I just did my swap a couple days ago and wasn't having any codes until just this morning. On the way to work I threw a code 12 and 41. The O2 sensor is going to be easy(its one of those cheapo BOSCH universals) GARBAGE!!! Anyways, the other code was code 12(EGR Lift Sensor) Does anyone know where this is located? Anyone else have this problem? I am also getting a pulsing throughout the powerband. I will hit Vtec and it will pull but hesitate and then pull hard and then hesitate. This intermitant to. Any clue? Could this be the 02 sensor? Thanks!

 

Finally, someone who is having the same problem as me....although, im only throwing a code 12, and a 36 (traction control), and i'm getting the hesitations as well. The EGR lift solenoid is located on top of the intake manifold. There is also another control solenoid next to the drivers side motor mount. I have tried everything, except replacing the EGR solenoid, to fix it. Unplugging the connector on the solenoid seems to reduce the hesitations though, but could be coincidence.


Someone on here has to know....

 

It's a pain in the *** isn't it? I have been thinking that it was the 02 sensor but now im having second thoughts. After work I am going to try and unplug my EGR and see if it does the trick. I hear you really do not even need the EGR valve as long as you are not in a state that does Emission checks.If ANYONE has any info or has had the same problem as us and has fixed it, please help some fellow H-T members out.

 

You need the egr valve so don't just go throw it away. And the car runs different with it unpluged because the computer uses a constant value for the valve instead of what it should be reading. So it will work well in some rpms and not in others. Sometimes you can get lucky and pull it off, and clean it out with some carb cleaner and it will work again. If not, your stuck replacing it.

 

If thats the case, and valve is shot, will the F22 EGR valve fit on the H22? Also, eurobro, did you swap the A6 and A11 pins on the ECU? Code 12 (EGR) and code 41 (O2 heater) are controlled by those pins.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MackDad &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If thats the case, and valve is shot, will the F22 EGR valve fit on the H22? Also, eurobro, did you swap the A6 and A11 pins on the ECU? Code 12 (EGR) and code 41 (O2 heater) are controlled by those pins.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Ahh, I am not sure if those pins were swapped out. My buddy did all my wiring and etc... I will double check with him to see if that was done. Thanks for the info!

 

Are you saying that I AM supposed to swap out those two pins or are you saying did I on accident and that is why it's acting the way it is and throwing a code?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MackDad &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If thats the case, and valve is shot, will the F22 EGR valve fit on the H22? Also, eurobro, did you swap the A6 and A11 pins on the ECU? Code 12 (EGR) and code 41 (O2 heater) are controlled by those pins.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

You are supposed to swap the pins...

Come on, someone on here has to have a valid answer on this situation!! heh

 

Not sure about the CODE 12 since I dont have reader, but I have this exact problem right now. I was attributing it to my supercharger setup but this sounds more like it. I only have 50k miles so I didnt really even think of the EGR till now. I get this hessitation as I accelerate. At higher RPM's it either goes away or becomes un-noticeable. That sound like the same thing?

 

No, mine WAS doing it all the time even in the high RPM's until just last night we replaced my distributer. That solved my problems with the hesitation. And for the EGR I just unplugged it. Check engine light is on but, my friend says you really do not need the EGR.And as for the 02 sensor code, it is not throwing it anymore, weird I think but I am happy! Thanks guys for the help.

 

You replaced the distributor with a new one, or the one from your F22? I'm gonna try and sneak by with just a cap and rotor and see if that solves the problem....

 

I swapped it back to my original H22 one. My friend while installing it thought something was wrong with the distributer and swapped it for one of the ones laying around his shop and it was bad(coil.) So we swapped back to my orginal one and everything is G-raaavy!

 

All this talk about codes has me interested, how dow I make my 90 accord flash the code that is responsible for the engine light being on? Thanks, Hal... Were do I find a list of code definitions?

 

I have similar problem with my 91 Honda Accord EX coupe (automatic) it runs rough between 1500-2000 RPM under light load.

I first thought it was a bad cap & rotor so I gave it a full tune up (new NGK plugs, rotor, cap, fuel & air filter, oil change and checked timing), problem continued.

I thought maybe it was the o2 sensor so I replaced it, problem continued.

I checked the ECU for codes and none appered.

I checked the EGR and it seems to be operating correctly although problems stops if I plug hose, so I replaced, no change. (Note: I used salvage part, looked new)

I then changed the purge cut off solenoid, EGR control solenoid and constant vacuum control (CVC) valve. NO CHANGE! (Note: same as above)

I cleaned the ports, same deal. Just for ***** and gigles I replaced the MAP sensor and canistor but no change.

The last thing I did was fill up with 93 octane and added a penzoil injector concentrate cleaner on top of an already added lucas injector cleaner and it seems to have diminish. We'll see how it resonds as we consume the tank.

Bizare ain't it! I'm trully stumped with this problem! Any suggestions would be appreciated!

 

Im not sure where your plug is to jump with a paper clip but, mine was right behind the glove box in my 97 Accord. Take that and stick a paper clip the the two holes and turn your car to the ACC position(which is right before you start it) then it will flash the check engine light in a sequence.(First it will flash a series of long pulses and then it will do the short.) Example would be 3 long and 2 short. This would be a coad 32. Next step would be to go to the search feature and find out a link to a list of codes and find the number and it will tell you which code you are throwing by matching the 32 up next to it.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MadViking &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">All this talk about codes has me interested, how dow I make my 90 accord flash the code that is responsible for the engine light being on? Thanks, Hal... Were do I find a list of code definitions?</TD></TR></TABLE>