has anyone built a B16A to turn 10000rpm and last. What valve springs would you trust to that rpm? what cams would make power to 9000+ with 12.2 compression

thanks

 

Any Stage 3 cam should make some high RPM power, not sure about 10k though. You better stud/balance that bottom end, while you're at it.. loosen up the bearing clearances one step looser than stock.

 

Any B16 that has a strong bottom end should be able to see 10k without a problem. Mine has been above 10k once, but not on purpose. The one question I have is why do you want to rev above 10k? My skunk2 stage 2 cams make power all the way to 9k, so I don't see why the stage 3 cams can't make power higher than than since the lift and duration is much more aggressive, but 10k that may be a stretch for anything that is not custom made.

 

Takumi's 4ag motor rev's to 11000rpm!!!!
...but seriously, i sometimes do wonder what it would feel like revving up to 10000rpm. maybe toda D's or jun 4's would make power up there?

 

the best advise i can offer you is to contact your engine builder and ask him his advise... ive had plenty of motors hit the 10,000s with no problem but any one who is building it for you will have his spex

we used skunk 3's cams and super tech springs

 

I ran 10,000 rpms on my 12.5:1, sleeved, 84.5 mm b16a until a Eagle Rod bolt broke and sent the rod straight thru the block. You can do it, but make sure you get a rod with a least a 3/8" bolt. Preferably Crower or Pauter. Don't use an Eagle Rod. If you have any doubts about it talk to "Earl" (mod on FI forum). He's built plenty of race motors. By the way, I got 3,000 miles out of my motor. It was fun while it lasted.

 

hey man, eagle rod bolts SUCK

i ran a stock bottom end to 10,000 rpm for 10,000 miles.

it wore the **** out of my rings. dont expect them, or anything thats attached to your motor (alternator,distributor) to last long.

if i were to build a 10,000 rpm motor i would make sure that my oil pump was new, and setup for build more pressure than stock, and i would pick some good rod bolts, because those are going to see the stress the most.

BTW for 10k rpm u need rockets gen1 springs

 

10g rpm's would be cool...gotta work on making it reliable

 

CHECK OUT CRANE CAMS ROLLER ROCKER SETUP ,LIGHTENS VALVE TRAIN BY 108% over stock ,they have cam with power range 5000to12500rpm eliminates vtec

 

toda makes a vtec killer setup for all out high rpm..sounds expensive to me

 

ARP everything bolts for sure, B16 could do it with the right stuff in it, considering its near perfect R/S ratio. I doubt many cams out there would make power past 9500rpm though for a street car and if you did the car would be even more torqueless than a typical B16.

 

i had a stock 1st gen b16 with no rev limiter and governor.
it revved up so quick in 1st that it was hard not hitting a high rpm.. that and the fact it was my 1st swap and i drove it like an *******.
but i can say i hit the motors redline more than a handful of times. ALOT more.
i cant really remeber but it was i think +-200 rpm from 10000 and thats as high as it would go.
obviously it dodnt make any power that high and i could feel it loose power after 8k
but all im saying is the motor took the abuse. i wonder how long it lasted after i sold it.
also took the car to 150 mph
i think i maxed it out at like 150 mph at 6k in 5th.. i think i coulda got maybe 5 mph more max. theres just way too much drag at that speed.
i think i hot 120 in 4th gear at about 8k rpm before i had it chipped,
just throwing out some numbers incase anyone was curious.

oh yea going 150 mph in a gutted ef is pretty scary
as the shocks compress and rebound on the rebound of the shock id prob travel what seems like 250 feet.

and for anyone who wants to hate it was on the 5 freeway in ca. at about 4am on a saturday so it was empty and like 5 lanes wide

 

thanks for all your advice.maybe I will keep it more towards 9000 rpm sounds safer