Roll Cage Designs?
hmmm, if you are planning on making your own, keep this in mind. roll cages not only stiffen the chassis, but they are also mainly used to create a 'bubble' of steel around the driver so that in the event of a crash he/she will be fully protected even if the entire car get ripped apart. essentially, most cars have two large beams running down the middle and end of the car which constitute the 'bottom' of the 'saftey area' per say. the engine bay is made to be crushed and absorb more impact while the passegner part of the car is meant to stay stiff from those beams. this is all fine an dandy, but what if you flip? the whole idea is to have strong tubing fortify the chassis all around the car as to protect the driver from anything more than the average head on collision. you need to support the sides of the car, and the top of the car, and depending on how complex you want to get into the design there are different places you would choose to strengthen first.
one of the main ideas of building structures is to use triangles. a 45 degree angle between two beams will distribute pressure most evenly thereby causing the least amount of stress on each component. when designing a cage, use 45 degree angles wherever possible as to acheive maximum stregth. its best to have the main corners of the layout bent witha machine rather than welding together the joints. the support beams can be welded on to the main frame of the cage but the essential corners should always be a continuous piece that is bent to have the most strength.
the most basic layout would consist of a bar on each side oft he car that goes along the b-pillar(or behind the front doors if its a 2-door), and go along the roof slightly behind the front seats. to keep them standing up and not bending if you flip, you will run support beams towards the rear at about a 45 degree angle. many people run a diagonal beam between the two b-pillar beams to strenthen them and you can add one or even two beams that form an 'X' between the support beams going to the rear at that 45 degree angle. you need to be careful where you mount the cage to the chassis as well, because bolting it down int the wrong place could make it worthless in a roll over because it will not have a good footing to press against when the weight of the car is on it. make sure you bolt the cage to the beams running along the chassis for the best footing.
if you wish to get complicated, then you can add beams going over the front doors and down across the a-pillar and another beam connecting them across the top of the windsheild. you can also add horizontal beams on the sides of the doors with hinges and locks on them so you can flip them up and get in and out of the car. of course there are many more points you can add beams to but that is the simple layout of a 4 and 6 point cage. sorry for not having any pictures, ill look for some real quick to see if i can find anything custom... otherwise just look up autopower or cusco or something
one of the main ideas of building structures is to use triangles. a 45 degree angle between two beams will distribute pressure most evenly thereby causing the least amount of stress on each component. when designing a cage, use 45 degree angles wherever possible as to acheive maximum stregth. its best to have the main corners of the layout bent witha machine rather than welding together the joints. the support beams can be welded on to the main frame of the cage but the essential corners should always be a continuous piece that is bent to have the most strength.
the most basic layout would consist of a bar on each side oft he car that goes along the b-pillar(or behind the front doors if its a 2-door), and go along the roof slightly behind the front seats. to keep them standing up and not bending if you flip, you will run support beams towards the rear at about a 45 degree angle. many people run a diagonal beam between the two b-pillar beams to strenthen them and you can add one or even two beams that form an 'X' between the support beams going to the rear at that 45 degree angle. you need to be careful where you mount the cage to the chassis as well, because bolting it down int the wrong place could make it worthless in a roll over because it will not have a good footing to press against when the weight of the car is on it. make sure you bolt the cage to the beams running along the chassis for the best footing.
if you wish to get complicated, then you can add beams going over the front doors and down across the a-pillar and another beam connecting them across the top of the windsheild. you can also add horizontal beams on the sides of the doors with hinges and locks on them so you can flip them up and get in and out of the car. of course there are many more points you can add beams to but that is the simple layout of a 4 and 6 point cage. sorry for not having any pictures, ill look for some real quick to see if i can find anything custom... otherwise just look up autopower or cusco or something
Also what are you building the car for because Drag racing and Road racing have different rules for cages. (Design and Materials)
One other thing is that I would not suggest putting a cage is a car that you drive daily. Padding helps but it wont provide much cushion to an unprotected head.
One other thing is that I would not suggest putting a cage is a car that you drive daily. Padding helps but it wont provide much cushion to an unprotected head.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by uc0083 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Also what are you building the car for because Drag racing and Road racing have different rules for cages. (Design and Materials)
One other thing is that I would not suggest putting a cage is a car that you drive daily. Padding helps but it wont provide much cushion to an unprotected head.</TD></TR></TABLE>
exactly. if you plan on using your cage in competition you ahve to meet certain standards for it to be allowed. they will not allow a cage that does not meet there requirements. and as for driving around in it daily, you should be fine as long as you dont do anything retarded but in the chance that you flip you can die from head injuries from hitting the bars. if you have a cage a harness is a must.
One other thing is that I would not suggest putting a cage is a car that you drive daily. Padding helps but it wont provide much cushion to an unprotected head.</TD></TR></TABLE>
exactly. if you plan on using your cage in competition you ahve to meet certain standards for it to be allowed. they will not allow a cage that does not meet there requirements. and as for driving around in it daily, you should be fine as long as you dont do anything retarded but in the chance that you flip you can die from head injuries from hitting the bars. if you have a cage a harness is a must.
nice pics boys... mine looks somthing like those... just not done yet... any idea of the thickness of tube i need for NHRA events?
btw this is for my full drag hatch. not street driven and no ******* around.
btw this is for my full drag hatch. not street driven and no ******* around.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sleep »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">nice pics boys... mine looks somthing like those... just not done yet... any idea of the thickness of tube i need for NHRA events?
btw this is for my full drag hatch. not street driven and no ******* around.</TD></TR></TABLE>
rule books are you best friend
btw this is for my full drag hatch. not street driven and no ******* around.</TD></TR></TABLE>
rule books are you best friend
Hmmm...I'm liking those cages...but the harness bar looks a little low on the green car. The harnesses actually have to go UP and through the holes in the seat...I'd prefer them to be level.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by riot »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hmmm...I'm liking those cages...but the harness bar looks a little low on the green car. The harnesses actually have to go UP and through the holes in the seat...I'd prefer them to be level.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I believe the SCCA mandates that the straps be between a certain set of angles (straight not being one of them).
http://www.cascadeautosports.com is responsible for at least on of those cages
Rich
I believe the SCCA mandates that the straps be between a certain set of angles (straight not being one of them).
http://www.cascadeautosports.com is responsible for at least on of those cages
Rich
I almost DD my caged teg, and the top bars are far enough from my head, that if it were to hit the cage, id have more probs than just my head hitting. sit your seat as low as posible. It helps with lower center of gravity, plus its much safer....dunno how much harnesses strech in a roll over (depends on the impact) but ive got almost 8 inches before my head hits (and im 6')
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by stockredej1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">cool lookin cages</TD></TR></TABLE>
It's all about function.
Make sure you use the SFI-approved padding, not that cheap heating-pipe insulation. The right stuff is hard, it has to be to decellerate your head in one inch.
And like others said, get the rule book for whatever you'll be using the car for, it can save your life.
FWIW, here's my cage. Not shown are the additional door tubes added later to form a full "X."
It's all about function.
Make sure you use the SFI-approved padding, not that cheap heating-pipe insulation. The right stuff is hard, it has to be to decellerate your head in one inch.
And like others said, get the rule book for whatever you'll be using the car for, it can save your life.
FWIW, here's my cage. Not shown are the additional door tubes added later to form a full "X."
Everything still works, i only need to cut the bottom corner pannel on each side to get them in. The seats are just sitting in there loose... Cage is NHRA legal.
From my cardomain site (link in my sig):
Well, the cage is finally done and its actually legal. Somehow we managed to get about a 33* angle on the down bars on the back (minimun is 30), but had to cut into the back wall piece. I got NHRA legal swing outs for both sides. Both bars have pins at the bottom and top so you can either climb over, pull the top pin and swing the bar out, or pull both pins, remove the bar, and put it in the turnk or whatever. The seats are just sitting in there so the pass seat would come forward a little and not be right under that bar. The drivers seat is lined up where they will both be. Anyway, here it is...
PS: heading to paint this week (thats the plan anyway)





From my cardomain site (link in my sig):
Well, the cage is finally done and its actually legal. Somehow we managed to get about a 33* angle on the down bars on the back (minimun is 30), but had to cut into the back wall piece. I got NHRA legal swing outs for both sides. Both bars have pins at the bottom and top so you can either climb over, pull the top pin and swing the bar out, or pull both pins, remove the bar, and put it in the turnk or whatever. The seats are just sitting in there so the pass seat would come forward a little and not be right under that bar. The drivers seat is lined up where they will both be. Anyway, here it is...
PS: heading to paint this week (thats the plan anyway)





<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nonsense »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hey that doesn't count, your car IS the cage
damn I'm always impressed when I see that thing. . . . . oh a little late but congrats on the GRM Internet Hotrod of the Month
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks. I don't mean to be promoting the car (I'm not selling them,) but it seems to lend itself well here to show various aspects of car construction...
damn I'm always impressed when I see that thing. . . . . oh a little late but congrats on the GRM Internet Hotrod of the Month
</TD></TR></TABLE>Thanks. I don't mean to be promoting the car (I'm not selling them,) but it seems to lend itself well here to show various aspects of car construction...







