Need help - Crank bolt
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From: Southern, CA, USA
Alright, here is the deal. And before anyone bitches, I did a search on taking the crank bolt off.
My problem is this. HAYNES manual SUCKS *****!!!!!
I have to get my car running soon. I am in the middle of trying to replace the water pump and can't get the crank bolt loose. I have minimal tools and am using a rachet with a makeshift breaker bar on the end.
I did a search and came up with these:
- put the car in 5th and have someone push the breaks in - tried this and it wasnt enough. I'm too damn strong!
- remove the starter????? - what the hell. did this and it didnt do a damn thing to keep the crank from rotating.
- find the flywheel and wedge a screwdriver in the teeth. - cant do this because im stupid and cant find the damn flywheel.
Does someone have a photo of the flywheel on the engine (I searched and like I said HAYNES SUCKS *****)....and how hard is it to get to????
Need help please. Gotta get my ride up and running.
thanks in advance.
My problem is this. HAYNES manual SUCKS *****!!!!!
I have to get my car running soon. I am in the middle of trying to replace the water pump and can't get the crank bolt loose. I have minimal tools and am using a rachet with a makeshift breaker bar on the end.
I did a search and came up with these:
- put the car in 5th and have someone push the breaks in - tried this and it wasnt enough. I'm too damn strong!
- remove the starter????? - what the hell. did this and it didnt do a damn thing to keep the crank from rotating.
- find the flywheel and wedge a screwdriver in the teeth. - cant do this because im stupid and cant find the damn flywheel.
Does someone have a photo of the flywheel on the engine (I searched and like I said HAYNES SUCKS *****)....and how hard is it to get to????
Need help please. Gotta get my ride up and running.
thanks in advance.
To get to the fly wheel, get under your car and see where the tranny and engine meets... there should be a cover bolted down with two bolts (12mm, visilible) and another bolt above the driver shaft ( I think). take those bolts and cover off and you will see the fly wheel. Just wedge a monkey wrench in there and that will allow you to remove the crank pully bolt. Use a really long pipe on the ratchet to give it more torque and turn it slow.
sorry I would give you some pix but I am away from home. It's failty simple once you get that cover off the fly wheel.
sorry I would give you some pix but I am away from home. It's failty simple once you get that cover off the fly wheel.
Take the starter (or the lower flywheel cover) off and jam a screwdriver in the teeth of the flywheel. This is what prevents the crank from moving. If that doesn't work, see if a local shop has the crank pulley holder thingy to rent. You also might want to use impact sockets as opposed to regular, and use a torque bar.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jefe »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My problem is this. HAYNES manual SUCKS *****!!!!!
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes it does, get a Helms.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jefe »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My problem is this. HAYNES manual SUCKS *****!!!!!
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes it does, get a Helms.
get the crank pulley thingy me jiggy. It's free at autozone, kragen, pepboys ect. They charge you a deposit when you rent it and give you a full refund when you bring it back. Use your credit card and no money out of pocket! 

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From: Southern, CA, USA
Yo. Thanks Eddy. I finally found the flywheel after reading what you said. Stuck a hefty screw driver in there and that really stops anything from turning. That's definately the way to go.
Now my problem is I have broken 3 ratchets in the past 2 nights crankin on that damn crank bolt. That thing is really torqued on there....what sucks even worse is that I had it off about 8 months ago. Oh well.
Back to Sears I go to search for some more tools.
Thanks again. - jefé
Now my problem is I have broken 3 ratchets in the past 2 nights crankin on that damn crank bolt. That thing is really torqued on there....what sucks even worse is that I had it off about 8 months ago. Oh well.
Back to Sears I go to search for some more tools.
Thanks again. - jefé
First off **** SEARS! lol they just laid me off mo - fo's but you dident search hard enough you should look under archived content as well cause then you would of found my wonderfull how to artical on how to do this 
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=898904
Theres a specialty tool you need to get that thing off i HIGHLY recomend it!!!
The screw driver is a low budget style of doing things but you run the risk of A-Ruining your tools, B-messing up the teeth on the flywheel C-Insert something smart here.
Id get the tool, and apply some anti-sieze when putting it back in
Modified by nocternaldragon at 12:40 AM 8/12/2004
Modified by nocternaldragon at 12:41 AM 8/12/2004

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=898904
Theres a specialty tool you need to get that thing off i HIGHLY recomend it!!!
The screw driver is a low budget style of doing things but you run the risk of A-Ruining your tools, B-messing up the teeth on the flywheel C-Insert something smart here.
Id get the tool, and apply some anti-sieze when putting it back in
Modified by nocternaldragon at 12:40 AM 8/12/2004
Modified by nocternaldragon at 12:41 AM 8/12/2004
Thread Starter
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From: Southern, CA, USA
yo. the link you posted didnt work.
can you explain to me how the tool works?
one reason I don't have it is because the work I'm doing to change the water pump came up unexpected and I don't have a whole lot of time. But I like the idea of checking with Kragen to see if I can rent one. And you are saying that this tool replaces the need for anything else? But you still have to have the tools to break the damn bolt loose, right?
can you explain to me how the tool works?
one reason I don't have it is because the work I'm doing to change the water pump came up unexpected and I don't have a whole lot of time. But I like the idea of checking with Kragen to see if I can rent one. And you are saying that this tool replaces the need for anything else? But you still have to have the tools to break the damn bolt loose, right?
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https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=898904
there pm'ed him and this is what it was.
there pm'ed him and this is what it was.
Basically what the tool does is fit inside the Harmonic Damper Pulley (What your trying to take off) you then use a breaker bar on the tool and anther one on the bolt with a LONG *** cheater bar, i personally used one that was ohhhhh 5ft long i believe and litterly jumped on it a few times, Bolt came right out along with my back with the shock wave the bolt made when it finally broke lose! lol True story my back hurt like hell for a weak afterwords 
This is the tool ALSO available to rent at most auto part stores if the dumbass behind the counter knows what your talking about! (Dident here)
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog...l=all

This is the tool ALSO available to rent at most auto part stores if the dumbass behind the counter knows what your talking about! (Dident here)
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog...l=all
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From: Southern, CA, USA
thanks homie. I plan on searching around town tomorrow to see if I can find one of those things.
So, the way you were doing it, the extension for the 17mm socket comes out of the wheel well past the brakes and ****, right??
I took the motor mount out of the driver side, and came up thru the engine with a 2 ft pipe attached to a ratchet. I was thinking the less extensions it had on it, the better.
the reason i say this is because 8 months ago, i was going thru the same thing, only my dad lived nearby and he had an air tank with impact wrenches...so we were using an impact wrench with socket and about a 5 inch extension on it. pounded on it for hours and nothing. we dropped the engine down a bit enough for us to take off the extension and just use the socket on the impact wrench, and BAM! off in 2 seconds.
If I only wouldnt have moved out to Cali, I could still have access to the air tools.....ahhhh....the sacrifices we make.
thanks. ill let you know how it turns out if i find that tool.
So, the way you were doing it, the extension for the 17mm socket comes out of the wheel well past the brakes and ****, right??
I took the motor mount out of the driver side, and came up thru the engine with a 2 ft pipe attached to a ratchet. I was thinking the less extensions it had on it, the better.
the reason i say this is because 8 months ago, i was going thru the same thing, only my dad lived nearby and he had an air tank with impact wrenches...so we were using an impact wrench with socket and about a 5 inch extension on it. pounded on it for hours and nothing. we dropped the engine down a bit enough for us to take off the extension and just use the socket on the impact wrench, and BAM! off in 2 seconds.
If I only wouldnt have moved out to Cali, I could still have access to the air tools.....ahhhh....the sacrifices we make.
thanks. ill let you know how it turns out if i find that tool.
Hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm CAli you lucky sob lol i would love to move there! lol
As for the extension question: The longer the extension the more power you lose while using the extension. So if possible get a deep socket directly to the breaker bar. it ussually helps to drop the engine a bit. Unfortunetly i dident do this and did stick the socket out past the fender and had a support under the extension so it would sit straight while i was jumping on it. you could also try just aiming the breaker bar up tho the engine bay with the mount out of the way and try that just be carefull not to mess something up with it does break free.....
As for the extension question: The longer the extension the more power you lose while using the extension. So if possible get a deep socket directly to the breaker bar. it ussually helps to drop the engine a bit. Unfortunetly i dident do this and did stick the socket out past the fender and had a support under the extension so it would sit straight while i was jumping on it. you could also try just aiming the breaker bar up tho the engine bay with the mount out of the way and try that just be carefull not to mess something up with it does break free.....
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From: Southern, CA, USA
hehe. 4 months ago I was living in TN. Now I sit in my new pad that's a block and half from the beach. Gotta love it.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jefe »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I took the motor mount out of the driver side, and came up thru the engine with a 2 ft pipe attached to a ratchet. </TD></TR></TABLE>
You serious? using a RATCHET? no no.. you need to use a 1/2 braker bar with a Impact socket.
NO wonder you broke a few off
I took the motor mount out of the driver side, and came up thru the engine with a 2 ft pipe attached to a ratchet. </TD></TR></TABLE>
You serious? using a RATCHET? no no.. you need to use a 1/2 braker bar with a Impact socket.
NO wonder you broke a few off
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