SO FAR... the manifold fits with the IACV in its intended position on the back of the manifold, however the IACV I used has the electrical plug pointing straight down as opposed to the stock H22 IACV which has a 45 degree angle to it. There are 2 (bolts) that are extended from the firewall that need to be cut. This brings me to the next modification... The barometric/Map sensor box on the firewall needs to shed its plastic and some of the frame needs to be cut to clear any type of 3" intake piping. The 3" AEM intake I am running is just short to fit without the piping rubbing on the inner wheelwell.
As far as modifications to the Manifold... Portmatching is a must to those running a 65mm+ throttle body. I am running an Erick's 70mm tb. The fuel rail is another trick. I had to use some aluminum tubing as "spacers" to get the proper clearance for my 440cc injectors. I doubt there will be any issues with stock injectors.

Dynoes coming soon.

Driving.... SUCKS ***! at least as far as throttle response compared to the euro r manifold I was running. This could be due to the new airflow that the engine is getting. Tunning with the hondata will show wether or not the manifold works (in my case).




Modified by 2point6 at 11:07 PM 8/9/2004

 

there are also a couple of brackets on the drivers side that needed to be removed from 2point6's car. the manifold is alot bigger than the euro r and stock manifold. if used in a prelude chassis you may need to relocate the iacv but it fits in the stock location in the accord.

 

lol... nobody cares.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2point6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">lol... nobody cares. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah, we just care about dyno!

 

I am trying to get it done today! I know that is all what matters here.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2point6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> I know that is all what matters here. </TD></TR></TABLE>I love u.

 

wanna see dyno! wanna see dyno! wanna see dyno!

 

i love you to

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2point6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I am trying to get it done today! I know that is all what matters here. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Please hurry, I have no patience for this.

I am curious to see how it does on a built motor.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2point6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">lol... nobody cares. </TD></TR></TABLE>

You are the best.

Please post your progress. If not here, at least on collectiveracing. Thanks.

 

Scott:

I am anxious to see some dyno data!!!!!!!!!! Let us know as soon as you get it

 

I'd like to see results too.

 

If it doesn't work, you've got the credz to tell them to go.....

 

WHAT A LET DOWN.... I only spent 2 hrs on the Dyno to make less power. I made 234.9 whp and 175.3 tq. The fuel was good about 13.4ish and did not seem to make any difference what adjustments were made to the hondata. There were a few places the engine went lean over the euro r, but adding fuel only made minor changes... My conclusion is this: So far the manifold doesn't work well in my set-up either due to cam profile or some other factor. The engine is healthy, but I noticed it lost a lot right off the bat. It did. TQ was way down (below 3000 rpm) almost 20ftlbs. Fuel changes in this area were minor with little or no change reflecting on the dyno. Maybe more time spent could have yeilded more gains, but so far they are nowhere to be found.

 

Damn. Sorry to hear that Scott.

 

Dam, that sucks. Do you think the runners are too long for your build? You should cut it down and shorten the runners and see how it works.

 

What is your setup? Something seems wrong and contradict to the other dynos we've seen.

 

Seems to contradict? It does contradict... but how many dynoes have you really seen? Especially on a "built" engine... What possible spec could I give you about my set-up that would explain the loss I have now... Tuning is the key, I am sure, but more time needs to be spent.

 

Can you post the dyno? Do you think that the im is tuned for too higha rpm and needs a higher idle rpm due to the amount of air coming in?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by racerx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Can you post the dyno? Do you think that the im is tuned for too higha rpm and needs a higher idle rpm due to the amount of air coming in?</TD></TR></TABLE>

The dyno sheets were worthless IMO... We noticed that A/F ratios were in the low 12's at idle and were still rich until vtec engaged. A few places it went lean but no gains were made except for minor smoothing. It is possible that my engine (since it is stroked) could have too fast piston speeds to utilize the larger runners.... meaning that they are overkill. However, I need to figure this out matmatically because it doesn't make sense yet. A cam adjustment was not made and this could affect intake charge velocity... who knows. The only change made was the manifold...

 

The actual dyno's we have seen are from SKUNK2! Are you going to believe everything you see from them? I don't think the manifold is tuned for higher rpms than what 2point6 is spinning. They didn't make the manifold for some 8500+ rpm H22. They made it for a 7500-8000 rpm engine with their cams. If anything, the runners are too long for his motor.

2point6 - What is the inside length of the Skunk2 runner and what is the Euro-R length? I'm talking stick a ruller up the runner and measure from the flange to where it enters the plennum.

 

I will have to measure the runners on Monday. I am only reving this engine to 7900 RPM.

 

Sounds good.

At 7900 you should have made power vs the Euro-R then since it seems this manifold would be tuned to make peak power around there. But like you said, maybe it has to do with you setup being stroked.

 

I have a 91 accord wagon in which I wanted to get the Skunk2 intake manifold for my H22, now that I know it fits. I am also wanted to go all motor in which I want to target 230-250whp. My question is what all did you do to get your specs.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by flight50 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have a 91 accord wagon in which I wanted to get the Skunk2 intake manifold for my H22, now that I know it fits. I am also wanted to go all motor in which I want to target 230-250whp. My question is what all did you do to get your specs.</TD></TR></TABLE>

You will need lots of research, about 10 grand, and a great tuner to get those numbers. Start searching now.

2point6:

Very disappointing. Thanks for all the info. When you get a chance, please post your math on the stroker vs. longer runners.