a wear angle, and could cause this due to flex. if the calipers are the type that have a notch in the piston, and the inner pad has a corresponding nipple, make sure they are indexed together, or it could cause this.

or it could be something else too. hope you get it fingered out.

pearlfootprints@yahoo.com

if the pedal has no change with pincers at all 4 wheels, it is likely a bad master, though it could be anything above the pincers causing it.

 

Thanks a lot for the help burble..
Last week i ordered the master cylinder Repair kit.. it consists of the inner parts in the MC.. I'll change it and c how it works..

After all,there's no way that i could find pinchers here in Malta!!

Thanks again.