All My light PULSING?!?!?
well i noticed this last night when i was drving home that all my lights in my car and my headlights were pulsing?!?!?
does anyone no what this could be from??
only thing i did was install a ex cluster
help please
does anyone no what this could be from??
only thing i did was install a ex cluster
help please
mine lights are pulsing too, i'm thinking it's a bad ground....
someday, i will try to replace some grounds with 4ga or 8ga audio wire
LMK if you get the problem fixed
someday, i will try to replace some grounds with 4ga or 8ga audio wire
LMK if you get the problem fixed
it bugs the **** out of me too. I'm not sure which civic you have but I've been checking the wiring diagram and it might be either ground located behind the driver and passenger side kick panel...
*shrugs*
*shrugs*
That's exactly the same thing I've noticed on mine. It's been happening for a year or so, intermittently. I've also had the SRS (airbag) light come on during driving during extreme pulsing periods.
Is this a cut and dried problem with a bad ground? Anybody know exactly where the ground is that might be causing this?
Is this a cut and dried problem with a bad ground? Anybody know exactly where the ground is that might be causing this?
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mugenhatch92 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well today it quit for a min and when i hit the brakes it came back on, then back off again...
also my speedometer has quit working when it pulses also</TD></TR></TABLE>
goto auto zone and have your **** tested... its free
also my speedometer has quit working when it pulses also</TD></TR></TABLE>
goto auto zone and have your **** tested... its free
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Smith Wise »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so the alternator needs to be replaced? I checked mine and it is getting 16-17 volts like it should be</TD></TR></TABLE>
lol alternator should do 14 volts, and you need to test the amps not just volts.
if it does 14 volts at 4 amps it will take days to charge the alternator.
lol alternator should do 14 volts, and you need to test the amps not just volts.
if it does 14 volts at 4 amps it will take days to charge the alternator.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Smith Wise »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so the alternator needs to be replaced? I checked mine and it is getting 16-17 volts like it should be</TD></TR></TABLE>
WOAH!!! theres your problem... your alternator should only be charging between 13.8 and 14.5 volts.... replace that bad boy before your blow something to smitherines (lol, i cant believe i just typed that in there)
WOAH!!! theres your problem... your alternator should only be charging between 13.8 and 14.5 volts.... replace that bad boy before your blow something to smitherines (lol, i cant believe i just typed that in there)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by m3dia_lab »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
goto auto zone and have your **** tested... its free</TD></TR></TABLE>
have what tested the altenator? yeah but then you got to take the bitch out of the car, and all that ****...
i jsut want to know what the **** is causing this problem
goto auto zone and have your **** tested... its free</TD></TR></TABLE>
have what tested the altenator? yeah but then you got to take the bitch out of the car, and all that ****...
i jsut want to know what the **** is causing this problem
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mugenhatch92 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
have what tested the altenator? yeah but then you got to take the bitch out of the car, and all that ****...
i jsut want to know what the **** is causing this problem</TD></TR></TABLE>
they can load test your alternator in the car... then you shut it off and they can test your battery as well.
have what tested the altenator? yeah but then you got to take the bitch out of the car, and all that ****...
i jsut want to know what the **** is causing this problem</TD></TR></TABLE>
they can load test your alternator in the car... then you shut it off and they can test your battery as well.
This happened to me a few years ago. There is a voltage regulator inside the alternator itself that's probably cooked. As far as I was told, the voltage regulator is built-into the alternator and cannot be replaced - the entire alternator will need to be rebuilt or replaced. My guess is that the voltage regulator CAN be replaced, however, you'd need to take the alternator out ANYWAYS, and the cost of labour taking one of those things apart and replacing that one piece, you might as well get a complete replacement so that you won't have anymore problems for a while.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Westsideboy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This happened to me a few years ago. There is a voltage regulator inside the alternator itself that's probably cooked. As far as I was told, the voltage regulator is built-into the alternator and cannot be replaced - the entire alternator will need to be rebuilt or replaced. My guess is that the voltage regulator CAN be replaced, however, you'd need to take the alternator out ANYWAYS, and the cost of labour taking one of those things apart and replacing that one piece, you might as well get a complete replacement so that you won't have anymore problems for a while.</TD></TR></TABLE>
the voltage regulator is a sealed unit. as is the alternator. correct me if im wrong.
the voltage regulator is a sealed unit. as is the alternator. correct me if im wrong.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by m3dia_lab »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
goto auto zone and have your **** tested... its free</TD></TR></TABLE>
NO! They will probably give you the wrong information. They told me I needed a new alt. when all I needed was some connections cleaned.
goto auto zone and have your **** tested... its free</TD></TR></TABLE>
NO! They will probably give you the wrong information. They told me I needed a new alt. when all I needed was some connections cleaned.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JimmyAtlantis »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">NO! They will probably give you the wrong information. They told me I needed a new alt. when all I needed was some connections cleaned.</TD></TR></TABLE>
that has to do with the idiot that tested your alternator. any moron can tell the first things to check are connections. never ever jump to the alternator being bad on a on-car test. always start with the simplest stuff.
autozone tests them for free, just take the numbers and use that to start troubleshooting.
that has to do with the idiot that tested your alternator. any moron can tell the first things to check are connections. never ever jump to the alternator being bad on a on-car test. always start with the simplest stuff.
autozone tests them for free, just take the numbers and use that to start troubleshooting.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Kamin »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
always start with the simplest stuff.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
with such things as clean all grounds like, tranny ground, head ground, alt ground, and ground by the coolant thing? any other simple stuff to do?
always start with the simplest stuff.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
with such things as clean all grounds like, tranny ground, head ground, alt ground, and ground by the coolant thing? any other simple stuff to do?


