Hello all,

Since I bent valves in my DPR dtage VI head in thanksgiving. I'm going to have the stock head and cams swapped back in along with some forged rods and pistons in order to go FI in the spring. My goal is to run consistant mid-13's (obviously faster is OK too ) but am undecided on what turbo or SC kit to use, or if I should piece together a turbo kit. Right now I am leaning towards a turbo kit such as Drag or Rev Hard, but would like to hear what others think and why. Here's the way I see it now...

Drag/Rev Hard Kit - Well thought out kits but come with some parts I'd want to replace, inflating the cost. Plenty of potential to upgrade but should be very reliable at the 6-8psi I'd need to run with proper engine management and some basic tuning.

Custom Turbo Kit - Should be cheaper than a factory kit but I will have to source all the pieces and make sure they fit together and am sure to run into some issues. I would be able to select each component individually so I could buy only what I need.

GReddy Turbo Kit - Well thought out, high quality and reliable but without as much potential as the other kits and more expensive.

JRSC - Thoeretically lower maintanance than a turbo. Detonation is a problem. No intercooler. Would still need a better engine mgmt system and a smaller pulley to reach my goal. All bugs are well know and solutions have been found to most (if not all) so little experimentation would be needed.

Vortec SC - Aftercooled, upgradable, great top end. Not so great low end and new so all the bugs and issues probably have not been worked out.

Thanks for the opinions!

 

well by process of elimination:

JRSC = ***, constant problems with detonation and not much power.

Vortech SC = mabye a little bit better then a JRSC but still pretty much ***. SC's and 4 bangers dont mix, unless youve got some N2o to back it up.

Greddy kit = good kit, clean, reliable, very well suited for a low maintanance vehicle. However with the small turbo, the restrictive manifold, the small DP, and the FCU, it is limited in it potential.

Drag kit = everyone has one, everyone seems to be happy with it, most componenets are good accept the manifold tends to crack and the deltagate is pretty much ***.

Rev hard kit = seems to make the most HP, just ask Arturbo. I believe slapping a rev hard kit on a stock GSR VS a DRAG kit on a stock GSR, the rev hard equipped vehicle will win.

Fmax kit= pretty much ***. Turbo is a little bit large, manifold is a gay design, and there fuel setup is kinda wack.

I'll probably get flamed for my opinions, I usually do but I dont care, these are my opinions.

 

if i had to choose id probably go with the rev-hard..you should look into getting a hondata with that too...get some slicks also. With all that youll have 13's NO problemo

 

the greddy turbo is not small.
ask the DSM guys how "small" the 18g is they'll laugh at ya.

 

greddy turbo = small. Sorry but it's the honest truth, it could flow better. I'm happy with my BB drag kit, and it's netted me mid/high 13's on my LS with moderate boost.

 

the honest truth for who.
most eclipses running 11's and 12's are pushing the 16g with +20 PSI..you're telling me the 18g is small?

it's not small, the drag is OVERSIZED. guarantee you 8psi vs 8psi, on the TRACK, the greddy will net similar or BETTER times.

 

Yeah, right now I'd have to say the rev hard is the leading candidate since the manifold seems to be the best quality out of all the kits. I would almost definitely be picking up a Hondata and J&S to make sure everything runs smoothly. WHat pieces would I have to toss besides (I'm guessing) an FMU and the Deltagate? Also, I'm surprised that there aren't any companies that alow you to select some of the components included in their kit. I had previously consided getting a Miata and the Flying Miata kits have many different variations you can select from.

Thanks for the input everyone!

 

hehe OK

you are aware that a turbo honda is virtually non comparable to a factory turbo DSM

 

who says you need a turbo to run reliable 13's

 

yeah, forced induction is great if you want a full on drag car(turbo) or a good car for track racing or rally(JRSC), HOWEVER, if you are just interested in a 13 second 1/4 mile... A Civic with a engine swap will give you just that. A stock engine will no doubt be safer than any forced induction and eg civics with a gsr(b18c1) swap and basic bolt ons and tuning can easily run 13's all day long SAFELY! Plus, if that aint your cup of tea and you want more speed... you can still turbo or supercharge or use nitrous.
If i were to get another rice rocket, that is what i will do.

 

True, true. The thing is right now my 98 teg is disabled with the bent valves, so I'd need to have some work done to get it on the road regardless. Plus it was my first new car so I'm somewhat attached. I already tried the NA route without trmendous success, so I'm thinking I'l give the dark side a shot this time around.

 

actually most DSM's are using 16G's, and that's just fine for them. 18G is actually pretty big and can flow well but people opt for something like a 20G because price difference is minimal. 18G is fairly small, compared to say a Frank 5 turbo, but that's DSM's... totally different story than Hondas.

 

Throw the nos plate kit and run 100 shot your car will be da shiet!!!!!!! its a lot cheaper to, well just my opinion

 

Nitrous scares me since the one guy I knew running it burnt a valve pretty quickly. I know there's tons of people who have has success with it, but it seems like 6-8psi on a turbo is safer from the anecdotal evidence I've seen.

 

cmon immortal you should know dsm and a gsr motors have different characteristics and powerbands. simply put: greddy turbo cannot handle 8000+ rpms


[Modified by 01geeser, 9:03 PM 11/26/2001]

 

good thing i redline right about there.

 

You have to remember that even though the Mitsu engine is "bigger", the GSR will demand more flow from the turbo because we're turning higher RPMs and have more efficient head design among other things (notice that a GSR with a T3/4 kit will pretty much annihilate a DSM running twice the boost? DIFFERENT FLOW CHARACTERISTICS!!); it's precisely that additional volume of air that a 16G or 18G can NOT deliver; it drops out of its efficiency band and you have a really nice intake charge heater. Those little babies can turn VERY high boost on the DSM engine but on a VTEC power band honda they're just out of their element. If you really want to run a compressor at its 55 or 60% efficiency band then go right ahead; I'll stick with a T4 compressor that's at 80% eff. when I'm making my power, thank you very much.