Basically I will be doing routin work with it, such as charge pipes, exhaust piping and some other custom parts. So how do these seem ? Also what else besides the gas would I need to get going after I bought these machines.

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr...69000
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr...CRAFT

 

Get this: http://www.eastwoodco.com/shop...=1264

All you need is a bottle of gas and you're set. (plus it's very good quality)

 

Welds up to 1/8" steel, is that good ? I see a lot of other machines that weld up to 1/4. And the one you posted is 115 volts, the other ones are 120, is that a huge difference ? Also I know it says 1/8 steal, but if I'm welding a big piece, doesn't it only have to stick to the top, anyone care to explain that better.


Modified by 90blackcrx at 8:02 PM 8/15/2004

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 90blackcrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Welds up to 1/8" steel, is that good ? I see a lot of other machines that weld up to 1/4. And the one you posted is 115 volts, the other ones are 120, is that a huge difference ? Also I know it says 1/8 steal, but if I'm welding a big piece, doesn't it only have to stick to the top, anyone care to explain that better.


Modified by 90blackcrx at 8:02 PM 8/15/2004</TD></TR></TABLE>

??? Anyone, I started thinking a little more and 1/8 seems really small. I thought the weld just stuck to the top basically.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SiRex91 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Get this: http://www.eastwoodco.com/shop...=1264

All you need is a bottle of gas and you're set. (plus it's very good quality)</TD></TR></TABLE>

would this unit be good for stainless steel exhaust?

 

I'd go for the Hobart. If you look around (i.e. eBay), you might even be able to get a 135 for close to the same scratch.

The Lincoln, mentioned above, isn't a bad machine, but it's even more light-duty than the two you're looking at (like you said, it's only rated to 1/8" steel vs the 3/16" rating of the ones you brought up).

The Craftsman looks pretty good, too, but I'd recommed the Hobart because then you're not limited to only Sears for support (i.e. parts, accessories, etc).

Good luck with your decision -- I'm sure you'll enjoy whichever you end up with.

 

Look into this Weld Pak 10 as its has the adjustable heat range where as the easy weld seems to only have adj wire feed speed

It can do 1/4

http://www.eastwoodco.com/shop...19071

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 89civicdx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Look into this Weld Pak 10 as its has the adjustable heat range where as the easy weld seems to only have adj wire feed speed

It can do 1/4

http://www.eastwoodco.com/shop...19071 </TD></TR></TABLE>

Thats just a tad over my spending limit, so can someone explain the can weld up to 1/4" of steel, does this mean if it had to it could penetrate threw, because I know when you weld, I don't want the weld going all the way threw. I just noticed that the craftsman one comes with

MIG gun, face mask, starter wire spool, hammer/brush and welder cart included , this one sounds like a good deal. What kind of gas would I have to buy ?


Modified by 90blackcrx at 3:44 PM 8/16/2004

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ndustryalGSR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'd go for the Hobart. If you look around (i.e. eBay), you might even be able to get a 135 for close to the same scratch. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Harbor Freight has the Hobart 135 for $375

http://www.harborfreight.com/c...55236

 

the Craftsman one that you are talking about doesnt come with the regulators. you need to buy them for another $70 i think it is. i have that exact welder and it does plenty of jobs. i did my exhaust and strut bar with it. what exactly r u welding that is 1/4" think for a car? you can just use flux-core wire with the Craftsman one. if you have a budget then i would just suggest using flux-core. btw- if you get the catalog from sears they have that welder for $300 instead of $350. just go in and order it from them. tell them you want it for $300 and you shouldnt have to pay shipping either. when i ordered mine they wanted $350 plus $40 shipping. but i talked them down to $300 total

 

Whats the difference between the hobart 135 and 125 ?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98AccordEX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the Craftsman one that you are talking about doesnt come with the regulators. you need to buy them for another $70 i think it is. i have that exact welder and it does plenty of jobs. i did my exhaust and strut bar with it. what exactly r u welding that is 1/4" think for a car? you can just use flux-core wire with the Craftsman one. if you have a budget then i would just suggest using flux-core. btw- if you get the catalog from sears they have that welder for $300 instead of $350. just go in and order it from them. tell them you want it for $300 and you shouldnt have to pay shipping either. when i ordered mine they wanted $350 plus $40 shipping. but i talked them down to $300 total</TD></TR></TABLE>

I have not seen one yet that came with the regulators, the hobart I posted above does not, or does it ? At the moment the only thing that I could think that would be around 1/4 would be the exhaust templet ( the big metal piece that connects to the engine ) . But this is where I get confused, welds don't go threw things, I thought they only sit on top basically so why does it have to go threw the 1/4, can someone explain that rating a little better to me.

 

i doubt you will be welding the flange on the header. unless you are making a header also which is a difficult procedure

yes a weld somewhat sits on top of the metal. but it needs to penetrate both pieces of metal you are welding together to be a strong weld. if your weld just sits on top it will break apart

i would suggest that you just start welding with flux-core. it is sloppier but it will work fine to learn with. then if you want you can add a bottle later. i love the Craftsman welder you mentioned. it does everything i need it to do. eventually i will buy a tig and learn that. u could always take a class. i am new to welding also so i am taking 2 welding classes next semester. 1st one teaches mig and oxy-ace. 2nd one teaches mig and tig. look into a community college

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98AccordEX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i doubt you will be welding the flange on the header. unless you are making a header also which is a difficult procedure

yes a weld somewhat sits on top of the metal. but it needs to penetrate both pieces of metal you are welding together to be a strong weld. if your weld just sits on top it will break apart

i would suggest that you just start welding with flux-core. it is sloppier but it will work fine to learn with. then if you want you can add a bottle later. i love the Craftsman welder you mentioned. it does everything i need it to do. eventually i will buy a tig and learn that. u could always take a class. i am new to welding also so i am taking 2 welding classes next semester. 1st one teaches mig and oxy-ace. 2nd one teaches mig and tig. look into a community college</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks for the response, about learning, I took 1 year of welding in school, it covered mostly arc and gas welding, I think arc would be harder then mig, so basically if you know how to arc, you know how to mig.

 

Anyone want to fill me in on what gas I need to buy, and do I need to mix it with anything or how much pressure should be reading on the gauge.

 

If I am gonna relocate mounts for an engine, would these machines be able to take care of that ?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 90blackcrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If I am gonna relocate mounts for an engine, would these machines be able to take care of that ?</TD></TR></TABLE>

???????? will it be able to ?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 90blackcrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Anyone want to fill me in on what gas I need to buy, and do I need to mix it with anything or how much pressure should be reading on the gauge.</TD></TR></TABLE>

12 000psi. on the tank i use.

I get my gas from a company called Proxair (sp?) Welding gas for Mig machines is a mixture of argon, helium and something else.. (cant remember) you local welding shop has they own brand, with different levels. They will know exactly what you need. Tig (tugston gas arc welding) using Just argon, which is much more expensive.

To weld in engine mounts.. I wouldnt go less then a 220V machine. Or an arc with some 7014 rods. 3 passes with each, or weave. Make it strong!

I love my esab comact 2000 welder. cost over 2000$ but WELL worth it. I can weld up to 1" plate.

Use .034 welding wire for mounts, if the welder cant handle the wire, the welder is too small.

Welds penetrate right in, once done it should be a smooth transition between the base metals and the weld. It should NOT sit on top, or else it will crack. I started with a 220V machine and always have used it. Ive been welding for 2 yrs.

THeres 2 types of (basic) flat position welds forehand and backhand, Forehand you push the gun, backhand you pull. Forehand has deeper penetration and requirs more skill. You need to know the angle to hold the gun, speed, and how to set up the welder.

I sugest you get some flatbar and a shear, cut the flatbar 6" long and weld them together like a staircase untill you get good, stop and start in the middles!

Welding is a very fun thing! But untill you get good i wouldnt recommend doing engine mounts, it requires ALOT of skill. Remember the amounts of torque on these mounts is... Well alot.

Sorry if my thoughts are in sorta backwards order.. I just typed as they came to me.

I have my CWB certification (my highschool rules). Free testing

Goodluck!

 

you should be good with 75% argon 25% co2

 

Thanks for the respones, I have tookin a welding class for a year, the main thing the teacher focused on was arc welding and gas, and he always said once you master arc you can master just about anything. We had to weld piping and pressure test it. I wonder if I can dig up some of my old welds. The machine I'm really looking at is that craftsman one, it does not say how many amps it is though. How many do you guys think it is ?

 

Does anyone know how many amps that craftsman welder is ?