Our cars have tons of gauges, steroes, dsps, eqs, amps, boost controllers etc. etc.
Our ignition system is only meant to start the car, my ignition recently burnt out and I have seen a number of other ignitions burn out also. Is it because honda ignitions are shitty, I think its because of all the bs thats hooked up to it. Has anybody run a relay to the ignition and hook everything off the relay? I think that would take considerable load off the ignition?

Any ideas and comments are most welcome

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TurboTeG4 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Our cars have tons of gauges, steroes, dsps, eqs, amps, boost controllers etc. etc.
Our ignition system is only meant to start the car, my ignition recently burnt out and I have seen a number of other ignitions burn out also. Is it because honda ignitions are shitty, I think its because of all the bs thats hooked up to it. Has anybody run a relay to the ignition and hook everything off the relay? I think that would take considerable load off the ignition?

Any ideas and comments are most welcome</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

So I take it all you guys ignitions are flawless&gt;?

 

No.. I just have the knowlege and understanding to use a relay to
switch power from the battery that all.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by audioroach &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">No.. I just have the knowlege and understanding to use a relay to
switch power from the battery that all.</TD></TR></TABLE>
What amperage relay should I use sir?

 

it depends on your power requirements. 20amp relays will suffice for normal useage ie: fog light, kill switch, fuel cut off, etc. If you are trying to do something major like DC to AC converters then you would want to use a 80amp relay.

 

Honda ignitions as well as many other car companies did not intend for customers to be tapping into their ignition harness for power of accessory's. However, it is possibly the best and highest current source under your dash. This is why many alarm manufacturers recommend you get power from there. By reading your list of accessory's though, I wouldn't even worry about your ignition. Your gauges are only drawing current for the light bulbs inside the gauge. This is only going to draw around 1 amp per gauge. That is very little. Next, your stereo has 2 power wires, a yellow and a red wire. yellow is 12v constant, which has nothing to do with your ignition. Next the red is your accessory wire. This is the wire that sends 12v to your deck when you turn your key. This is basically a voltage switch. This wire also draws only 1-2 amps max. Again, not a problem. Your EQ most likely only has the yellow wire which is 12v constant, not effecting your ignition. Your amp really have nothing to do with your ignition unless you are tapping power from there in which case, will cause you serious problems.

If you tapped all your power for your accessory's in the right places and are still worried, you a relay for your gauges, stereo/dsp/eq, and your boost controller. You do this by running a 12V constant, 14ga or larger wire to pin 30 of a relay. Take this straight from the battery. Next run a 14ga ground wire to the pin 85 of the relay. Then tap your ignition harness for ACC or IGN (which one you use depends on which position of the key you want your accessory's to turn on. ACC for your stereo, IGN for your gauges. Run this wires to pin 86 of the relay. Last, run a wire from pin 87 to your accessory's. This will take 95% of the load off your IGN.

 

Ho Bra Den Ha Com My Ignision Wen Burn Out LA Dat?

 

Wassup TurboteG4, I didn't see you was from Maui. 1320 performance i presume? Well, if you got any other electrical ?s, just hit me up.