INTRODUCTION:
I've been seeing a lot of threads regarding people asking of immediate help on their aftermarket tachometer installations. This guide will hopefully end all questions as far as the electrical wiring is concerned. I SUGGEST YOU READ EVERYTHING BEFORE PROCEEDING FURTHER DOWN THE INSTALLATION SECTION!


DISCLAIMER:
I am NOT liable for the damages or injuries that you sustained for this installation guide. Proceed at your own risk! Click here for failure to comply. All pictures are taken off different websites since I don't have a camera to take my own. I will immediately take them down if needed just e-mail me at pnoyvillageidiot@yahoo.com


APPLICATIONS:
Most Honda vehicles.


MATERIALS:
1. Heat shrink tubings-
Needed to cover up soldered wires that were tapped into. I prefer multi-color for a much cleaner and invisible look but you can use regular heat shrink tubings that matches the right gauge of your wires.

Multi-color heat shrink tubings can be picked up from your local Radio Shack.

2. Wire cutter-
Needed to cut through thick and thin gauge wires.

Kronus™ 4.5" mini diagonal cutter from Radio Shack.

3. Wire stripper-
Needed to strip different gauge wires.

Kronus™ 4-way crimping and stripping tool from Radio Shack.

4. Solder iron and clear flux solder or solderless connectors/crimp connectors-
Needed to securely connect the wires needed to be tapped into and wires coming from your tachometer. If you don't have soldering irons or don't want to buy one,
you can always use crimp connectors but I'd rather recommend soldering since they provide the best reliability under 13G launches at the drag strip . Crimp connectors tend to become loose over time and eventually disconnect the wires.
Dual-wattage iron from Radio Shack.

5. Dental pick or any other sharp tool to separate wires when tapping.

6. Screw driver, screws, and other items needed for mounting your tachometer.

7. Last but not the least, your aftermarket tachometer!
Most people have Autometer/Autogauge aftermarket tachometers but I decided to pick up one of Defi's Step Graph tachometer with a control module since I like the small and stealthy look (3 1/8") compare to most of autometer's tachometers at 5." I got it brand new for $279.99 plus shipping on overboost.com.

INSTALLATION:
1. Since most people have an Autometer tachometer, I decided to use Overboost's installation pictures of an Autometer tachometer on their project CRX and Civic.

Before we proceed, here's a basic wiring diagram provided by Autometer for most applications-

For more questions regarding the wiring diagram, go here
http://hp.autometer.com/techti....html

Here's a wiring diagram from Defi-


The wire colors for different tachometers vary depending on the manufacturer. As you can see from the above diagrams, the some wiring colors and connections are different esp. on the RPM signal wire connection. Despite of different wire colors, they serve the same purposes and are tapped into the same destination wires.

Again since most people use Autometer's tachometer's and the only pictures I have are that of Overboost's using it then I will show you installation using Autometer's wiring diagram.

2. Take all necessary materials out. Make sure you don;t leave your keys in the ignition and disconnect negative cable off the battery for safety measures lol.

3. Decide on a mounting location of your tachometer (Most people prefer mounting it to the A-pillar since it provides a more stable seating of the tachometer and you can use it to hide the wires behind it. Also, where I'm from the overzealous drag strip inspectors would give your tachometer a yank to check if it would shake violently during the race.)

4. Install the tachometer stand.
If you have one of those removeable A-pillar covers, use the following pictures-



Full images-
http://overboost.com/pix.asp?i...4.jpg
http://overboost.com/pix.asp?i...5.jpg
http://overboost.com/pix.asp?i...7.jpg

If you don't have a removeable A-pillar cover or don't have one at all (old model Hondas)-



Full images-
http://overboost.com/picture.a...5.JPG
http://overboost.com/picture.a...6.JPG
http://overboost.com/picture.a...7.JPG

5. Remove the dash or do whatever you need for all I care to get access on the wires that are to be tapped into. https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=636033

6. IF YOU DONT KNOW HOW TO SOLDER GO HERE http://www.mmxpress.com/technical/connections.htm
Luckily most Hondas are pre-wired for tachometer connections. Green wire on Autometer tachometers goes to a blue wire coming off the backside of instrument cluster or THERE'S A DEAD END SINGLE WIRE (BLUE) HARNESS UNDER THE HOOD BY THE STRUT TOWER NEAR THE MC-

Full image-
http://overboost.com/picture.a...7.JPG

Black wires goes to a good ground-

Full image-
http://overboost.com/pix.asp?i...4.jpg

Red power wire goes to the yellow ignition switch-

Full image-
http://overboost.com/picture.a...0.JPG

The remaining white wire feeds off power and light and can be spliced into any bulb wires in the dash. ***ALSO YOU CAN CONNECT MOST OF THE WIRES COMING OFF THE TACHOMETER BY STICKING THEM AROUND FUSES IN THE UNDERDASH FUSEBOX SIMPLY BY WRAPPING THEM TO THE RIGHT FUSES OR USING FUSE TAPPERS OR USING SPADE CONNECTORS AND STICK THEM IN THE TERMINALS WITH NO FUSES. Use a test light or a voltmeter to check which ones are your constant and power wires
7. Now that you're done with wiring, check to see if everything is working, set your tach at preferred RPM, reconnect negative battery cable, replace A-pillar cover (if taken off) and VOILA! Enjoy your new tachometer hahaha.


PROPS:
Thanks to the following-
1. Overboost http://www.overboost.com
2. MMXpress http://www.mmxpress.com/technical/connections.htm
3. Radio Shack http://www.radioshack.com
4. Defi http://www.defi-shop.com
5. Autometer http://www.autometer.com
6. H-T member Smith Wise for EK dash removal write-up

FOR MORE QUESTIONS REGARDING THE INSTALLATION, EMAIL ME AT pnoyvillageidiot@yahoo.com AND FEEL FREE TO POST MORE INFORMATION TO THIS THREAD IF NEEDED

Modified by BrokeAssPinoy at 6:33 PM 8/5/2004


Modified by BrokeAssPinoy at 6:40 PM 8/5/2004


Modified by BrokeAssPinoy at 8:57 PM 8/5/2004


Modified by BrokeAssPinoy at 9:00 PM 8/5/2004


Modified by BrokeAssPinoy at 5:11 PM 1/2/2005


Modified by BrokeAssPinoy at 10:20 PM 5/29/2005

 

fix your pictures sir

 

oops some images are not working. I'm fixing them right now. BE PATIENT!

 

Pictures are back up!

 

 

cool, post it here https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=642479

 

good write up

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vtec69 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">good write up </TD></TR></TABLE>

 

 

or you can spend about 30 bucks, and take it to a shop

 

nice write up

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Rpizzle &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">or you can spend about 30 bucks, and take it to a shop</TD></TR></TABLE>Douche.

Very detailed writeup.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Rpizzle &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">or you can spend about 30 bucks, and take it to a shop</TD></TR></TABLE>

******* tool.

All that isn't necessary though. Every wire can be tapped to the cluster harness and the RPM lead to the harness right in front of the driver firewall.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dimi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">******* tool.</TD></TR></TABLE>haha

Bump for some good info.

 

thanks for this DIY, I'm going to need to do this really soon after i get a swap

 

I've seen the autometer in dash tachs. Has anyone replaced the speedo and tach w/ the autometer in dash ones?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ExiledinIN &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I've seen the autometer in dash tachs. Has anyone replaced the speedo and tach w/ the autometer in dash ones? </TD></TR></TABLE>

it disables several things that are federally prohibited. I've done it and to get gauges big enough to be usefull it looks ***

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Rpizzle &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">or you can spend about 30 bucks, and take it to a shop</TD></TR></TABLE>
good idea, thats an option for those of us without *****'s

 

ok got my tach all connected and stuff... a friend of mine gave me this... i think its a shift light... how the hell do I connect it? it comes with 2 black wires none of them say positive nor negative... where the hell im i suppost to plug in this crap...=D

thanks

 

It is a shift light. It should connect to the tach itself. If not, your going to need a RPM "pill" to signal it to go off.

 

ROFL

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tur3oDC4 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">good idea, thats an option for those of us without *****'s </TD></TR></TABLE>

 

good write up

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM_Ej &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It is a shift light. It should connect to the tach itself. If not, your going to need a RPM "pill" to signal it to go off.</TD></TR></TABLE>

very interesting... but my tach doesnt have any place to connect the damn 2 wires... do you think I have to tap it to any of the four color wires? or would i have to o pen the tach and solder them inside somewhere? has someone done this or has come acros this?

 

So I know this is bringing back a dead thread but a little helpful info. If you want too and are able too you can go directly to the cluster for all power, ground, illumination, and tach for your tachometer to work in most tegs and civics...
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1053318

This post will tell you which pin to look for as well as what color wires do what on your cluster harness for MOST Honda civics and tegs. Helpful and a little easier than running wires all over the place and works like a charm I had it done in less than five minutes of removing all trim and the cluster.

 

Nice.

I'd just fix it so you don't have to have a login/password to enlarge the pictures.