i just bought my integra gs-R like a week ago, and i want to know what oil do i need to use on my b18c1?? my car need oil real bead, so please respond *** quick as possible, tell me the brand and what type


thanks in advance

 

brand new GSR or used?...if brand new or rebuild, use castrol non synthetic oil 10-30, or 5-30(if u want). if it is a use and depending on ur mileage ask autozone or kragen for Mobil 1 synthetic oil, for best result u can do an oil flush...and use mobil1 synthetic....

synthetic oils are lighter, smaller, friction reduction, and long lasting
normal non synthetic is normal that is it

 

mobil 1

5 a quart

 

hey wuz up pepz, yeah im here but i dont have permission to use intant messege or something like thatit said on my screen,

its a 95 integra gsr is used hehe the car has like 218k, but the motor has like 130k, so what would u use??

please tell me the numbers like synthetic 5-10 or whatever please...

 

mobil 1 10w-30

 

wal-mart super tech oil

10-40 + bars stop leak

i love blow-by

 

hey rob tec thanks for your help, and for everybody help, but now that i know what i nedded to know, what do u have on your car, that you have 180whp?? can you tell me your set up?? i just bought mine, andi ts pretty fast, but i want to make it faster hehe,, and by the way? do you know whao much horse power does an integra gsr stock have? and homany whp? have stock??

 

not very much, they are slow as *****. you must be used to an extremely slow car rather than a pretty slow one

 

It's never too late to use synthetic....

This is my 2 cents for you bro:
Since you have 130K on your engine and you live in a really hot area of the US, I would recommend 10w30. And I suggest Mobil1 SuperSyn 10w30, which in short is Mobil1 synthetic.

I know people might chime in and say that its bad for your seals, blah blah... I have collected numerous information to back up my suggestions.

Drive around for several hundred to a thousand miles or so. If you notice that you lose oil more than half (measuring from the dipstick, from the top dot to the lower dot), then it could indicate a very bad leak somewhere. This is your chance to diagnose your motor.

This is how I usually did mine... drive around normally and then turn the car off, let it cool a little bit. Check for oil leaks around the valve cover and especially around the Cam plug (near the distributor). If could also be a bad oil cap, etc. And if no oil is found under the engine bay, you can then proceed and jack up the car and check around the oil pan for leaks.

If there is still no oil to be found, the seals inside your motor are shot, meaning they are really worn out and its causing you to burn more oil than it should.

For most high-revving honda engines, it is normal to burn SOME oil and a little more if you drive pretty hard, whether it be just the streets, highway, autoX and/or strip.


And just for ***** and giggles, I have 138,xxx miles on my 95 GSR... I replaced my valve cover gasket, a few valve cover rubber washers, re-did it all with honda-bond as it should....changed cam plug... and no leaks what so ever.

Oh Mobil1 10w30 synthetic is what I use all year around.

-NRg

 

yeah i know, i use to drive a 91 prelude si, and it was automatic, so now that i got this one i think is fast, but anyways, hehe how can i make my car 180 whp?? without nos or turbo?? right now i just have a aem intake, and it looks like some spoon headres but im not sure thats what my friend told me, so what can i do to it?? please thanks..

 

hey nightrider gsr, thanks for your advise, as you can tell im bearly getin in into this car stuff, but today i took my car to lower it 2 inches, and while they were doing that, i notice that i had a small oil leak underneath the engine, i cannot really tell you were because i dont know nothing, but i saw an oil leak, my homie said that it was to dark to bee transission oil, so its motor oil, but tomorrow im going to a shop and tell them to check my ****, cause i dont want it to get fucked hehe

thanks alot bro

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by yeegsr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">brand new GSR or used?...if brand new or rebuild, use castrol non synthetic oil 10-30, or 5-30(if u want). if it is a use and depending on ur mileage ask autozone or kragen for Mobil 1 synthetic oil, for best result u can do an oil flush...and use mobil1 synthetic....

synthetic oils are lighter, smaller, friction reduction, and long lasting
normal non synthetic is normal that is it</TD></TR></TABLE>

so whats the difference between 10-30 and 5-30??

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IVI &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">mobil 1

5 a quart </TD></TR></TABLE>
the best place ive seen to get it is wal-mart...$4.28 for the individual quarts or you can buy a 5-quart jug for $19. they sell cases of the individual quarts for even cheaper per quart (i think a 12-pack is $28) but only in 10W30

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b18punk &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so whats the difference between 10-30 and 5-30??</TD></TR></TABLE>

they're different weights. one is a bit thinner than the other. dual weight oil's are measured at hot temps and cold temps to tell what specific weight they are at during those temps. the "w" in "10w-30" stands for the cold measurement (easily remembered by thinking w=winter), because the oil at some 200 odd degrees (i forget the actual hot measurement) is 10 and the cold measurment (i think 32 degrees) is 30... its thicker when its cold.

 

Aren't there enough oil threads in this forum? Id expect all you guys to be oil experts by now.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 3.504 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">... the "w" in "10w-30" stands for the cold measurement (easily remembered by thinking w=winter)</TD></TR></TABLE>Right. I don't remember which 2 temperatures, 25 years ago it was 0F & 212F.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 3.504 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">... because the oil at some 200 odd degrees (i forget the actual hot measurement) is 10 and the cold measurment (i think 32 degrees) is 30... its thicker when its cold.</TD></TR></TABLE>Wrong. The first spec is 10w, meaning when it's cold it acts like a 10-weight oil. The 2nd spec is 30, meaning it's a 30-weight oil when it's hot.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bl@sterVT &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
the best place ive seen to get it is wal-mart...$4.28 for the individual quarts or you can buy a 5-quart jug for $19. they sell cases of the individual quarts for even cheaper per quart (i think a 12-pack is $28) but only in 10W30</TD></TR></TABLE>

thanks, ill look into that. i think i looked before but the walmart over here it was just about the same price.

 

last saturday it made 193 whp..but on a <U>mustang dyno</U>

i am guesing it should be in the mid 170s on a dynojet


b18c1 engine with iceman intake,dc sports 4-1 header,skunk 2 im.,usdm p73 pistons,3 angle valve job,.020 milled head,afpr and aem cam gears.