i did this in my crx....its pretty simple set-up. used the fastener from the spare tire and two bolts tightened through two holes i drilled. cut the hard board then the carpet to fit. then finally i made a cardboard box of what resembles a battery box just to get measurments and other bs. keep in mind i spent no more than an hour on this diy project. it is NO WHERE CLOSE to completion...

total time spent < 1 hour


-1 integra battery bracket/tray/tie down
-dremel tool and drill bits
-a knife and a pair of scissors
-misc. bolts/washers/srews
-cardboard and tape (for mock-up battery box)

 

interesting. You don't really put much stuff in the trunk area, do you?

How are you going to run the battery cable?

 

nope, thats what the suburban is for....


it all depends on how the battery box turns out. im looking to run it out the bottom of the box and under the carpeting.

 

has anyone done this kind of setup before?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbotommy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">has anyone done this kind of setup before?</TD></TR></TABLE>
yep.

also included a vent tube (mandatory) and a kill switch (also mandatory).

 

I would use something more airtight than cardboard, but the bracket job looks nice. good work

 

I got my **** in the right corner.

I love the room that the CRX has but that battery in the middle kills it. If your not going to have a spare then why don't you get a battery you can lay flat so it does not protrude out. That way it will sit flat where the spare used to and it still looks stock.

 

If you have an accident that battery is gonna fly outta there. Thats a lot of leverage with it so high off the sheetmetal. Besides you really do want an AIRTIGHT box thats vented outside the interior, Hydrogen-sulfide is pretty explosive.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbotommy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i did this in my crx....its pretty simple set-up. used the fastener from the spare tire and two bolts tightened through two holes i drilled. cut the hard board then the carpet to fit. then finally i made a cardboard box of what resembles a battery box <U>just to get measurments and other bs</U>. keep in mind i spent no more than an hour on this diy project. it is NO WHERE CLOSE to completion...

total time spent &lt; 1 hour


-1 integra battery bracket/tray/tie down
-dremel tool and drill bits
-a knife and a pair of scissors
-misc. bolts/washers/srews
-cardboard and tape (for <U>mock-up </U>battery box)</TD></TR></TABLE>

this thread isnt a picture book. please READ beofore you comment

i believe it will take allot of force to throw the battery fowards saying i DO get in a front end collision. enough to either have to brake the tie-down or snap all three bolts.

the battery box that i will use will vent to the outside and be completely sealed. ill be using the ssr kill switch kit with this setup too.

 

No sure who you was referring to but think physics, mass , and mechanical leverage.

That battery is effectively on the end of a lever, you hit something and that batery effectively weighs far more than you might think and if those bolts pull through, I pray you never get to find out what happens next.

You have to be real careful with something like this Getto engineering can be life threatening. Accidents happen.

 

Do all tracks require that you have a killswitch to run at the track. I cant remember if its mandatory here(pittsburgh raceway park) or not.

Better look into that lol

 

also think about the ground line. it will be bolted through the frame and to the battery. the battery box will also be bolted to the bracket and out of the bottom of this box the pwr line will be securely fastened to the bottom of the car all the way to the front. both these lines will act like "anchors".

 

I hope you use large enough wire. I have had friend's who moved there battery in trunk and there cars don't start very well when its cold.

P.s. The small battery layed flat in the spare compartment is a awesome idea. I will be doing this tomorrow.

 

make sure its a dry cell or one of those cool tube battery's...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LankorDie &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I hope you use large enough wire. I have had friend's who moved there battery in trunk and there cars don't start very well when its cold.

P.s. The small battery layed flat in the spare compartment is a awesome idea. I will be doing this tomorrow.</TD></TR></TABLE>

This is how I have mine. I think using a lighter, sealed, placed in middle or rear of the car really improved handling. The only problem is if you put the battery there then it's right over teh gas tank and no where to drill holes to hold it down. Anyone find a secure way?

 

Ground cable is copper, not stong. Battery post is lead, you can rip one off by hand if you try. Don't remember the mathmatical formula but mass increases exponentialy with velocity. You have to figure a very serious deceleration where that battery due to G-forces make that battery weight many times more. A bolt thru sheat metal Will pull through guaranteed.

I wouldn't want something cobbled behind my head. But do what you want. Just want to give you something to think about in case you had not considered it.

 

-i had plenty of room inbetween the bottom of the pan and the gas tank to dril the holes

-the formula is something like object mass x r-velocity = object velocity. im not sure if this is exactly correct or missing anything. i have thought about what might happen in a front end collision. actually its the reason i used a stock battery rack/tray/tie-down. maybe some small welds or additional bolts to the pan for the battery box. im not sure though.

 

You may want to consider removing the pedistal then and have the actual batery tray flat on the sheetmetal. and make up a plate to use on the bottom and use grade 8 hardware.

All I can visualise is that snapping off and nailing you from behind in an accident.

I have known people crippled from a spare tire coming loose in an accident braking their back.

That several inch pedistal is not needed. And is what makes that the most dangerous.

Rule #1 be safe.

 

That really doesnt look all to safe to me...

 

hmm....well i can shake the whole car with just the battery hahaha. its really sturdy but there will still be extra precautions taken to secure it to the car.

 

Your better off doing what virginia_dude said. You want it as low to the frame as possible not high like how you have it.

You should really ask your Brother Javier for his engineering skills cause that is a poor design.

Don't get me wrong it looks pretty nice but function of the mount suck ***.

You know all this talk on the other thread about the traction bar and then you post something like this.

*sign*

 

i would like to have the battery easily accessible. now i am taking extra precautions to secure the battery to the mount but the mount itself IS secure enough to move the entire car.

 

why not put it in the corner behind the passenger ? this way it'll even out with the weight (you) in the drivers seat.

- just what most people do.

 

i can understand why the venting of the batter is necessary. but why do you need a kill switch?

and dont optima yellow top batterys not need to be vented? i had heard that optima yellow top batterys dont release any gas. or maybe it was the red tops ones...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GSRCRXsi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i can understand why the venting of the batter is necessary. but why do you need a kill switch?

and dont optima yellow top batterys not need to be vented? i had heard that optima yellow top batterys dont release any gas. or maybe it was the red tops ones...</TD></TR></TABLE>

I know the Red ones are sealed and dont require Venting. But if i were ever to move mine to the back it wold be in one. Just to save me trouble later on if the Optima went bad and i had to by a cheap one.