I have searched and gotten a decent amount of information but i wan peoples opinions directly, TMy main thing is, if i wanted to turbo which would be better for the money? I mean a b16a is less than half the price of a b18c give me your input

 

1st gen B16A are easy to put in because they were in DA integras in Japan. They bolt in and plug in will very minimal modifications. The B18C on the other hand is going to be more work because they come with a hydralic tranny (you need a cable tranny for a '90 teg) and they are OBD-I or OBD-II while your teg is OBD-0. You'll have to convert your car to this new type of on-board-diagnostics. I would suggest searching around the forums and Teg Tips on http://www.g2ic.com for some more information regarding each of these swap.

Regarding turboing, both would be great for turboing. If you want to really make a lot of power both will need a rebuild with some forged, lower compression pistons, ARP rod bolts, etc. because stock they are pretty high compression and the ringlandings like to go on the stock pistons. Personally, I'd go for the B16 because the initial cost is a lot cheaper, spare B16 blocks can be found for pretty damn cheap, and IMO the more $$$ you'll spend on a B18C won't justify the power increase. Good luck!

 

you can tune both to a little over 300whp on stock internals. I'd go b16 because its cheaper initially and comes ready for your car. it also comes w/ a killer tranny.

 

Yea cuz i can get a b16 for like 1200 and a b18c would be about 3000 and thats an extra 1800$ that i could use for other parts do you think it owuld be better for me to piece together my own kit for the b16 or to buy a kit for it? would it be cheaper and better to piece it together myself? thanks for the help guys

 

piecing a kit together is cheaper if you can find the deals and be patient, plus you get the pieces you want, instead of being stuck with all the components of a kit.

i'd go b16 because of the money factor.

 

I as well would go with a b16 cheaper and as stated you could the extra money on other parts that you need.

if you gonna turbo check out full-race.com its pricey but you get your money's worth

 

iight thanks guys ill keep you posted

 

Why not get an LS motor if you're gonna boost it? The b18c and b16 have more power because of higher compression pistons, if you're gonna replace those anyways I don't see the point. Yeah i know there's other factors than that. But for the street I'd go with cheaper LS to turbo, since you'll probably end up replacing alot of internals anyways, unless youre running really low boost.

 

CAn the ls be built to hold high psi?

 

of course.....
how high u talkin? on stock internals and good fuel/engine management it can hold probably up to 10psi safely. however if ur lookin for like 20psi u'd def. want some forged pistons/rods/arp rod bolts/etc. then if u wanted more that than ud prolly need to sleeve it.

 

With stock internals which woul dbe quicker having the same level boost, a boosted ls or a boosted b16a? because b16a and LS are in almost the same price range so I just want to get the better one

 

The B16 would be pushing a lot more power because it has higher compression (10:1 or something vs. 9.2:1). It also won't last as long though because there is going to be much high cylinder pressure and the piston ringlandings will most likely go out. In stock form, the LS can run more boost because of the lower compression but this doesn't necessarily mean it will be pushing more power. There are lots of pros and cons for low boost/high compression VS high boost/low compression in turboing. I suggest browsing and searching the Forced Induction forum for more information on turbocharging .

 

id go with teh b16 if you need some more powa put a gsr crank now u got a gs-r with a b16 head. but wut i would really do is b16 block get it resleeved to 2.0 pistons and rods bullet proof bottom end and then get the turbo setup going.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by walkin4now &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yea cuz i can get a b16 for like 1200 and a b18c would be about 3000 and thats an extra 1800$ that i could use for other parts do you think it owuld be better for me to piece together my own kit for the b16 or to buy a kit for it? would it be cheaper and better to piece it together myself? thanks for the help guys</TD></TR></TABLE>

Screw the kit, I doubt anyone makes a kit for that car. You'll end up butchering it anyway. I turbocharged by 90 Integra LS and it was a PITA.

You are going to have problems with the downpipe clearing the front crossmember and you'll probably want to relocate the battery. That's just two of the problems I encountered.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by evil_schmevil &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Screw the kit, I doubt anyone makes a kit for that car. You'll end up butchering it anyway. I turbocharged by 90 Integra LS and it was a PITA.

You are going to have problems with the downpipe clearing the front crossmember and you'll probably want to relocate the battery. That's just two of the problems I encountered.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yea, that's why I axed turboing my car. It's alot more cramped than 94+ tegs. Plus you can't keep A/C unless you run 2x as long intercooler piping.

 

here's my advice from many frustrating hours piecing together a turbo 90 integra.

First off, what's wrong with the stock motor. Turbo charge that if at all possible.
Save your money for engine parts.

Second, do get some forged pistons at the minimum. Rods and sleeves are nice too but at a minimum do the pistons. You can fit forged pistons on stock rods.

Third, get yourself some DSM 450cc injectors and a custom chip for your fuel and timing management. Plenty of people can burn you a chip that will compensate for the larger injectors and pull back some timing for a scaled MAP output . Which leads me to number 4.

Fourth, Your MAP sensor goes to about 10 or 11 psi of boost but throws a CEL for anything above atmospheric. So all you'll need to do is scale the MAP sensor voltage down with an AFC or a home made voltage divider so you don't throw a CEL. This has the added benefit of being able to run larger injectors for fueling without adding table space in the stock fuel and timing maps.

Five, make friends with someone who knows how to weld. You'll need plenty of custom piping, flanges, oil pan fittings etc welded.

Just my $0.02

edit: Oh yeah, Six, hang out in the Forced Induction forum and learn all you can.




Modified by evil_schmevil at 10:47 AM 8/26/2004

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Honda Hick &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yea, that's why I axed turboing my car. It's alot more cramped than 94+ tegs. Plus you can't keep A/C unless you run 2x as long intercooler piping.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Listen to this guy, I just purchased a Drag Gen III Kit for my car, the piping and Intercooler are made for my car, yet I'm going to have to move Power Steering Lines and cut some of the piping because Drag is off on their specs.. They even faxed the specs for the IC piping on the 90 Integra, and they're off on that too.. Oh well, **** happens -.-

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 90integra05 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Listen to this guy, I just purchased a Drag Gen III Kit for my car, the piping and Intercooler are made for my car, yet I'm going to have to move Power Steering Lines and cut some of the piping because Drag is off on their specs.. They even faxed the specs for the IC piping on the 90 Integra, and they're off on that too.. Oh well, **** happens -.-</TD></TR></TABLE>

why does this not suprize me. "Sure, we have a kit that fits that car, just send us $3000"

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zad5 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">id go with teh b16 if you need some more powa put a gsr crank now u got a gs-r with a b16 head. but wut i would really do is b16 block get it resleeved to 2.0 pistons and rods bullet proof bottom end and then get the turbo setup going. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I don't think that would work. the deck height of a B16 is different than a B18 block... I am pretty sure that you can't just install a GSR crank into a B16 and expect it to work.

Also, you can't straight out bore a B16 to 2.0 liters... without needing like an 89mm bore, and even then I don't know.


Now I'm pretty sure about all of that with ONE exception...
unless you were talking about a B17 crank... that you can do... get a B17 crank and rods, and then bore and sleeve, and you can get around a 1.9...
-Mike