what do i need to build a h22a4 bo0ttom end also what is the approx cost thanks

 

can you be more specific?

the link in my sig shows my built block and what is in it

 

well i wanna buiild a h22a4 block so it can handle boost , up to about 15-20 psi what do i need to buy and do to the block i want a few sites i can get a good deal on this stuff. a list of parts will be appreshated thanks

 

Hey if you need to talk to someone that is in the process of having it done let me know. I'll send you my cell number and talk to you about what I choose to do! I've got a 99 h22a4 that I melted the rings in one cylinder and scarred the walls so I sent it out to Golden Ealge. I've got costs and actual emails from them. It's expensive as hell to build your block right but the bank refinanced my car loan so I got lucky!

 

I just put together another h22a4 motor last week for and with Mase. The motor should see around 500whp. My personal H series motor has seen 450whp and in the next few weeks it should see an upwards of 550whp.

If you are interested in my services, I can not only build the motor for you but I can have it Darton sleeved and I also carry a fine line of products for your specific built.

You can contact me at avengineering1@aol.com

 

I WISH I HAD MORE HANDS, So I could give A/V FOUR thumbs up!!!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PrecisionH23a &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I just put together another h22a4 motor last week for Mase. </TD></TR></TABLE>


yup, i just sat there and watched him do it all

 

Mase made sure the piston rings were gapped in the middle of each cylinder.... even though we all know each piston ring does not sit necessarily in the middle section of the cylinders. Mase busted his *** on the build, I was not getting paid enough to do the whole install myself So I told him what to do, and he did it. haha jk, mase knows his stuff as well.

 

whats with all these built h-series motors all the sudden......... tony brian n me will always be the orginal 3..... h23's that is.....

for anyone building an h-series....

my build was around 3500 bucks for the bottom end, but i got an incredible deal on my sleeve job at GE..... pays to know people

Anthony knows his ****....... send him ure block, he'll take care of the rest

 

I got my h22a4 block sleeved with HD sleeves and fully built for $2198.11 including O-ring! I supplied the pistons and rods but I got a brand new set of 11.5 to 1 JE's with rings for 350 on ebay! I got the Eagle H-beam rods for 300 shipped. So I guess I got mine built for $2848.11.

I am not a site sponsor so I am going to stop free advertising.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by spoolinlude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">whats with all these built h-series motors all the sudden......... tony brian n me will always be the orginal 3..... h23's that is.....

for anyone building an h-series....

my build was around 3500 bucks for the bottom end, but i got an incredible deal on my sleeve job at GE..... pays to know people

Anthony knows his ****....... send him ure block, he'll take care of the rest</TD></TR></TABLE>

that price includes what i paid for pistons/rods/bearings

 

You paid that much to just have a shortblock done? No wonder why you had to refinance your car to just pay for a shortblock. Vince definetely does quality work, Golden Eagle gets two thumbs up from me.... but it doesn't sound like you did your homework when it came to researching your goals.

Eagle H beams are good rods, but I tend to go with a little more beefier rod when going the heavy duty forced induction road.

As far as advertising what you have going on, it's time to stop... unless you would like to become a site sponsor. You do not have enough established credibility on the board and as the forum moderator I try to look out for the fellow members. You are probably a great guy, but you cannot use this site as a marketing tool for yourself without being a sponsor.

Share your GE info, that's fine. But anything else that was deleted is not allowed.

 

Once again I'll post the info I just had deleted by a moderator that obviously doesn't read well. If you can prove to me how I will benefit from posting the information you will see below I will not say another word. I don't know what your deal is but in marketing people make money off things they promote. The information below is only to help fellow luders with their engine build without having to worry about a thing.

ONCE AGAIN THIS IS NOT MY PERSONAL BUSINESS, THIS IS A DIRECT "QUOTE FROM GOLDEN EAGLE
To get your H22a block sleeved up to 89 mm will run you $950.
To get your H22 block sleeved up to 91 mm ( for all-motor ONLY ) will
run you $1050.
This includes putting our new "HD" series sleeves into your block, cleaning
and decking - Two Options: If nothing is specified about the deck when we
receive the block, it will be decked to our standards with no o-ring.
1. step deck which is usually for block that do not have enough room for
an o-ring due to large bores. It is our "STANDARD"
2. O-ring - which we like to put on all motors if possible. Works great
on turbo or NOS cars. ( $50 additional charge )

Remember, we use all CNC equipment to do the sleeving portion
of the operation so no one can touch us when it comes to quality,
craftsmanship, tolerances and turn-around. NO ONE!! Plus, our blocks
get pressure tested before they leave to ensure a perfect block every time!
Quality and reliability are always our top concerns. Turn around time is
approx. 10 - 15 working days.

We can bore and hone your block but this process is an additional
$125.00, adds 3 - 5 days to the turn around time and we need the pistons
in order to get the process done.

To build your H22 if you supply the pistons and rods will run you 2148.11 and if you want us to supply the pistons and rods let me know what brnds you want and i will get you prices for that Our standard engine building services include:

Engine Sleeving
Line Boring (ensures the most H.P. and reliability from the motor)
Bore & Hone
Arias, JE, Wiseco, ENDYN, CP, or Probe Pistons
Crower, Eagle, Pauter, Carrillo or Cunningham Rods
Balancing The Rotating Assembly
Crank Sizing
Rod Sizing
Micro-Polishing The Crank
New ACL Rod, Main and Thrust Bearings
Step Decking

Jet Wash Cleaning
Bead Blasting The Block To Make It Look New
Full Blueprinting And Assembly


Options Include:

Combustion Chamber O-ring
Deck Plate
Custom Length Rods In Steel, Aluminum And Titanium
Stroker Cranks In Almost Any Size
Clearancing The Block For Massive Stroke Lengths

E MFG IN SAN DIMAS, CALLY!

 

**** built blocks, it's all about pulling big numbers from stock blocks.

&lt;---------Chase, who will prob. be back in the next few months crying about another blown motor....

 

Well I agree b18c5's make hella loads of power but I didn't have a whole lot of options because of the sleeves on the h22a4 block so that's why I had it built. I wasn't trying to make it a 11 or 12 second car but I just couldn't see putting stock components back in that's all! If it goes what it did on the juice I'll be pumped I ran a 13.92 with a 2.185 60 ft at 102 with just a 75 shot on 17 inch rims and tires which have been replaced by 16 x 7 5 zigen fn-01r-c wheels in bronze trim. Not the best rim bit I just liked them for some reason. They're aren't a lot of ludes around here and only 2 5th gens other than mine that I know of and that is in a city with over 60,000 peeps so I should have a nice reliable ride finally. I want to go back to juice but I truely don't think it's for me, I don't have enough self control with it. A direct port kit with a 125 shot tuned on the wideband would make loads of power and torque but I think I'm done taking my car to the strip for a while!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by preludedriver99 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well I agree b18c5's make hella loads of power but I didn't have a whole lot of options because of the sleeves on the h22a4 block so that's why I had it built. I wasn't trying to make it a 11 or 12 second car but I just couldn't see putting stock components back in that's all! If it goes what it did on the juice I'll be pumped I ran a 13.92 with a 2.185 60 ft at 102 with just a 75 shot on 17 inch rims and tires which have been replaced by 16 x 7 5 zigen fn-01r-c wheels in bronze trim. Not the best rim bit I just liked them for some reason. They're aren't a lot of ludes around here and only 2 5th gens other than mine that I know of and that is in a city with over 60,000 peeps so I should have a nice reliable ride finally. I want to go back to juice but I truely don't think it's for me, I don't have enough self control with it. A direct port kit with a 125 shot tuned on the wideband would make loads of power and torque but I think I'm done taking my car to the strip for a while!</TD></TR></TABLE>

1) Who is talking about a b18c5 in this thread? How do options on sleeving an h22a have anything to do with a c5? Why the hell would you even run a c5 in a prelude?

2) Why are you mentioning irrelevant BS in this thread again? Remember, that's why your first few posts were deleted. So now I'll save them for proof of your stupidity for the whole board to see. That way you can't cry and try to cover up things.

3) 125 shot tuned on the wideband?

do you just reiterate everything you hear from tuner tv or something? First the reason you run EMS is because of your header and now nitrous is solely tuned by only using a wideband. I guess you are not paying attention in those mechanic classes you are taking.

4) You are done taking your car to the strip for a while? So you sunk in all that money to have a motor that you are going to baby around? Uhhh dyno queen anyone? You are going to have 310 hp remember and you are only hoping to bearly break into the 13s? The funniest thing about this whole issue is the fact that you have the ATTS unit and you have done nothing about getting rid of it.

Also, let me get this straight.... out of 60,000 there are only a total of 2 5th gens in your city? I didn't know jupiter had internet access. You have a fully built motor, it's not going to be as reliable as you are making it out to seem.

5) I'm sick of your irrelevant posts, slander, and threatening PM's. Say byebye. We will all miss you dearly.

Now, back on topic-

 

Because of the post that said **** built blocks. How much reliable power you going to make on a stock frm sleeve from a h22? I was only using the b18c5 as an example of a good block to make good power with stock. Also what's wrong with having a direct post setup tuned on the wideband? I'd much rather my air fuel be in the ok region other than lean!

 

dah dah dah.

Another one bites the dust.

 

lol

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 99BlackSH &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">lol</TD></TR></TABLE>

You better be careful, you could be next!

 

haha satan approves

 

OK I DONT WANT ANY OF U GUYS TO FIGHT I JUST WANTED SOME INFO DO ANY OF U GUYS THINK I SHOULD JUST USE A BLOCK GUARD INSTEAD OF SLEVEING IF I ONLY WANNA DO UOP TO 20 LBS . ANLSO ANYONE KNOW WHERE I CAN GET A BLOCK H22 BLOCK FOR A GOOD PRICE THANKS

 

If you gonna do it do it right the first time and done. That has always been my motto. So if you going to build for 20lbs then sleeve and get all the necessary parts that will give you solid 20lbs day and night. Read do your research then start making your purchases..

I personally have a 99 USDM block with old schoool darton sleeves. I will be working with precisionh23a to build the block and then boost the **** out of it just because I think the h-motor has alot of untapped potential.. I will document everything and hopefully make a guide that will help others down the road in their decision..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by prelude122 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">OK I DONT WANT ANY OF U GUYS TO FIGHT I JUST WANTED SOME INFO DO ANY OF U GUYS THINK I SHOULD JUST USE A BLOCK GUARD INSTEAD OF SLEVEING IF I ONLY WANNA DO UOP TO 20 LBS . ANLSO ANYONE KNOW WHERE I CAN GET A BLOCK H22 BLOCK FOR A GOOD PRICE THANKS</TD></TR></TABLE>

I would do a block gaurd anyway.
For 20 lbs you are definately going to have to go forged internals.

And Anthony... if you and Mase ever want to play with another project, I have a prelude in the driveway giving me grief

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Lildrgn &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">And Anthony... if you and Mase ever want to play with another project, I have a prelude in the driveway giving me grief </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah, and if you wanna install my turbo system and tune it for free, you fellas just let me know lol ...