I'm plannin on buildin up my b18b by purchasing some 404's with Valve springs/retainers, AEM cam gears...but would it be safe with stock pistons, rods, etc.? And it idles like stock if I set the cam gears to 0,0? Well, I don't wanna spin out any bearings or damage my engine in anyway. My current setup is i/h/e/fpr/hondata/organic clutch + short shifter...and I have about...100k on my engine...and I would like this to be daily driven (I live in CA with stupid emissions and regulations). Thanks again guys.

 

hmmm.......i dont know how the 404's will be with emmisions. they might not get you passed an idle test cuz the engine idle's pretty crap on stock pistons/compression.

they really like increased compression. maybe with the hondata it can be tuned pretty good but they dont idle like stock with stock compression.

if you want it to be somewhat like stock then you should go with the 403's and have it tuned.

 

ahhh, I see...how does it idle like? what's "crap" for you? Haha, "crap" enough that I can't make em daily driven? that's interesting...I think StyleTeg and a few others said that it idled like stock, and then I hear others that say it idles like a "harley" or somethin....really interesting. I'm not sure who to believe, but I guess the safest route is the 403's?

 

My car idle felt completely stock inside the car. That was with cam timing at 0,0 and +1,-1 .

When I swapped in my B20 with out the cams, I noticed that what roughness I did feel was due to my motor mount inserts.

If you start getting extreme with the overlap, of cource its going to get worse and worse. But at those settings I doubt you will be making power in your powerband anyways.

You can use stock pistons and rods, just keep your stock redline. It wouldn't be a bad idea to mill the head for extra compression while your at it.

 

mill the head? how many inches? I heard it was dangerous if done so...so should I take it to a local machine shop and have them do it? What compression should I try to achieve to get the most out of the cams while keepin it daily driven? And what do you mean by extreme overlap?

 

the most you would want to safely mill the head is .030 it will raise your compression but not allot.

overlap is the time where the intake valve and exhaust valve are open at the same time. just as the exhaust valves are closing the intake valves opens to suck a little bit of the burnt exhaust gasses back into the chamber.

its just the way the cams are designed. it make good power this way but you sacrifice idle quality and emissions.

the more you advance the intake cam and retard the exhaust cam the more overlap you create.

hope this makes some kind of sense.....you can search for more info about this.

 

Thanks for the info btw, it's very helpful...I think I understand it better now (but maybe not enough as I should)...so I shouldn't advance or retard the timing a few degrees more than the original specs? But by how much exactly for emissions? or does it vary with every car?

 

i'm running 404's the idles is NOT bad at all, i have stock bottom block with a fully built head. u will have to retard ur timming if not tunning the ignition. it will run fine w/a fpr.