I was driving, and got to about 6200 (stock LS) and the needle started bouncing so I came to the conclusion that my RPM guage was off by 1000... is there any way to fix this? or no?

 

I wouldn't assume anything. I'd go buy or rent another tach at the store to verify the RPM reading before assuming the gauge is off. After that you could test the RPM gauge.

 

I kno the guage is off, i just told you what i did to test it. It is the stock tach in the stock guage cluster, and before my redline was 7200, now when it gets to 6200 the needle bounces. Wouldnt that mean that its 1000 off? I can tell when im driving my car as well, it feels like im at 3500 but the cluster will only be reading 2500

 

what does it idle at? is the needle resting on the pin?

 

idles at nothing lol... its weird, yes the needle is resting on the pin

 

ne one?

 

take the plastic cover off and take the needle off and adjust it.

 

what do u mean by "adjust it" how would I even know?

 

get a haynes or chiltons manual... im sure they exsplain it in there. it cant be that hard.

 

lol what the hell are those?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jweezy225 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what do u mean by "adjust it" how would I even know?</TD></TR></TABLE>

what i meant by adjusting it is by taking the needle off while your motor is off. usually the needle is resting on the pin like thingy when your motor is off, so what you want to do is push the needle back on while it's lined up with the pin. slowly push it all the way back on while keeping the needle above the pin. start your car to see if everything is okay. if not, take it off and try again till perfect.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by shermanyang &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

so what you want to do is push the needle back on while it's lined up with the pin. slowly push it all the way back on while keeping the needle above the pin</TD></TR></TABLE>

lol you lost me right there... and the needle doesnt come out I tried taking it out once before unless its just a bitch to get out and i dont want to break it

 

yeah the needle is a bitch to take off. more than likely you'll have to use a needle nose plier to take it off by carefully pulling it off...and i mean CAREFULLY. if you rush and are careless, you'll bust it right off.

 

so i take it off and put it back on and that solves the problem? or should

 

hmm...actually before you even do that...when you're at idle...is the needle in the right place or is it sitting at 0? if at idle it's in the right place then i don't think that adjusting the needle will help.

 

at idle it sits on the needle like its not even idling... and when i give it gas, like .5 seconds later it moves... its like the needle is delayed and i already checked and its not sticking to the pin or any thing

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jweezy225 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">lol what the hell are those? </TD></TR></TABLE>


Those are service manuals for your car.......

 

This thread show you how to remove the needle.

https://honda-tech.com/zero...age=1

This is how you want to go about correcting the tach:
1) warm up you car.
2) engine off, remove the cluster and the clear bezel. cluster still plugged in.
3) remove the needle off the tach.
4) start the car and since it's still warm push it on to line up to what ever your car is suppose to idle at. ~700-800rpms
5) reassemble.

Protip: buy an aftermarket tach at pepboys hook it up and set you stock tach to what ever it reads then return the aftermarket tack to pepboys for a refund.

 

doesn't sound too bad, i'll try that