Alright, I decided I needed some new front brake pads ('88 DX CRX). So, being the cheap *** that I am, I went for the $14 pads. I also had Kragen turn the rotors. So, new brake pads and resurfaced rotors. The install went smooth and everything seems to be in order.

When I gently apply the brakes, there is a slight wobble felt in the brake pedal and in the steering wheel. When I apply the brakes more firmly the shaking stops. It does not pull to one side or the other when I apply the brakes.

I went on the freeway today, and applied the brakes going about 60mph+, and it wobbled like all hell (felt in brake pedal and steering wheel)! When depressing the brakes firmly the wobble quickly disappeared.

I know I have bad axles/joints or whatnot. I have a knocking/clicking noise when I turn left or right AND apply some throttle. No click or knock when no throttle is applied.

My brakes never caused shaking before the job, and the axle problem was there at that time. So my question is: Would new brakes do this? Would the axles + new "stopping power" of the new brakes/rotors cause this? I am hoping that Kragen did a decent job on my rotors so they shouldn't be warped.

Any experience or help would be nice. Thanks.

 

did you torque all your lugnuts to the proper torque of 80 ft/lbs?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crxgator &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">did you torque all your lugnuts to the proper torque of 80 ft/lbs?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Would "over-torque" cause this? I've been meaning to invest in a decent torque wrench for some time now. :: on me!

EDIT: Holy cRAp! I never knew how to get that hammer symbol to rear it's head. I'll be damned.

 

well if its uneven torque which it is (since they all arent the same because of no torque wrench ), it could cause it to warp easier from the different hot/cold spots that will be created later on from driving/braking...

did the wobble happen imeddiatly after you installed it...like a block away, or did this happen after a while of driving?

 

The wobble happened immediately. Of course, when I first drove it from the jackstands, it was parking lot driving, so I was going slow and the wobble was very slight, and mostly felt in the brake pedal.

So, it could be the improper torque of the wheels? If so, would it be safe to say I can loosen the bolts and re-torque them to correct specs without any significant/permanent damage? I've driven about 25-30 miles since the install.

 

ok, then it wouldnt be warped...how did you hold the rotor on while you were bolting on the caliper?

did you use brake pad clips as well?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crxgator &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok, then it wouldnt be warped...how did you hold the rotor on while you were bolting on the caliper?

did you use brake pad clips as well?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I actually bolted down the piece that holds the pads and rotor in place (with pads installed) then I installed the caliper.

I did use brake pad clips, however, I don't have brake pad shims installed on the passanger side. I'm not sure that would be much of a problem. I know there is probably a million things/variables that could be the cause of this.

If I have to, I'll disassemble everything and re-torque the whole assembly.

 

ok before you can put on the caliper bracket, you have to hold the rotor down so it doesnt go on crooked...its held on by two screws, or what i did was tighten two lug nuts onto it, then put on the caliper bracket and tighten the bolts to that...then i put on the pads and made sure they were in securley, then i put on the caliper...

try it over again, if its doing the same thing, maybe they cut the rotor wrong :S...

how much was cutting? autozone has rotors for like 15 a piece...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crxgator &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok before you can put on the caliper bracket, you have to hold the rotor down so it doesnt go on crooked...its held on by two screws, or what i did was tighten two lug nuts onto it, then put on the caliper bracket and tighten the bolts to that...then i put on the pads and made sure they were in securley, then i put on the caliper...

try it over again, if its doing the same thing, maybe they cut the rotor wrong :S...

how much was cutting? autozone has rotors for like 15 a piece... </TD></TR></TABLE>


I payed $10 ea. for the cut . I'll break it down tomorrow and reinstall them with your method and much more care. Not sure if I should rule out the axles, but we'll see. Thanks for the help.

 

good luck, and find/borrow a torque wrench for the day...it helps...

yes, im a torque-spec ***...

 

I could be totally off the wall, but I always thought that you had to re grind the rotors on the car on a honda. Thats what I have always been told, but I have never done either. I always just get new rotors
Ryan