Hey....I got a automatic 97 accord and i'm sick of driving it cuz it's a automatic.....i wanna swap and put a manual 5 speed in...the engine is an F22B1...how much will the whole swap cost and where can i get the swap at??

 

More then it is worth. Consider a full motor/tranny swap for the $$$.

 

Just to give you an idea of cost, a shop here charges $1100 for the labor to do an auto to manual tranny swap and $1350 for a full engine/tranny swap with conversion (parts not included). I'm in the same boat as you with an automatic and I'd rather save and do everything at once (H22 swap).

 

Automatic to 5 Speed Conversion By: bjaccord and ixiblindixiEdited extensively by: Nathan Morris Parts List 1. 5 speed transmission (F22, F23, H22, H23) 2. 5 speed starter (90-02 Accord 92-02 Prelude) 3. 5 speed shifter assembly w/ shifter cables (90-97 Accord 92-96 Prelude) 4. 5 speed drivers side axle (your year accord, but from 5-spd version) 5. 5 speed intermediate shaft (your year accord, but from 5-spd version) 6. 5 speed clutch pedal assembly (90-97 Accord 92-96 Prelude) 7. 5 speed brake pedal arm (90-97 Accord 92-96 Prelude) 8. Clutch master cylinder w/ reservoir (90-97 Accord 92-96 Prelude) 9. Clutch line from Clutch master cylinder to clutch dampener (90-97 Accord 92-96 Prelude) 10. Clutch dampener assembly (90-97 Accord 92-96 Prelude) 11. Clutch line from Clutch dampener to 5 speed transmission (90-97 Accord 92-96 Prelude) 12. Clutch line from 5 speed transmission to slave cylinder (90-97 Accord 92-96 Prelude) 13. Slave cylinder (90-97 Accord 92-96 Prelude) 14. Clutch (90-02 Accord 92-01 Prelude) 15. Flywheel (90-02 Accord 92-01 Prelude) 16. 5 speed mount (Your year, 5-spd version) 17. 5 speed mount bracket (go to honda - tell them to look for the bracket that is welded on the car - part is S.O.P and costs 15-25.00) (see notes) 18. MIG WELDER (see notes) 19. BOLTS: 8 Flywheel Bolts, 6 Pressure Plate Bolts, 3 Intermediate Shaft Bolts, 1 Long transmission Bolt 20. Recommended: HELMS Service Manual (www.helminc.com) Instructions First of all, Disconnect the battery. Remove it, the battery tray and the air intake to gain working room. (Distributor helps also) Raise the front of the car up in the air, support it on jack stands and remove the front wheels. Drain auto transmission fluid. Remove the axle nut (36mm). (note: this nut is at 180 lb-ft, the best way to remove the bolt is to put an extension pipe on the socket wrench you are using, works great, have someone stomp on the brakes as you loosen it) Remove the lower ball joint cotter pin and nut (17mm) on both sides. Take a floor jack and start to raise the car up on the lower knuckle so the ball joint pops out. When it does, remove the axles. To pry the axles from the transmission, insert a decent size flat head screwdriver in-between the axle and the transmission, then just pop it. It will pop out of socket. At this point you can pull it out the rest of the way. Be sure to keep
pressure on the ends of the axles because if the CV joints come apart its not fun putting them back together. Remove the passenger side radius rod (suspension piece right under the transmission) When that's done start removing the wire harnesses connected to the transmission. Remove the starter from the transmission. Remove the torque converter cover and the transmission cable from underneath the transmission. Now you have to remove each of the 8 bolts that hold the torque converter to the flex plate. This is done 1 or 2 at a time, and then you must rotate the crank to get to the next couple. Make sure you have something holding the transmission (jack or lift) Remove the transmission bell housing bolts and remove the transmission mount. Drop the transmission slowly. Be careful because it's heavy. Remove the 8 bolts holding the flex plate to the block. They are 17 mm 12 point sockets. Then bolt up the flywheel using the NEW bolts you got, because the flex plate bolts are too short. Remove the center console in the car, disconnect the shifter assembly and the cables attached. Remove the brake pedal arm (there is a spring at the top - keep it) remove the plate that's covering the clutch master cylinder access. Take up passenger side carpet and remove the a/t control unit Unplug it - you don't need it anymore. Replace the ECU with the 5-speed version at the same time. Bolt all the hydraulic lines linking the clutch master cylinder to the transmission, then to the slave cylinder. (Cut off the old transmission mount before putting the new transmission into the engine bay.)* Install the transmission in reverse order of removal. Weld the 5 speed transmission mount onto the car. Then run the shift linkage cables from the inside of the car to the top/rear of the transmission. Connect these where they belong and put the cotter pins on to keep them on the right places. Install the old auto passenger side axle and the new intermediate shaft into the transmission. Bolt the intermediate shaft hanger to the block using the new bolts. Then install the new drivers side axle. Put the axles into the hubs and reinstall the ball joint that was taken apart. Then have your friend stand on the brakes again so you can tighten the axle nuts. Install the new manual transmission starter. You will need the long bolt that goes through the starter then through the transmission and into the block. Connect the power cable to the starter and the ground cable to the transmission. You might have to pull the clips off of the cables to get them to reach, no biggie. Wiring Method 1: Now its time to make the car start, first off start by taking the 2 nuts holding the white part on the automatic shifter and plug the 2 wire in that need to go where they belong (brown plug and a long white plug) Then tuck them in somewhere next - put in neutral and hope the car starts, if it does have fun you now have completed the impossible just to correct...
Method 2: Remove the a/t control unit, otherwise it will constantly give you a transmission check light on your dash. When you pull the auto shifter assembly, there will be 4 or so harnesses left laying there. On one harness (on the drivers side, I think it was the biggest connector on that side) I connected pin # 2 (green) to pine #5 (counting straight across, left to right) brown or black, not sure, its a ground I think, and the other harness I had to modify was also on the drivers side of the shifter assembly, its two bigger gauge wires, I just connected them together. These two harnesses control the kill starter (makes sure car is not in gear when you start it) and the other makes it so you can take your keys out of the ignition, basically, I tricked the computer into thinking it is always in park. {my method coming soon} Notes Mounts #1: I did not have to modify any mounts, but I used a 94 H23 transmission and motor when I did mine, not the accord transmission. The only modification I had to make to the engine bay was the rear support beam, I had to grind off about 1/2"X1.5" so this little bracket/bolt thing wouldn't hit it, nothing a grinder didn't take care of. Mounts #2: I put my H23 transmission in with a F23A1 engine and did not need to modify any mounts. Of course the engine was a little off to the drivers side, and there were some clearance issues. But those were solved with some trimming of the crank pulley and the absence of A/C. Mounts #3: The mount on the 5th Gen Accords is the same for the manual and automatic versions so no modifications are required. Disclaimer The people who wrote this, and presented this information are in no way responsible for your actions. You perform these modifications at YOUR OWN RISK. If you are not capable of doing these things, let someone else do it for you.