mandrel vs. crush bends for charge piping?
no one local can do mandrel bends, I could weld all my charge piping but I'd like seamless better. So how much will the crush bends effect it? This would be for 2.5" piping either way on an EF w/ D16.
-Dustin
-Dustin
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by krustindumm »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">no one local can do mandrel bends, I could weld all my charge piping but I'd like seamless better. So how much will the crush bends effect it? This would be for 2.5" piping either way on an EF w/ D16.
-Dustin</TD></TR></TABLE>
Just do the DIY JC Whitney intercooler piping. If you want the "seamless" look grind down your welds, bondo the piping and get it powder coated. That's how the Harley guys do it
-Dustin</TD></TR></TABLE>
Just do the DIY JC Whitney intercooler piping. If you want the "seamless" look grind down your welds, bondo the piping and get it powder coated. That's how the Harley guys do it
nearest place that does it is 100 miles away, and i'd have to trailer my car.
bondo and **** would work, thats a hell of alot of labor though. i'll think about it...
bondo and **** would work, thats a hell of alot of labor though. i'll think about it...
man just do what you know is right,then everytime you pop your hood you don't have to worry about someone talkin ****...plus you know the mandrel bends will be better for the car,it's never good to resrict air with forced induction. Good luck no matter what you do
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by krustindumm »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
bondo and **** would work, thats a hell of alot of labor though. i'll think about it...</TD></TR></TABLE>
Good things come to those who wait
bondo and **** would work, thats a hell of alot of labor though. i'll think about it...</TD></TR></TABLE>
Good things come to those who wait
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my pipes were like pinch bent(not mandrel but not krinkled crush bent either, see pic below). i had a 5.8 psi wastegate spring and i would boost a solid 6 psi out of it(also with johnnyracecar 5" intercooler), so i didnt experience any pressure drop out of it. if i were doing a high horsepower setup id probably use bends from kteller.com, but for low boost i think any bend but crincle bends should do fine.

edit: ive been up for a long long time, so please excuse the poor spelling
edit: ive been up for a long long time, so please excuse the poor spelling
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blackeg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">my pipes were like pinch bent(not mandrel but not krinkled crush bent either, see pic below). i had a 5.8 psi wastegate spring and i would boost a solid 6 psi out of it(also with johnnyracecar 5" intercooler), so i didnt experience any pressure drop out of it. if i were doing a high horsepower setup id probably use bends from kteller.com, but for low boost i think any bend but crincle bends should do fine.

edit: ive been up for a long long time, so please excuse the poor spelling
</TD></TR></TABLE>
yeah if you're running like 8psi or less.. piping aint gonna matter much.
yes 8psi makes a huge difference on our motors,
but it is still just 8psi of pressure.
remember most stock turbo cars run around 9-11psi stock,
and they come with those tiny intercoolers and goofy plastic charge lines..
i'd say, if its a custom kit, and low boost.. and you arent going to upgrade in the future WHILE reusing the same piping(ykno in most cases if you go better you'd probly have to change the piping out anyways), then just do whats cheapest.
spend the money on things to make it a safe/reliable setup.
edit: ive been up for a long long time, so please excuse the poor spelling
</TD></TR></TABLE>yeah if you're running like 8psi or less.. piping aint gonna matter much.
yes 8psi makes a huge difference on our motors,
but it is still just 8psi of pressure.
remember most stock turbo cars run around 9-11psi stock,
and they come with those tiny intercoolers and goofy plastic charge lines..
i'd say, if its a custom kit, and low boost.. and you arent going to upgrade in the future WHILE reusing the same piping(ykno in most cases if you go better you'd probly have to change the piping out anyways), then just do whats cheapest.
spend the money on things to make it a safe/reliable setup.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tad »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
yes 8psi makes a huge difference on our motors,
but it is still just 8psi of pressure.</TD></TR></TABLE>
IMHO, pressure is not all that important with charge-pipe-designs. What's really important is that the pipes will, with as little as possible restriction, flow those lbs/min of air as his engine requires. This also obviously means, as little as possible pressure drop over the pipes.
yes 8psi makes a huge difference on our motors,
but it is still just 8psi of pressure.</TD></TR></TABLE>
IMHO, pressure is not all that important with charge-pipe-designs. What's really important is that the pipes will, with as little as possible restriction, flow those lbs/min of air as his engine requires. This also obviously means, as little as possible pressure drop over the pipes.
I offer custom intercooler fabrication if you are interested.
Here is a kit i did for an EG running the sidewinder manifold.

All piping comes with the heavy duty blue silicone couplers, t-bolt clamps, bead welded ends to prevent pipes from blowing off, BOV flange, and the option of Mild steel (aluminized), aluminum, or stainless steel piping for 2.25 or 2.5" applications.
Here is a kit i did for an EG running the sidewinder manifold.

All piping comes with the heavy duty blue silicone couplers, t-bolt clamps, bead welded ends to prevent pipes from blowing off, BOV flange, and the option of Mild steel (aluminized), aluminum, or stainless steel piping for 2.25 or 2.5" applications.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PrecisionH23a »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I offer custom intercooler fabrication if you are interested.
Here is a kit i did for an EG running the sidewinder manifold.

All piping comes with the heavy duty blue silicone couplers, t-bolt clamps, bead welded ends to prevent pipes from blowing off, BOV flange, and the option of Mild steel (aluminized), aluminum, or stainless steel piping for 2.25 or 2.5" applications.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Looks good I think and comes with what you need.
Here is a kit i did for an EG running the sidewinder manifold.

All piping comes with the heavy duty blue silicone couplers, t-bolt clamps, bead welded ends to prevent pipes from blowing off, BOV flange, and the option of Mild steel (aluminized), aluminum, or stainless steel piping for 2.25 or 2.5" applications.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Looks good I think and comes with what you need.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PrecisionH23a »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I offer custom intercooler fabrication if you are interested.
Here is a kit i did for an EG running the sidewinder manifold.

All piping comes with the heavy duty blue silicone couplers, t-bolt clamps, bead welded ends to prevent pipes from blowing off, BOV flange, and the option of Mild steel (aluminized), aluminum, or stainless steel piping for 2.25 or 2.5" applications.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Dude, wash your feet.
Here is a kit i did for an EG running the sidewinder manifold.

All piping comes with the heavy duty blue silicone couplers, t-bolt clamps, bead welded ends to prevent pipes from blowing off, BOV flange, and the option of Mild steel (aluminized), aluminum, or stainless steel piping for 2.25 or 2.5" applications.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Dude, wash your feet.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SiRex91 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Just do the DIY JC Whitney intercooler piping. If you want the "seamless" look grind down your welds, bondo the piping and get it powder coated. That's how the Harley guys do it
</TD></TR></TABLE>
You can't bondo something and get it powdercoated. the Bondo would never survive the heat of powdercaoting and the powdercoat is baked onto the metal so all surface debris must be removed.
Just do the DIY JC Whitney intercooler piping. If you want the "seamless" look grind down your welds, bondo the piping and get it powder coated. That's how the Harley guys do it
</TD></TR></TABLE>You can't bondo something and get it powdercoated. the Bondo would never survive the heat of powdercaoting and the powdercoat is baked onto the metal so all surface debris must be removed.
Powdercoat won't stick to Bondo anyway. Only metal.
The proper "show quality" way to do it is weld, grind the welds, then braze the joints with copper.
But even with raw welds, the pipes will look much better than crush bends.
The proper "show quality" way to do it is weld, grind the welds, then braze the joints with copper.
But even with raw welds, the pipes will look much better than crush bends.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sohc Driver »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Crush bend pipes will cause turbulance and disrupt flow..go for mandrel bend pipes.
Khoi</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes, mandrel bent will be much easier to make power and easier on your turbo.
Khoi</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes, mandrel bent will be much easier to make power and easier on your turbo.
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