lsvtec for 1500.00
ok.. a co-worker of mine had this in his lsvtec 92ls teg. he recently got an is300 and hes trying to part out piece by piece to get as much money as he can. hes a good friend of mine so he decided i get first dibs. hes selling this b18 built block for 1500.00 heres what ill come with..
> 95 B18b block
> 81.5 MM Bore
> 11.5-1 compression JE Pistons
> Crower Rods
> Micro polished LS crankshaft
> LS-Vtec steel braided with earl fittings
> Type R Oil Pump/Water Pump w/timing belt
> P-28 ecu with mugen chip
>
> Everything above included for $1500 straight up
(currently i have a b16a obd0 s1 trany.)
now my question is
1. what else will i need to install properly and make it run ?
2. how long does swaping the bottom take?
3. can i still use my obd0 pr3 ecu or do i need to use his p28 chipped ecu?
4. can i still use my hasport mount or do i need to buy new mounts.?
5. will my stock b16 head work fine with this built bottom?
i have more question but for now this is the only thing i could think of.
thanks guys..
> 95 B18b block
> 81.5 MM Bore
> 11.5-1 compression JE Pistons
> Crower Rods
> Micro polished LS crankshaft
> LS-Vtec steel braided with earl fittings
> Type R Oil Pump/Water Pump w/timing belt
> P-28 ecu with mugen chip
>
> Everything above included for $1500 straight up
(currently i have a b16a obd0 s1 trany.)
now my question is
1. what else will i need to install properly and make it run ?
2. how long does swaping the bottom take?
3. can i still use my obd0 pr3 ecu or do i need to use his p28 chipped ecu?
4. can i still use my hasport mount or do i need to buy new mounts.?
5. will my stock b16 head work fine with this built bottom?
i have more question but for now this is the only thing i could think of.
thanks guys..
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ironchef25 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
1. what else will i need to install properly and make it run ?
2. how long does swaping the bottom take?
3. can i still use my obd0 pr3 ecu or do i need to use his p28 chipped ecu?
4. can i still use my hasport mount or do i need to buy new mounts.?
5. will my stock b16 head work fine with this built bottom?
i have more question but for now this is the only thing i could think of.
thanks guys..
</TD></TR></TABLE>
1. Stuff like an LS headgasket, etc. Check out the C speed racing website for detailed instructions.
2. Depends how fast you are. I would probably devote a day to do it, if you have the parts all ready to go. It'll probably take you 2 days since I'm sure you'll run into issues.
3. You can use your PR3 but it won't give the correct fueling for the bigger motor. I would reccomend an OBD-I conversion with that chipped P28 (you can re use your B16 injectors, just need new distributor and jumper harness)
4. Your Hasport mounts should be fine. You may have issues with the hood since the B18 block is taller. If this happens, you can shim the engine down with washers, or you can put washers under the hood hinges (what I would do).
5. Your stock B16 head should be fine. Running stock cams? If so, probably will have no issues with valve clearance
Look into buying an LS VTEC dowel kit from Golden Eagle as the dowel pins are different sizes. Or you can have them machined.
http://www.homemadeturbo.com
http://www.c-speedracing.com/howto.php
HTH!
1. what else will i need to install properly and make it run ?
2. how long does swaping the bottom take?
3. can i still use my obd0 pr3 ecu or do i need to use his p28 chipped ecu?
4. can i still use my hasport mount or do i need to buy new mounts.?
5. will my stock b16 head work fine with this built bottom?
i have more question but for now this is the only thing i could think of.
thanks guys..
</TD></TR></TABLE>1. Stuff like an LS headgasket, etc. Check out the C speed racing website for detailed instructions.
2. Depends how fast you are. I would probably devote a day to do it, if you have the parts all ready to go. It'll probably take you 2 days since I'm sure you'll run into issues.
3. You can use your PR3 but it won't give the correct fueling for the bigger motor. I would reccomend an OBD-I conversion with that chipped P28 (you can re use your B16 injectors, just need new distributor and jumper harness)
4. Your Hasport mounts should be fine. You may have issues with the hood since the B18 block is taller. If this happens, you can shim the engine down with washers, or you can put washers under the hood hinges (what I would do).
5. Your stock B16 head should be fine. Running stock cams? If so, probably will have no issues with valve clearance
Look into buying an LS VTEC dowel kit from Golden Eagle as the dowel pins are different sizes. Or you can have them machined.
http://www.homemadeturbo.com
http://www.c-speedracing.com/howto.php
HTH!
1500 for just the block? If so your friend seems to be smokin something
Im building my block with a budget of $1000 and the parts will be new
Arias 11.5:1 pistons
Eagle forged rods
micropolished, balanced crank
Stock bore
New rings/bearings all oem from Honda
All coming in the mail for just a tad under 800 and I had the crank and block done at a machine shop for 135, which is included in that deal and my stuff is NEW, yours will obviously come used, most likely eaten for a well larger price
Maybe if theres a nice head slapped on there, I dunno, doesnt add up to 1500 for used to me
Im building my block with a budget of $1000 and the parts will be new
Arias 11.5:1 pistons
Eagle forged rods
micropolished, balanced crank
Stock bore
New rings/bearings all oem from Honda
All coming in the mail for just a tad under 800 and I had the crank and block done at a machine shop for 135, which is included in that deal and my stuff is NEW, yours will obviously come used, most likely eaten for a well larger price
Maybe if theres a nice head slapped on there, I dunno, doesnt add up to 1500 for used to me
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Full Race A6 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">1500 for just the block? If so your friend seems to be smokin something
All coming in the mail for just a tad under 800 and I had the crank and block done at a machine shop for 135, which is included in that deal and my stuff is NEW, yours will obviously come used, most likely eaten for a well larger price
Maybe if theres a nice head slapped on there, I dunno, doesnt add up to 1500 for used to me</TD></TR></TABLE>
hnmmmmm something to think about...
All coming in the mail for just a tad under 800 and I had the crank and block done at a machine shop for 135, which is included in that deal and my stuff is NEW, yours will obviously come used, most likely eaten for a well larger price
Maybe if theres a nice head slapped on there, I dunno, doesnt add up to 1500 for used to me</TD></TR></TABLE>
hnmmmmm something to think about...
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You could build that block new for 1100 using all oem and high quality parts or you could cut a few ends and do the work youself for a little cheaper
There must be some reason why he expects 1500 for it though, something your missing?
There must be some reason why he expects 1500 for it though, something your missing?
well he said its pretty much it. he only had it for 5 months. cause he said im getting the whole block.. plus the ecu... so i dont know.. you guys are kinna discouraging me in not buying it..
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EL Vap133 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Does that come with the head?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
no
</TD></TR></TABLE>
no
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