Still trouble starting after replacing just about everything.
Replaced starter. Car won't crank (as in the starter won't even crank). Took new starter to parts store to have it checked. Tested fine. they hooked it up, and it spun like a madman. I took it home, hooked it up, and jack ****. replaced the ignition switch (wiring from key cylinder to fuse panel/wiring harness) and still nada. clutch switch and starter relay (under dash) both test fine. battery's fine (all windows, moonroof, lights, etc. work as before).
WHAT THE ****
WHAT THE ****
Do you think the ignition cylinder (where the key gets put in) is the culprit. Try to wiggle the key while you turn it. I had the same problem and it drove me crazy, and finally i figured out how to turn it on. To this day the cylinder is still bad and I still have to wiggle it to turn it on. Its either that, or maybe your IG fuse in the engine fuse box has popped. If its not that, then double check everything you did, you never know, it could be something as simple as a loose wire! Hope this helps man!
it could be your main relay under the dash i think proaably depends on the car. if u blew that just go to honda and get a new they're not that expensive between 50- 150 ithink... hope it works
if the starter is not cranking that mean it is not getting a 12 volt source, or the signal wires is the problem, check for voltage on both wires
switched power wire at the starter only has 9v. this was repeated using 2 different ignition switches.
ideas?
ideas?
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Battery problems can be deceiving at times. I say you try a friends battery just to be on the safe side. Sometimes batteries have internal shorts and can make the battery seem like its fine (windows roll up at normal speeds, headlights are bright, etc), yet there's not enough juice to start the car...
Check all of your fuses.
Check your ground wires!
Check to see if the you have the everything connected to the starter correctly. There's a little connector that needs to be plugged into the starter besides the 12mm power line (its right near the 12mm power line), if you didn't know....(wish I had a picture to show you), make sure thats plugged in or the starter won't work.
Check any engine wire harness plugs, see if there slightly disconnected
Check all of your fuses.
Check your ground wires!
Check to see if the you have the everything connected to the starter correctly. There's a little connector that needs to be plugged into the starter besides the 12mm power line (its right near the 12mm power line), if you didn't know....(wish I had a picture to show you), make sure thats plugged in or the starter won't work.
Check any engine wire harness plugs, see if there slightly disconnected
all plugs are fine, all grounds are secure (4-ga wire), and the little spade connector of which you speak is the wire at which i only have 9v.
same is true with 2 different known good batteries.
same is true with 2 different known good batteries.
update:
current at ignition switch, to starter: 12.6V
current at starter relay from ignition: 12.6V
current at starter relay to starter: 12.6V
current at starter from constant, grounded on starter: 12.6V
current at starter from constant, grounded to chassis: 12.6V
current at starter from ignition switch, grounded to starter: 11.5V*
current at starter from ignition switch, grounded to chassis: 11.5V*
result of jumping starter from battery terminal: nothing happened.
when the starter was tested at the parts store, it worked just fine.
* = with the key turned to 'start', obviously a bit of a voltage drop is expected.
current at ignition switch, to starter: 12.6V
current at starter relay from ignition: 12.6V
current at starter relay to starter: 12.6V
current at starter from constant, grounded on starter: 12.6V
current at starter from constant, grounded to chassis: 12.6V
current at starter from ignition switch, grounded to starter: 11.5V*
current at starter from ignition switch, grounded to chassis: 11.5V*
result of jumping starter from battery terminal: nothing happened.
when the starter was tested at the parts store, it worked just fine.
* = with the key turned to 'start', obviously a bit of a voltage drop is expected.
all righty, i'll re-check grounds after dinner. 
Help me out with a checklist really quick here:
--water neck (t-stat housing)
--transmission to chassis
--valve cover to chassis
anywhere else?

Help me out with a checklist really quick here:
--water neck (t-stat housing)
--transmission to chassis
--valve cover to chassis
anywhere else?
problem was fixed already. i just figured that with nearly 100 views, and half the posts in the thread from me, that it wasn't a huge issue for anyone.
Lets see.. Starter doesn't work at home but works at the Parts Store.. No hard feelings but, it was just kind of disappointing how a lot of the guys here jumped around to try and fix the problem..
I guess for future reference, before replacing your starter, check your starter ground. Or better yet, remove your starter and set it on the ground. Then with your car battery, jump power to it and manually ground it with a huge thick screwdriver.. That's pretty much what they do at the Parts Store..
I guess for future reference, before replacing your starter, check your starter ground. Or better yet, remove your starter and set it on the ground. Then with your car battery, jump power to it and manually ground it with a huge thick screwdriver.. That's pretty much what they do at the Parts Store..
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Brady Stone
Honda Accord & Crosstour (2003 - 2012)
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Jan 19, 2016 03:40 AM




