I have been thinking about this, obviouly a front bar is neccicary but ~22mm promotes understeer. There should be a 10mm front bar used on EG/DC cars with ~500 front springs to get added turn in, crip front, but less understeer.
comments?

 

At that point it would do so little to affect the car's handling with those spring rates that it might as well not be there. IMO

 

There's no demand for one.

Between the stock size, alternate stock sizes from different cars, and the option of not using one there really isn't much demand for anything else.

Also, the front bars have many bends in them and the attachment point to the LCA result in a rather low wheel rate. So changing the front swaybar by a few mm isn't going to make as big difference as with would with a rear bar.

 

mabey not for handling, but for load transfer i might help.

The size was a number i threw out there, and I have not spent any time at all on caclulations.....but it does make sense......

A rear stock integra size was what? 15mm?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B HATCH &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have not spent any time at all on caclulations.....but it does make sense......</TD></TR></TABLE>

Uh, ok.

Drop 50 or 100 lbs from the front spring rate then, or go with a stiffer rear bar, the net effect will be the same.

 

So, if you're not doing it for handling, why bother? A 10mm front bar wouldn't affect "feel" any more than putting some poly bushings in the upper control arms, or something equally minor.

 

you know you can just loosen the nuts on the endlinks on a front sway bar to lessen its affect.

 

You have to look at the whole picture. Yes a 22mm front sway bar will promote understeer (as will any bar over 0mm) but it doesn't mean the car will understeer, it depends on the rest of your setup.

 

the digonal load transfer is what causes the rear to lift on a FWD. But a car with a 22mm large bar does not do so as much a one with a 22mm front bar. When you take the front bar off you get more diagonal load on the outside front, lifting the inside rear. This we are all aware of. If you link the front suspention together via a roll bar we get a slight torson effect (obvioulsy) which will reduce the load tranfer to the outside front.........

The entire exercise is due to my understaning that 4 tires on the cround on corner entry will be better then 3, and that less compression on that outside spring will be benifical to the car's response and abily for the damper/spring assembly to work. And the all cars should have both front and rear swaybars..

I't just an idea......

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B HATCH &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The entire exercise is due to my understaning that 4 tires on the cround on corner entry will be better then 3, and that less compression on that outside spring will be benifical to the car's response and abily for the damper/spring assembly to work. And the all cars should have both front and rear swaybars..</TD></TR></TABLE>

It doesnt work that way.

Doesnt matter if its off the ground or not, its completely unloaded and not doing anything for you. Please read the suspension summary link in the FAQ.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

It doesnt work that way.

Doesnt matter if its off the ground or not, its completely unloaded and not doing anything for you. Please read the suspension summary link in the FAQ.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Mabey you can point me to where i should be looking. Cause i was looking in the FAQ and didn't notice what you were refering too.

 

suspension techniques front bar is 17mm.

 

And if you really really want a 10 (or whatever)mm front bar just ship your stock bar to Saner Performance Fab and say "Make me this in an xxmm." About $200 later you'll have one.
Puckett (metalworker) could probably do one as well.

See, its not all that hard.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B HATCH &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Mabey you can point me to where i should be looking. Cause i was looking in the FAQ and didn't notice what you were refering too.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=285747

 

remove front sway bar
bring to machine shop
tell them to lathe off material in the middle to "X" diameter
effect is the same, as thats where it will twist.

 

maybe you should explain how to put a bent swaybar in a bridgeport lathe.

 

hmm, good point...

use a die grinder... use anything to reduce the thickness.

 

Yeah, I don't know how you'd reduce the thickness of a front swaybar. I would say a die grinder would be sloppy as hell.

I vote to loosen the endlinks. I also vote you read some technical literature to clear up some of your "half-correct" theories.

 

sloppy? So what....it's not like you want it to be stiff anyway

 

Yeah, but it's not worth the effort. Why die grind a swaybar when you can simply connect the front wheels with rope and a complex system of pulleys?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GSpeedR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I vote to loosen the endlinks. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Perhaps use a softer rubber in the endlinks. (can't think of any right now but I'm sure there's some kind of soft rubber bushing out there that would fit)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by thumpu77 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Perhaps use a softer rubber in the endlinks. (can't think of any right now but I'm sure there's some kind of soft rubber bushing out there that would fit)</TD></TR></TABLE>

Nerf ball foam.

That is an old Mustang Street Prepared trick. You are allowed to run panhard bars and torque arms but NOT allowed to remove the UCAs. By leaving them on the car is still subject to its patented rear bind and subsequent hop/**** weight transfer/inevitible swinging of the rear regardless of what other lateral location devices you are using.

Bushing material is however unlimited provided they are not solid (ie: metal). Nerf foam falls in the "unlimited" category but since it is so soft it will not do anything other than allow the UCAs to float rendering them non-existent.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=285747</TD></TR></TABLE>


Good write up............