I need help! I first bought my 99 honda accord ex, in virginia wihtout knowing anything about hooking cars up. i put a airmass header and a 2.5 inch catback on with a magnaflow high flow catalyc converter on and the check engine light came on and the carwas running like crap so i put the stock catalyc converter back on the car and the check engine light went off and the car started running right except right away i could feel the difference in power in a bad way. i called a'pexi about a vtec controler and they said that they haven't even done any test with my car and also that it probably wouldn't do any good anyways! jeeezz what am i suppossed to do? am i screwed with this engine? does any body offer computer units that manipulate the emisions? any advice or recomenndations will be greatly appreciated. thanks

 

how fast do you wanna go??

 

well thats a good question, i don't race but i would like to make my car as fast as i can with out spending a fortune. i need to know if i should buy a vtec controllerand if it will even make a differenc, and i need to find a legit way to override this damn ultra low emissions, i don't have to worry about registration and emission it's all legal, once i take care of the sensitivty of my cpu any thing is fair game!!!!!

 

You don't really want to adjust your V-TEC. It would sound cool if you hit V-TEC at 2500 RPM, but it's just not healthy for your engine and it still wouldn't work right. However, adjusting your VTEC to a higher or lower rpm within a good range is good. Yes i said higher. The Acura NSX has this problem of always being a few hundred RPM shy of VTEC after shifting, so one of the first modifications NSX guys do is adjust the VTEC (i dont remember how) so it stays consistent with their shift points so they stay in VTEC consistently through shifts.

I know that that's a bunch of crap about the top of the line NSX and you have an accord like we do, but it's a thought. Look at your shift behavior and you can fiddle with it marginally for a better response through the shifting. I would use Hondata or Uberdata for this. A basic Hondata tune might also take care of your problem concerning emissions because you can convert your car to running OBD-1 which will be good for getting rid of that catalytic converter and putting in the high flow one.

Another thing you might think about since you're on a budget is a pulley kit. No one really sees horsepower (1-3 average), but it is a good idea. A good set from unorthodox racing or AEM comes in handy. It puts less stress on your engine, plus instead of gaining horsepower, youll see an increase in acceleration ie you'll go faster quicker, marginally. But i mean every bit helps...

Oh, Hondata applies to a manual accord only, damn things are tough as a bitch to get to work on auto's.

If you do get serious just turbo the poor sunofabitch.

 

STOP BUYING SIMPLE BOLT ONS!!!!!!!!!

They are a waste of money for your 4banger ULEV. Save up for a turbo kit and it will pay off greatly!!!!

 

Boost that bitch.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Crono139 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Boost that bitch.</TD></TR></TABLE>



a VTEC (note the lack of a hyphen) controller 1) wont do anything and 2) i dont think they even work for SOHC engine cuz vtec comes on at different rpms vs. a set rpm like an h22 (5000 rpm i believe)

ur not gonna gain much w/ bolt ons and after $1000 or so u'll be very disappointed, spend another 2k for a turbo kit for actual gains w/o even having to mess w/ internals

also, i dont think u said but if its an auto change to manual and if its manual then i guess u can check that one off the list

 

Alright, stop chewin' him out because he's doing the right thing. He has an exhaust + high flow cat. I would prefer testpipe but whatever works. Running a turbo through your stock exhaust system isn't a good idea, that's for sure. You'll be making 40hp over stock, if you dont detonate your motor with that 1 1/4 inch pipe you got for a stock exhaust.

Now, by your car running bad, what did you mean? I would get a testpipe and O2 bung to avoid that CEL.

The simple fix can also be getting an O2 Simulator, to make your car think that the O2 sensor is plugged in and operating, because that high flow catalytic converter sounds pretty crappy if you ask me.

Get one of these, then save for a turbo.
http://www.kteller.com/store/p...d/208

 

get hondata and upgrade your fuel. Probably leaning out, unless your hi-flow isn't sending enough voltage up through the O2 secondary.

Good luck.

 

Hey thanks alot! I just bought a 0-2 simulater and will soon buy a thru pipe. Any suggestions on that turbo or nitro boost? also if I did turbo or nitro would my 4 banger even be able to handle it? it's a nice car but the engine worries me, also it's an automatic. I know, I know everybody says get a new car but that's not going to happen anytime soon. So any advice will help, you don't know how long I've been trying to find anything that will get rid of that damn 0-2 problem, thanks alot!

 

if it's auto, nitrous would be better. You can run it at any point. Turbo, which is what I have on my auto, isnt a wise choice. You can only run minimal boost on the auto tranny, and you'd need a tranny cooler.

 

Alright, first off, your accord will never be really fast, I have the same generation accord as you do, so I know. If you want a reliable car that has a little more spunk than it did before, get a GOOD (AEM, Injen) Cold air, not some cheap ****, Get a GOOD (DC sports) header, and a GOOD exhaust. A high flow cat does not work properly on a OBD2 car, so don't even try. someone has told you to switch to an OBD1 ECU and go with Hondata. There is at least $1000 and you may gain about 10hp without some other serious mods. If you want to get a little more power, go with a S-AFC. The V-AFC is more money and it won't do shat for you anyway. This is cheaper than hondata, your car remains legal and reliable and you could concievably gain just as much horsepower. Hondata is great for FI cars, but even then, you might as well go with Emanage because you can keep you stock ECU. also, when you go with an older computer, you may loose some of the features that make your car nice to drive. I have turbo'd my accord, and yes, it is faster than what simple bolt-ons will produce, but it's a bitch sometimes, it was hard to tune, I have to wait for it to warm up and cool down and if I screw up and accidentally get regular fuel in it for some reason or another and then go and crank up the boost I'll be looking for a new motor. (but if you still want to do that, it's hella fun)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by h22abuyer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Alright, first off, your accord will never be really fast,

that is not true and you have no proof to back it up

I have the same generation accord as you do, so I know. If you want a reliable car that has a little more spunk than it did before, get a GOOD (AEM, Injen) Cold air, not some cheap ****, Get a GOOD (DC sports) header, and a GOOD exhaust.

a cheap ebay intake with a good filter is just as good as an AEM or an injen so no he does not need to buy one of those

A high flow cat does not work properly on a OBD2 car, so don't even try. someone has told you to switch to an OBD1 ECU and go with Hondata.

that is very worth it in the long run. as long as he is wanting to mod his car further

There is at least $1000 and you may gain about 10hp without some other serious mods. If you want to get a little more power, go with a S-AFC. The V-AFC is more money and it won't do shat for you anyway. This is cheaper than hondata, your car remains legal and reliable and you could concievably gain just as much horsepower. Hondata is great for FI cars,

It is great for N/A cars as well

but even then, you might as well go with Emanage because you can keep you stock ECU. also, when you go with an older computer, you may loose some of the features that make your car nice to drive.

what could he lose that would make his car not nice to drive?

I have turbo'd my accord, and yes, it is faster than what simple bolt-ons will produce, but it's a bitch sometimes, it was hard to tune, I have to wait for it to warm up and cool down and if I screw up and accidentally get regular fuel in it for some reason or another and then go and crank up the boost I'll be looking for a new motor.

those things right ^ are the things you have to put up with when you mod a car it is just the facts of life.

(but if you still want to do that, it's hella fun)</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by h22abuyer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Alright, first off, your accord will never be really fast, I have the same generation accord as you do, so I know. If you want a reliable car that has a little more spunk than it did before, get a GOOD (AEM, Injen) Cold air, not some cheap ****, Get a GOOD (DC sports) header, and a GOOD exhaust. A high flow cat does not work properly on a OBD2 car, so don't even try. someone has told you to switch to an OBD1 ECU and go with Hondata. There is at least $1000 and you may gain about 10hp without some other serious mods. If you want to get a little more power, go with a S-AFC. The V-AFC is more money and it won't do shat for you anyway. This is cheaper than hondata, your car remains legal and reliable and you could concievably gain just as much horsepower. Hondata is great for FI cars, but even then, you might as well go with Emanage because you can keep you stock ECU. also, when you go with an older computer, you may loose some of the features that make your car nice to drive. I have turbo'd my accord, and yes, it is faster than what simple bolt-ons will produce, but it's a bitch sometimes, it was hard to tune, I have to wait for it to warm up and cool down and if I screw up and accidentally get regular fuel in it for some reason or another and then go and crank up the boost I'll be looking for a new motor. (but if you still want to do that, it's hella fun)</TD></TR></TABLE>

im aiming for you, tardcakes. DO NOT listen to this guy. dont spend all your money getting the expensive ****. its not worth it to spend 10 times the money for only a few ponies more. you have a good header, get an cheap intake for like 30-40 bucks, keep your exhaust.

 

A 2.5" collector on the header is always a good idea.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by h22abuyer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Alright, first off, your accord will never be really fast</TD></TR></TABLE>

say what...you obviously don't know **** about accords...

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by h22abuyer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have the same generation accord as you do, so I know. </TD></TR></TABLE>

well that makes you trustworthy...

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by h22abuyer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you want a reliable car that has a little more spunk than it did before, get a GOOD (AEM, Injen) Cold air, not some cheap ****</TD></TR></TABLE>

actually, the oem intake with a k&n filter is probably your best bet (minus the intake resonator mind you)...i have found it to flow better than a few aftermarket intakes (yes tested)...most likely because it draws air from a cooler region of the car, but still maintains short plumbing allowing for better breathing in the upper rpm's...this may affect you differently, though, b/c i have a motor that revs higher than yours...a cold air intake may in fact benefit you more since your motor has such a low redline...

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by h22abuyer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Get a GOOD (DC sports) header</TD></TR></TABLE>

this is what tops it off out of all of your statements...a GOOD header, as in DC sports?...yeah right...DC headers are shitty and crack easily...they also don't flow for **** with their tiny collectors...Greddy would rock DC's world, but custom would be your best bet (that is if you decide to stay NA)

anyways, don't listen to this clown that said all this ****...

 

I have a aem cold air intake with the filter that was sent to it , I just bougth an 02 simulater, and i want to put in a test pipe or thru pipe whatever? will it work, also i spent 250 on an airmass header, I have heard bad things about dc, and i know my car will never be realy fast but thats not what i want, i want my car to be faster than it is now, all advice is greatly appreciated trust me. but i called apexi and they told me that they havent even done any testing on the model and year of my accord and most people tell me that v-tec controllers wont even make a difference, i will pay for one if it will give me 10 horses but only if it wont set off my check engine light! also when you guys are talking about the resonater, are talking about the air intake? i have been told to put those little filters on but im not sure. also if waiting for my car to warm up and cool down more than average time, **** that, i had no idea that was part of the process, but i guess i better do my homework on nitro and turbo before i screw around, if any of you have messed around with a vtec controller let me know that price range would be my next step. thanks

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tony d &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if any of you have messed around with a vtec controller let me know that price range would be my next step. thanks</TD></TR></TABLE>

i'm currently using an apexi vafc...i'm not really using it to correct vtec though...it's more useful to make the modifications that you do to your car more reliable (and perhaps let them be used to their full potential) in my opinion...air fuel ratio tuning is essential to reliable performance...engaging the high cam in the vtec system (yes vtec is more than just a high profile cam engaging) isn't going to necessarily gain results...it might smooth your power band out a little bit and make the engagement of the high cam a little less noticeable, but it won't do anything for your top end power...perhaps messing with the a/f ratios might gain you 5hp max, but at what cost to the reliability of the motor...

if you are looking for a quick easy power adder, nitrous is definitely your best bet...it's relatively safe on the f series motors since our compression ratios are so low...good luck

 

whats a collector? seriously, i don't know what youre talking about.

 

Where all the primaries come together. You can enlarge it to a 2.5" and it helps it a lot.

 

What nitrous system would you suggest also , if this 02 simulater works great than i can go from there, if i did nitro do you think that it would set off the engine light?

 

NX wet kit.