Ok, with every brake job / pad replacement, should you:

 

get new ones...**** turning them

 

you always want to turn your rotors or get new ones when you change your brakes...i usually just get new ones

 

Its actually cheaper to just get new ones they are like 10 bux each

 

You can get away with turning your rotors once but after they've been turned just get new ones when its time for another brake job. By the way, always turn the rotors or get new ones when the pads are being changed no matter what. If you don't then both the new pads and old rotors will wear down much fast and cause problems when your braking especially at high speed on the freeway/highway. i.e. cause your car to vibrate very violently like something is about to break when you hit the brakes at about 80-90 mph, and sooner if they are really in bad shape.

 

Depends on what condition the rotor surface is in. If you have grooves that you can catch your finger nail in turn the rotors, if not just replace the pads. If they are warped there usually isn't enough material to warrant turning.


Unlike most people on here I swear by OEM rotors, much better corrosion resistance (for in Canada) and the surface always looks mint. I should get 2 sets of pads on a set of rotors, no turning required.

I find Bembos tend to rust out prematurely, your milage may vary.

 

Thanks for the replies & votes.

I was having a discussion w/ my cousin about whether or not to turn the rotors w/ every brake job. He said that if they are grooved or warped, then turn them. If not, no need. And that it was a waste of money.

Me, I say do it every brake job just to make sure there are fresh surfaces for them to mate on. It cant hurt to turn them & it also gives a little piece of mind. And to me, that is worth the $$ I spent to have them turned.

However, I never thought to go as far as replacing them every brake job though. I didnt know that new ones were cheaper than turning them. I was wanting to replace them completly on my last brake job, but thought I wouldnt have the $$.

Anyways, Any more input would be great.

Thanks!

 

On our cars, the fronts are like $16 compared to like $10 for turning them. Kinda dumb to turn them.

 

i got a question about the rotor's.. lets say you have factory rotors (my car does) and everytime they were warped, they just got the rotor shaved, so its a "flat" surface again. and them gettin warped becasue they didnt let the breaks cool down before washing the car, or hard breaking constantly, blah blah..

if they were shaved alot, and i get new rotors, would the break pedal feel a little bit firmer, or wouldnt have to be pressed down as much/far to get good breaking?

or would that be all in the head?

 

While it is cheap to get no-name replacements, you are not replacing them because they are "warped". You are replacing them because they were not properly broken-in. Warped rotors is a VERY popular misconception, your wheel shakes from uneven pad deposits on the rotor surface. It also creates intense heat under these deposits that will change the iron compound on the surface. You turn the rotors to get rid of the deposits, and a layer of iron that has spots of Cementite in it. Also your rotors become grooved from the wear-indicators/pad rivits.

All of this is a result of imporper break-in/bedding. All pads come with detailed recommendations on how-to complete a bedding proceedure, and it does not involve driving like Granny for a few days. Most of them are a series of 10 runs with a gradual increase of pressure from 60-5mph with no full stops during the bedding. Also if you are using the wrong compound pad for your application, it is going to give you headaches with your rotors. Race pads are not ment for the street, where the temps need to make them effective are not practical for street use.

Please read:
http://www.g2ic.com/forums/sho...pp=20