Is it better to mount the kill switch inside within reach of the driver and run a cable outside for corner workers, or mount the kill switch outside and run a cable to the driver?

 

Between those options I don't really think it matters. I personally like to keep the electronics inside since I have removed or compromised much of the car's ability to keep water out of most places. As long as you can activate the switch when you're strapped in and the corner workers can activate the switch without getting in the car, you're good. I know a lot of people have their switch setup differently, but I think this is the best idea.

 

I put mine just inside the A-pillar on the driver's side, so I can reach it and someone outside can get to it as well...



K

 

In the middle on the inside is a good place. The driver can reach it easily and the corner workers can reach it from either side. If the car was up against the wall on the side the switch is on, the worker might have trouble reaching it if the driver was unable to do it on their own.

 

switch under the hood with cable action for the driver seems like a good idea to me, since you wouldn't have to run power cables through the firewall, risking a short

 

Agree w/Chris on location. We ran a cable to the pillar on passenger side for crew aand a second one to the inside is getting done as well. Then again I also have a MAIN power disconnect for the Ignition, ECU, etc on the dash as well.

 

with the use of a cable to create a remote pull switch, it doesnt matter where you would place the actual switch. most cars ive seen place it either near the side mirrors (on either side) or inside the dash, so thats where a corner worker will look initially. making the corner worker _reach in_ isnt ideal for the corner worker.

so i would just place it within drivers reach and close to the window like kirk has it and then run a cable across the dashboard to the opposite side rear view mirror. make a loop and cover it with red tape, along with the proper sticker of course.

 

Thank you everyone for your suggestions.

I'm thinking I'll mount the switch near the driver window then run a cable to the passenger side just below the windshield.

This will keep the switch within reach of me and allow the course worker kill the car from either side.

The only draw back I can see is the extra amount of wiring required (minor drawback). Unfortunately electrical wiring is NOT my strong suit

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Knestis &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I put mine just inside the A-pillar on the driver's side</TD></TR></TABLE>

This is where mine is as well.

 

To save weight and batt. cable length, consider making an alum cover plate to fit the pass side airbag hole, and put the switch there. It's only about 18" to the battery from there. Then run a choke adjustment cable ($10 from NAPA) to the driver. The switch/or cable **** is easily reached from outside either side of the car, and the driver can pull it too.


Modified by Track rat at 1:20 PM 8/16/2004

 

actually, on second thought, keeping the electricals away from the driver given the choice would be better, so i agree with track rat to put it on the passenger side for less electrical wiring and have the pull cable run to the driver side.

 

Airbags didn't exist in '87 but I get your point. It would be easier to mount the kill switch in the dash because I wouldn't have to fabricate a bracket to attach it to the roll cage.

 

All the better, won't have to fab a cover plate!

 

But if its on the passenger side what happens if you get in, belted up, helmet on and ****** the kill switch is off

 

I suspect that you would only do that ONCE. Or try real hard to push on that cable...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">But if its on the passenger side what happens if you get in, belted up, helmet on and ****** the kill switch is off </TD></TR></TABLE>

I had the kill switch mounted on the cowl cover. It was fine until my jackass friends decided it would be cool to turn the car off after I strapped in on my way to grid.

So my vote goes for mounting it in the driver window area.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">But if its on the passenger side what happens if you get in, belted up, helmet on and ****** the kill switch is off </TD></TR></TABLE>

I can't tell you how many times that's happened to me with my switch on the hood. Worst placement evAr!!11111

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SJR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I suspect that you would only do that ONCE. Or try real hard to push on that cable... </TD></TR></TABLE>

You'd think that....

 

15.7 Master Switch
An electrical master switch is recommended on all cars, and required on some, as listed
in the class rules. It shall be mounted so that it is easily accessible from the outside.
The switch shall cut all power except to the on-board fire system and any other life
support / medical device. The switch location must be clearly marked. Any marked
switch must function as per this rule, or the indication decal must be removed.

Some with short arms might say that placement in the center of the car is not accessible.

As mentioned, you can't push a cable.

I would mount it where I can reach it, then cable it to the outside.

Kirk's method is best.

 

jeremy, as for mounting the switch to the rollbar, if you decided to do this, you really wouldnt need any sophisticated mount. i just used a split collar used on fencing and muffler hanger from the auto store. you can kind of get an idea in my pic.



ive seen even more elegant ways of just cutting sheet metal and wrapping it around the bar and then drilling two holes that allow for the shaft of the switch.