I've removed the knuckle assembely and the 4 bolt holding the "hub" to the knuckle and the pictures in my 4 manuals show that the rotor and hub unit should just slid out...but it's stuck and doesn't

Pic:

any suggestions?


Modified by DIYaccord at 11:19 AM 7/27/2004

 

why are you removing the hub? The rotors are usually held on to the hub by 2 screws, no need to remove the studs/etc.

 

My Integra had one screw holding the rotor to the hub. Use an impact driver with a phillips head on it and it'll come right off.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by El Pollo Diablo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">why are you removing the hub? The rotors are usually held on to the hub by 2 screws, no need to remove the studs/etc.</TD></TR></TABLE>

have to remove the hub to remove the rotor on accords... aren't you glad you have a civic now?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MichaelJComputer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">have to remove the hub to remove the rotor on accords... aren't you glad you have a civic now?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Damn, that looks ugly.... sorry.

 

Some years of Accords don't have the rotor be the thing on the outside when one pulls off the wheel. There's something else bolted in front of the rotor (as shown in the pic). It's a pain I imagine to change them out.

 

So how can i remove the rotors? what's needed? (btw, i don't have a large vise or air tools)

Ignor the "THIS" and colors


Modified by DIYaccord at 11:59 AM 7/27/2004

 

If you are just removing th3 rotors like El Pollo Diablo said <TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by El Pollo Diablo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">why are you removing the hub? The rotors are usually held on to the hub by 2 screws, no need to remove the studs/etc.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

I don't even use the screws to hold the rotors in.

 

I recently did the rotors on my accord. I took the rear bolts off, then used a large socket and hammer to pop the rotor/bearing assembly out with. Going back together, I just tapped it into place, squared it up, and used the bolts to pull it back into place. THT.

 

yes the accords are held in place with the hub. you have to either use a special press to get the bearing out to release the rotor or a BFH to diassemble the bearing, which ***** them up needless to say.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DIYaccord &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So how can i remove the rotors? what's needed?</TD></TR></TABLE>

A slide hammer with the hub adapter held onto the hub by the lugnuts.

Make sure you have spare wheel bearings since the majority of the time they explode.

Honda turns the rotors on the cars.

 

Yup! Did this on my accord, both bearings exploded. Rent a Slide hammer from autozone and the appropriate attachment and you can remove it yourself. you'll still need a press I believe to put in the new bearings though.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Evil Drew M &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

A slide hammer with the hub adapter held onto the hub by the lugnuts.

Make sure you have spare wheel bearings since the majority of the time they explode.

Honda turns the rotors on the cars.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DIYaccord &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

So how can i remove the rotors? what's needed? (btw, i don't have a large vise or air tools)

Ignor the "THIS" and colors


Modified by DIYaccord at 11:59 AM 7/27/2004</TD></TR></TABLE>
How can i remove the "this" i've been trying to get it off for an hour, does the axlebolt lock thing have to be taken out with a screwdriver? i'm using one of those leverage bars, and still nothing.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by StageOne &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Damn, that looks ugly.... sorry.



</TD></TR></TABLE> i'm trying to remove the bolt J-9, and ideas?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rival12 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> i'm trying to remove the bolt J-9, and ideas?</TD></TR></TABLE>

axle nut? breaker bar... a big one. also be sure that the "pin" isn't working against you.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rival12 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> i'm trying to remove the bolt J-9, and ideas?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Depends on whether or not you have air at your disposal.

If you have air do the following:

1. Remove cotter pin (if one is installed)
2. Place appropriate socket (something like 24mm) onto impact
3. Hit with impact until loose

If you do NOT have air, do the following:

1. Remove cotter pin (if one is installed)
2. Remove center cap frm wheel
3. Reinstall wheel/tire
4. Put car back down on the ground, put in gear and engage parking brake
5. Place appropriate socket (something like 24mm) onto 1/2" drive breaker bar
6. Slide piece of lead pipe over breaker bar handle (about 3' should be enough)
7. Put socket on nut through hole in center of wheel
8. Loosen nut

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Evil Drew M &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you do NOT have air, do the following:

1. Remove cotter pin (if one is installed)
2. Remove center cap frm wheel
3. Reinstall wheel/tire
4. Put car back down on the ground, put in gear and engage parking brake
5. Place appropriate socket (something like 24mm) onto 1/2" drive breaker bar
6. Slide piece of lead pipe over breaker bar handle (about 3' should be enough)
7. Put socket on nut through hole in center of wheel
8. Loosen nut</TD></TR></TABLE>

That worked well for my 140lb-ft axle nuts. The handle of a floor jack doubles as your lead pipe.

 

That is the worst hub/rotor design I've ever seen. Reminds me of a German car with its complete lack of serviceability.

 

the 1/2 inch breaker thing broke, there is no, hope, now i have to spend money, and it's a 36mm axle nut socket

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rival12 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the 1/2 inch breaker thing broke</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yikes.

Is one side reverse threaded or something?

 

there is an easier way...............

put the 4 bolts back in, the 12mm ones

leave less than a mm unthreaded so the head of the bolts barely sit over top of the hub

put an even block of wood over the 4 bolts and hit it with a hammer evenly over the bolts, be patient because it will take some time to break it loose

once you do break it loose tap evenly around the bearing to remove

I have yet to ruin a bearing doing this

 

Yeah, when I did this on my Accord the 1st one was a HUGE PITA, the 2nd one took me less than 30mins. Since I was replacing the bearings (They had ~250k miles on them) I just pulled the knuckle off, took those 4 bolts off and beat the bearing/hub out from the rear. Used a big socket to beat my new bearings onto my new hubs (I switched to rotor over hub brakes during this time).