LS/VTEC boggs and stutters useing a JDM b16a ECU?????
My ls/vtec stuttters when i hook up my b16a ECU J spec? im just using my stock CX harness and wireing the vtec straight to the ECU and it stutters and wont go anywere sounds like the car is dieing and not enough gas....but when i stick my stock CX ecu in it runs fine and then i put in a LS ecu it runs fine also. I also stuck in a civic si 92-95 SOHC vtec ecu does same thing as the b16a ecu stutters. Engine codes reads OXYGEN SENSER and VTEC when i put in the vtec ecu's but no codes come up when i put in the non vtec ecu's. LS/VTEC block i have is 90-93 teg bottom block and 99-00 si head ANY HELP ON THIS or can anyone find me a thread off the archive i can read up on?
WEll not exactly, My fren who has a TURBO CHARGED TEG said that his LS doesnt have a KNOCK sensor He says mines doesnt have one either! im stumped.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dirtyd463 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yeah but hte VTEC ecu requires one</TD></TR></TABLE>
teh p28 doesnt require a knock sensor. since you're getting codes for vtec, make sure you're wires are run correctly (solenoid, oilpressure switch + and -)
teh p28 doesnt require a knock sensor. since you're getting codes for vtec, make sure you're wires are run correctly (solenoid, oilpressure switch + and -)
YEA im pretty sure i did every thing right... BUT you guys are forgetting something. My car stutters and boggs like its going to die and when u press on the gas full throttle it revs to 2-3k rpm and stops(sounds like it doesnt have gas going to it) then it picks up really really slow till like 5k rpm and revs fast after wards. i mean i had this same motor in my CRX and there wasnt any problems with it, just stuck in my b16a ECU wired up the vtec and BAM its done runs great and was very fast, now i stick it in my civic and got a b16a ecu and it starts to give me problems? GOD DAMN IT.
your ecu is most likely gone, try to put the same ecu in a friends car and if the ecu is gone then it will do the same thing, then it did in yours.
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think about this
the car runs fine with NON-VTEC ecus!!!
your new wiring is causing the problem
make sure
obd1
A4 VTEC solenoid
D3 KNOCK
D6 VTEC pressure
the car runs fine with NON-VTEC ecus!!!
your new wiring is causing the problem
make sure
obd1
A4 VTEC solenoid
D3 KNOCK
D6 VTEC pressure
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Cnote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">think about this
the car runs fine with NON-VTEC ecus!!!
your new wiring is causing the problem
make sure
obd1
A4 VTEC solenoid
D3 KNOCK
D6 VTEC pressure</TD></TR></TABLE>
i wanna know also in the process of doing a crvtec this weekend. A4, D3, D6. what do thay mean the year of a car or obd?? fill me in..
the car runs fine with NON-VTEC ecus!!!
your new wiring is causing the problem
make sure
obd1
A4 VTEC solenoid
D3 KNOCK
D6 VTEC pressure</TD></TR></TABLE>
i wanna know also in the process of doing a crvtec this weekend. A4, D3, D6. what do thay mean the year of a car or obd?? fill me in..
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bpowa »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
i wanna know also in the process of doing a crvtec this weekend. A4, D3, D6. what do thay mean the year of a car or obd?? fill me in..</TD></TR></TABLE>
pins on the ECU. where you wire them into if you are splitting from the harness (running individual wires).
X-eric-X
i wanna know also in the process of doing a crvtec this weekend. A4, D3, D6. what do thay mean the year of a car or obd?? fill me in..</TD></TR></TABLE>
pins on the ECU. where you wire them into if you are splitting from the harness (running individual wires).
X-eric-X
Do you have a 4 wire ECU, also you shouldn't be running that motor with anything less then LS ECU your will run lean as a ****. Get a p28 and mess around with uberdata to get that thing tuned. Second of all are you running 4 wire o2. I think a b series requiers that. And obviously you got your vtec hooked up wrong. I don't think your pal knows what he is doing neither, and if he built that motor I would be scared to drive that car.
Are you talking to me ABK? first of all, my fren doesnt deal with the LS/vtec he never delt with a ls/vtec before and he does somewat know wat he is doing and YES all my pins are hooked up right, double checked everything many times. And theres only 3 wires for the vtec to run properly green/vtec oile pressure and ground, im useing a different plug so the wires arent the same color as it should be but i switched those around and still the same results. I did also stick the b16a ECU into my brothers civic which has a b20 in it and it runs fine. Im thinking its the O2 but im useing a b18a bottom block with stock headers and and the same O2 sensor is still there which is a 1 wire one, But my stock cx motor had a 1wire O2 too.
Not running the vtec shouldnt make my car STUTTER so bad though right? Or am i wrong on that. Guessing it could be the ECU but then again maybe not cause it doesnt do that in my bros car. i have the p28 ECU in my car right now and it doesnt stutter as bad as the b16a ecu just laggs a bit during 1k-3k rpm.
Not running the vtec shouldnt make my car STUTTER so bad though right? Or am i wrong on that. Guessing it could be the ECU but then again maybe not cause it doesnt do that in my bros car. i have the p28 ECU in my car right now and it doesnt stutter as bad as the b16a ecu just laggs a bit during 1k-3k rpm.
search I think you need to run 4 wire o2. From my experience is when you run 1 wire o2 on ecu that requires 4 wire o2 you car will idle funny and bog. Run rich too. your cx ecu use 1 wire o2 that's the reason why they might not studer. But p28 and b16 ecu use 4 wire. And again don't use stock p28 or stock cx or stock b16 ecu on that motor. You might damage it, motor might be running too lean.
aight i guess i should stick my stock CX ecu back in then since i still have my p28 ecu plugged in. im gonna make a trip to local racing shop for my buddy to re wire the O2 straight into the b16a ECU. well see wat the results are tommorow.
AIGHT......heres the conclusion to this....check engine says that the O2 sensor was totally fucked since my CX harness runs a 1 wire O2 and the p30 ecu requires a 4 wire O2, so i RIGGED my CX harness to run a 4 wire O2 sensor. right thinking that everything would be fine and my car shouldnt bogg any more since people who ive talked to who has done ls/vtec said that most likely since my car boggs when i stick a vtec ecu in is because the ecu requires a 4 wire O2 and my harness is only a 1 wire O2, well i solved that problem check engine doesnt say that i have O2 problems anymore just vtec but i didnt hook up vtec yet. And mechanics who has done ls/vtec i talked to says that your car shouldnt bogg just becuase your vtec isnt hooked up, if your vtec isnt hooked up then vtec wont run or work thats it, but it shouldnt make your car STUTTER and bogg like its doing now they said. Now im stumped! i have no idea on wats going on when i stick a vtec ecu in, im thinking i might need a ADJUSTABLE fuel pressure regulator and adjust the fuel a tad bit to make it going just fine. But f any body has and ideas please let me know? thanks
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GTA »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">AIGHT......heres the conclusion to this....check engine says that the O2 sensor was totally fucked since my CX harness runs a 1 wire O2 and the p30 ecu requires a 4 wire O2, so i RIGGED my CX harness to run a 4 wire O2 sensor. right thinking that everything would be fine and my car shouldnt bogg any more since people who ive talked to who has done ls/vtec said that most likely since my car boggs when i stick a vtec ecu in is because the ecu requires a 4 wire O2 and my harness is only a 1 wire O2, well i solved that problem check engine doesnt say that i have O2 problems anymore just vtec but i didnt hook up vtec yet. And mechanics who has done ls/vtec i talked to says that your car shouldnt bogg just becuase your vtec isnt hooked up, if your vtec isnt hooked up then vtec wont run or work thats it, but it shouldnt make your car STUTTER and bogg like its doing now they said. Now im stumped! i have no idea on wats going on when i stick a vtec ecu in, im thinking i might need a ADJUSTABLE fuel pressure regulator and adjust the fuel a tad bit to make it going just fine. But f any body has and ideas please let me know? thanks</TD></TR></TABLE>
how about you get the wiring right making sure that vtec is really wired in right...of course its going to studder with a vtec ecu THROWING A VTEC CEL....what are you thinking..check your wiring 20x then when your not throwing any cels come back..
btw i had a friend throw o2 sensor cels all day and vtec still kicked hard as hell... funny cause he didnt have an o2 sensor...
how about you get the wiring right making sure that vtec is really wired in right...of course its going to studder with a vtec ecu THROWING A VTEC CEL....what are you thinking..check your wiring 20x then when your not throwing any cels come back..
btw i had a friend throw o2 sensor cels all day and vtec still kicked hard as hell... funny cause he didnt have an o2 sensor...
1st thing you should do is fix all the cel then figure out the bogging problems. if you don't fix the cel then there is not use to figure out the bogging problems cause you are going round and round in the circle.
you will still hit vtec with a no o2 sensor you will just bogg like crazy and stall at idle. also he can't hit his vtec yet because it's not wired up yet. And for your fuel problems why don't you just get your ECU chipped for LS/VTEC instead of b16a2, as I believe I stated above it was prolly choking you shitless.
the easiest way to solve the problem is get a VTEC engine harness from a GSR or Del Sol VTEC or heck even a SI or EX from a 92-95 civic
Yes im positive i checked all my wires right all plugged in. it wouldnt matter if i get a vtec harness i still would have to run the vtec wire to the harness and back into the ECU, cause my cars wire harness( the one that the engine harness connects to going threw the fire wall ) doesnt have a vtec line running to the ecu its just a blank. BUTTT...............i do remember having my MOTOR tipped over and FALLING ON MY HEAD while on the engine hoist( still have a big *** SCAR from it behind my ear) and my vtec solinoid has a dent in it but doesnt look to bad, just looks as if the solonoid cover is dented. Maybe i might of fucked my vtec solonoid up! Cause i checked everything millions of times my vtec wireing and all still says im thoring vtec solonoid code on check engine. is there a way to see if my solonoid is still in proper working order?
I suggest that you check all vacuum lines leading to the intake manifold and the map sensor.See if the lines are getting the right vacuum needed.If that doesn't work try useing a matching(OR COMPATIBLE) distributer and ECU and start swapping them out.
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