OneFAB Prelude H22 Setup
We just finished our Series ONE H22 Setup for preludes/accords.
The manifold is Closer Equal Lenght than most Avail. Within .5" between runners If that. Standard materials, 8g 304.....
Little to NO Cutting to Fit full 3" Dp.
Slight notching of the Crossmember recomended unless Solid motor mounts are used. The DP Fits without notching, We recomend it to make it live from being crushed from the movement of the motor on stock mounts.
All of you will be quick to notice the low placement of the turbo, There isnt much you can do with this because of the Alternator, The Turbo must sit below it.
There is still adequate room and placement to properly run a Return line.
Let us know what you think and check out our new Site should be up within the next few days...










The manifold is Closer Equal Lenght than most Avail. Within .5" between runners If that. Standard materials, 8g 304.....
Little to NO Cutting to Fit full 3" Dp.
Slight notching of the Crossmember recomended unless Solid motor mounts are used. The DP Fits without notching, We recomend it to make it live from being crushed from the movement of the motor on stock mounts.
All of you will be quick to notice the low placement of the turbo, There isnt much you can do with this because of the Alternator, The Turbo must sit below it.
There is still adequate room and placement to properly run a Return line.
Let us know what you think and check out our new Site should be up within the next few days...










<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by prelittlelude »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hehe nice work,
i think you will need to run a civic half size radiator with that setup right?
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Yea Unfortunatly you do.
We can get you guys some great package deals on the Radiator stuff if needed as well.
The reason being for the radiator is to run the I/C piping, everything else actually fits with the full length radiator.
If you were to run an aftermarket Crossmember you could get around it.
Which we should have pretty soon, We are trying to develope a Traction bar setup for this chassis
Matt
i think you will need to run a civic half size radiator with that setup right?
</TD></TR></TABLE>Yea Unfortunatly you do.
We can get you guys some great package deals on the Radiator stuff if needed as well.
The reason being for the radiator is to run the I/C piping, everything else actually fits with the full length radiator.
If you were to run an aftermarket Crossmember you could get around it.
Which we should have pretty soon, We are trying to develope a Traction bar setup for this chassis
Matt
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That is beautiful! If I wasn't doing H23 with a DSM, I'd be all over that.
So you reccomend running a civic-sized radiator for I/C purposes? I was going to do MY DIY piping like the Drag kit (both I/C in and I/C out go outside the battery, where a CAI would go), but if you found a better way to route I would love to hear about it. I'm extremely interested in how you chose to run the piping.
So you reccomend running a civic-sized radiator for I/C purposes? I was going to do MY DIY piping like the Drag kit (both I/C in and I/C out go outside the battery, where a CAI would go), but if you found a better way to route I would love to hear about it. I'm extremely interested in how you chose to run the piping.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Freemantle »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That is beautiful! If I wasn't doing H23 with a DSM, I'd be all over that.
So you reccomend running a civic-sized radiator for I/C purposes? I was going to do MY DIY piping like the Drag kit (both I/C in and I/C out go outside the battery, where a CAI would go), but if you found a better way to route I would love to hear about it. I'm extremely interested in how you chose to run the piping.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Wait what.... h23/dsm?
We Can accomadate h23 either way.
but...
Well the purpose of the small radiator Is to accomdate the I/C piping.
The ideal way to do it would be a backdoor setup. Straight into the back of the I/C.
Other than that It would run in between the crossmember and where the condensor would sit and right through where the drivers side tow hook is. From there it would make its way around the car and have a side to side i/c setup
So you reccomend running a civic-sized radiator for I/C purposes? I was going to do MY DIY piping like the Drag kit (both I/C in and I/C out go outside the battery, where a CAI would go), but if you found a better way to route I would love to hear about it. I'm extremely interested in how you chose to run the piping.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Wait what.... h23/dsm?
We Can accomadate h23 either way.
but...
Well the purpose of the small radiator Is to accomdate the I/C piping.
The ideal way to do it would be a backdoor setup. Straight into the back of the I/C.
Other than that It would run in between the crossmember and where the condensor would sit and right through where the drivers side tow hook is. From there it would make its way around the car and have a side to side i/c setup
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MackDad »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Gotta remove A/C compressor don't you?
Here in Florida it's a necessity....</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yea no a/c on this setup....
Keep an eye out in the next couple of months for an a/c kit
Here in Florida it's a necessity....</TD></TR></TABLE>Yea no a/c on this setup....
Keep an eye out in the next couple of months for an a/c kit
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MugenPoweredLude »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">mmm so purdy
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Honda CRX / EF Civic (1988 - 1991)
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