Well..today went very well...until the end! Damn it...should I really be rebuilding an engine? I dont know if Im capable Ok its not bad but still a big step back.

I started off by instaling all the rod bearings and plastigauging them. I got .015-.016 on all 4 rods, which is perfect.
I then took the crank back out, cleaned up all the surfaces of the crank and all the bearings of plastigauge and reinstalled everything with lots and lots of assembly lube. Installed the thrust bearings and then the girdle and torqued it all down.
Next came the right side cover (and new main seal) and then the new oil pump.
After wards i put the oil baffle on and the oil pickup.

So the bottom end was pretty much done..all that is really left on the block is the water pump and the timing belt tensioner...and of course the oil pan.

So...what did I do wrong youre wondering? Well, I realized that I I didnt check the ring end gap for all the rings! I used ONE set of rings..and placed them in each cylinder (yes, all 4) and checked the gap of the smae rings! What in the world I was thinking I have NO idea! Its actually kinda funny now when I think about it.
Im sure they are probably all correct, but better safe then sorry.
So now I have to take the pickup off, baffle, girdle, and undo all 4 rod caps and pull the pistons abck out and take the top and second rings off and measure the gaps.

Oh well..no harm done..Ill just lose an hour or two..but its all a learning experiance.

 

You're doing everything by yourself?! Would you mind pointing me towards any research material you used before tackling the job?

 

Well keep up the good work. You know people like me are keeping a really close eye on this whole rebuild.

art

 

thats kind of funny...im on about the ninth day..but it isnt my fault...its the machine shop my head is at...lol. That is what happens when you bend all 8 exhaust valves...he also honed my block and balanced my bottom end. I put in JDM ITR pistons(spoon ones)...shotpeened my rods(was gonna use eagles, but they pin was different) and spoon headgasket(2 piece). Keep us updated....cool to know that some other guy across the country is doing the same **** himself....seems like a lot of kids into hondas just fork over cash for people to make their car fast...I like do it yourselfers...

 

I am doing all the labor myself, but I am having some advice given to me by a friend's dad who has knows all about this stuff. He's never rebuild a Honda engine either though....so we're both learning.
Im using the Helm's and the Haynes manuals. I really really REALLY suggest buying both! The Helm's has all the accurate torque measurments and some better drawings of the parts and whatnot, but the Haynes is much more user friendly.
It seems that with the Helms they expect you to just know alot of things already.
One nice thing I found about the Haynes was last night, they had a "Re-assembly Sequence" chart which tells you which part goes when...like Pistons, Crank, oil pump, main seal cover, etc etc...it really helps out.

 

I've never been referred to a Hayne's manual, but it wouldn't hurt to have two references, I guess. Reassembly sequences: Just what I need!

 

Just wondering if you checked the stretch on the rod bolts...

I forgot to do that and had to take the girdle off and tigthen them all. Its an inportant step, but I assume you did it.

 

Actually I didnt check the stretch. The instructions that came with teh ARP rod bolts specifically say that UNLESS you use the supplied moly lube, then you have to use the stretch method. If you use their moly lube, you dont have to.