Changing Thermostat....hard or easy?
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 66
Likes: 0
From: san jose, ca, usa
Changing Thermostat....hard or easy?
The temp gauge in my gf 98 LS doesnt move.... it just sits below C the whole time. I believe that it is the thermostat that I need to replace... I was just wondering if it is a hard task to do... any advice would be helpful... thanks... !!!
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 874
Likes: 0
From: Deerfield Beach, FL, USA
Re: Changing Thermostat....hard or easy? (00siALLmotor)
It's not really hard to replace, it's just somewhat hard to get to if you don't have all the right tools. Once you get the housing off, you pretty much just drop the new one in place and replace the housing. I would say it could be done in under an hour. (of course it took me longer than that to do it 
)
)
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 2,478
Likes: 1
Re: Changing Thermostat....hard or easy? (00siALLmotor)
easy -
thanks to jdmlyfestyle for a writeup
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=876298
also a diagram of the parts :
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=917297
thanks to jdmlyfestyle for a writeup
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=876298
also a diagram of the parts :
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=917297
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 747
Likes: 0
From: The City That Reads
Re: Changing Thermostat....hard or easy? (ShagginJet)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ShagginJet »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">would an oem thermo really make that much of a difference??</TD></TR></TABLE>
well if his is not working properly, which it sounds like it is not, then yes it will make a difference!
well if his is not working properly, which it sounds like it is not, then yes it will make a difference!
Trending Topics
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 2,799
Likes: 0
Re: (dVeLoPe)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dVeLoPe »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I took off my housing and I don't have a thermo in there just a gutted housing. What are the effects of using it without a thermo. and or why should I invest in one.</TD></TR></TABLE>
well it depends on which housing you took off, theres two hoses, and upper rad hose, closest to the rad. then if you look depper in, below your dizzy cap, you'll see another hose/housing, and thats what you want.
theres two bolts i believe. take off them and be careful cuz fluid might be hot depending on how long you waited to do this after you drove your car. swap out thermo's and then put everything back. (note: please be careful on threading these bolts back on to not strip any threads as this bolt's directly up to the block. and if you strip it, your phuked and you'll have to rethread it again.)
also if you took off the upper rad. hose, its not round its more of a rectangle, theres a rubber seal around it, might need to replace it since you broke the seal. its some kind of seal you buy in a tube. you squeeze it around the edges and apply back onto block, then bolt down.
(note2: might be alot easer to remove the plug wires from the dizzy cap and remove the intake system, just to give you more room. i also have pics of the right housing you are supposed to be workin on, just let me know, its for a DA chassis but same engine.)
good luck bro
well it depends on which housing you took off, theres two hoses, and upper rad hose, closest to the rad. then if you look depper in, below your dizzy cap, you'll see another hose/housing, and thats what you want.
theres two bolts i believe. take off them and be careful cuz fluid might be hot depending on how long you waited to do this after you drove your car. swap out thermo's and then put everything back. (note: please be careful on threading these bolts back on to not strip any threads as this bolt's directly up to the block. and if you strip it, your phuked and you'll have to rethread it again.)
also if you took off the upper rad. hose, its not round its more of a rectangle, theres a rubber seal around it, might need to replace it since you broke the seal. its some kind of seal you buy in a tube. you squeeze it around the edges and apply back onto block, then bolt down.
(note2: might be alot easer to remove the plug wires from the dizzy cap and remove the intake system, just to give you more room. i also have pics of the right housing you are supposed to be workin on, just let me know, its for a DA chassis but same engine.)
good luck bro
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 470
Likes: 0
From: richmond, va
Re: (stareatsun)
just did mine not too long ago.....its really easy as long as you have the tools to get the housing off.and pop the new one in with the little thing pointing towards the top...put on the new gasket and your done...hope this helps
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,063
Likes: 59
From: Nowhere and Everywhere
Re: (dVeLoPe)
Originally Posted by dVeLoPe
I took off my housing and I don't have a thermo in there just a gutted housing. What are the effects of using it without a thermo. and or why should I invest in one.
I would also recommend going ahead and flushing the entire cooling system, since you have to drain quite a bit of coolant when you remove the thermostat housing. Here is the proper procedure that I wrote up some time ago:
Originally Posted by PatrickGSR94
First drain the coolant from the radiator thru the drain plug, then disconnect the lower radiator hose from the radiator to let coolant drain out of there. Put the radiator hose back on.
Next locate the coolant drain bolt on the engine block. On B and D series engines it's behind the exhaust manifold/header, slighly towards the tranny end of the block. It's a BIG bolt, 19mm I believe, hard to miss. Remove that. Have a large container ready, because it will come GUSHING out. After it finishes draining, replace the bolt.
Now comes the tricky part. Remove the lower radiator hose and coolant temp sensor from the thermostat housing and then remove the housing w/ the thermostat. One of the housing bolts is pretty difficult to get to, so have some wrenches or a swivel socket joint handy (I can't remember what I used). Put the housing back in w/o the thermostat and reconnect the lower hose.
Now remove the upper radiator hose from the radiator and point it towards your drain bucket. Stick the garden hose into the top of the radiator where the upper hose connects and run the water. The remaining coolant in the block will be flushed out through the upper radiator hose. Keep the water running until the fluid coming out of the upper hose is clear.
Reinstall the thermostat and coolant temp sensor and all hoses etc. Fill the radiator w/ a 50/50 mixture of coolant and water (Honda pre-mixed, or Prestone and distilled water, do NOT use Xerex or Peak as it contains silicates which can damage the radiator). You will have to pour it in SLOWLY as it tends to bubble up and spurt out of the filler hole while you pour it in.
Once the coolant reaches the base of the filler neck, run the engine with the heater slider set to HOT. Continue to run the engine until it fully warms up and the radiator fan comes on. The upper radiator hose will also become hot. After this the coolant level in the radiator should have dropped since the thermostat opens and allows coolant into the block and the heater core. Shut off the engine, and continue to fill the radiator until it get to the base of the filler neck.
Locate the bleed bolt where the upper radiator hose attaches to the cylinder head. Loosen this bolt and let the coolant flow out until it flows out steady w/o bubbles. Squeeze the upper radiator hose to help get any remaining air out of the system. Continue squeezing the upper hose until no more bubbles come up at the base of the filler neck, and continue to add coolant as necessary to keep the level at the base of the filler neck.
Remove and wash out the coolant overflow tank, fill it to the proper level, and you're done!
Next locate the coolant drain bolt on the engine block. On B and D series engines it's behind the exhaust manifold/header, slighly towards the tranny end of the block. It's a BIG bolt, 19mm I believe, hard to miss. Remove that. Have a large container ready, because it will come GUSHING out. After it finishes draining, replace the bolt.
Now comes the tricky part. Remove the lower radiator hose and coolant temp sensor from the thermostat housing and then remove the housing w/ the thermostat. One of the housing bolts is pretty difficult to get to, so have some wrenches or a swivel socket joint handy (I can't remember what I used). Put the housing back in w/o the thermostat and reconnect the lower hose.
Now remove the upper radiator hose from the radiator and point it towards your drain bucket. Stick the garden hose into the top of the radiator where the upper hose connects and run the water. The remaining coolant in the block will be flushed out through the upper radiator hose. Keep the water running until the fluid coming out of the upper hose is clear.
Reinstall the thermostat and coolant temp sensor and all hoses etc. Fill the radiator w/ a 50/50 mixture of coolant and water (Honda pre-mixed, or Prestone and distilled water, do NOT use Xerex or Peak as it contains silicates which can damage the radiator). You will have to pour it in SLOWLY as it tends to bubble up and spurt out of the filler hole while you pour it in.
Once the coolant reaches the base of the filler neck, run the engine with the heater slider set to HOT. Continue to run the engine until it fully warms up and the radiator fan comes on. The upper radiator hose will also become hot. After this the coolant level in the radiator should have dropped since the thermostat opens and allows coolant into the block and the heater core. Shut off the engine, and continue to fill the radiator until it get to the base of the filler neck.
Locate the bleed bolt where the upper radiator hose attaches to the cylinder head. Loosen this bolt and let the coolant flow out until it flows out steady w/o bubbles. Squeeze the upper radiator hose to help get any remaining air out of the system. Continue squeezing the upper hose until no more bubbles come up at the base of the filler neck, and continue to add coolant as necessary to keep the level at the base of the filler neck.
Remove and wash out the coolant overflow tank, fill it to the proper level, and you're done!
Honda-Tech Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 5,071
Likes: 1
From: ainrofilac, Anti Stickers
Re: Changing Thermostat....hard or easy? (IVI)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IVI »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">easy -
thanks to jdmlyfestyle for a writeup
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=876298
also a diagram of the parts :
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=917297</TD></TR></TABLE>
thanks. Thats a nice write up
thanks to jdmlyfestyle for a writeup
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=876298
also a diagram of the parts :
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=917297</TD></TR></TABLE>
thanks. Thats a nice write up
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
JimRaynor90
Tech / Misc
2
Aug 13, 2014 07:23 PM
fdjizm
Honda Civic / Del Sol (1992 - 2000)
12
Dec 6, 2006 01:29 PM
