Last night Mickey and I got my head put back together. I just installed a set of Toda Spec C's and we can not get the car to idle. I'm running a stock ECU (I know I need to change it) with a VAFC. The VAFC is currently set to stock. The car will sometimes start and idle on its own at about 350-400 RPMs. If I give it SOME gas (VAFC reading 10-16% throttle) it will run up to 900 RPMs. If I hit the gas, the car dies. I can not get it to go above 1000 RPMs. I did hold the gas at 20% one time and it SLOWLY crept up to 1100 rpms and then took off to 3000 RPMs. I let off the gas and it died.

We just got it started at about 10:00pm last night and I did not want to **** my neighbors off. I am going to look at a few things when I get home from work tonight. What do you guys think that I should check? I talked to Len last night and it looks like we have all of the sensors and hoses hooked back up right. I have less than a week 'til we leave for the Expo........

 

When did you get Cs!? What all did you do to the valve train?

 

what did you set the valve lash to? i have toda c myself and it idles normal...my valve lash when cold is 6 intake and on the ex...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mikes98typer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what did you set the valve lash to? i have toda c myself and it idles normal...my valve lash when cold is 6 intake and on the ex... </TD></TR></TABLE>

I set the valve lash to .203mm according to Toda's website:

All TODA Racing camshafts must be tuned using TODA adjustable campulleys to attain maximum performance. Valve lash for all cams is 0.2mm cold. Spec B & C camshafts require TODA valve springs. For Spec A camshafts, the following Honda/Acura valvetrain components maybe used up to 8400rpm on both the intake and exhaust side.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HybridHatch88 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">When did you get Cs!? What all did you do to the valve train?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

I just got them the other day. I'm running Skunk2 valve train for now...

 

Make sure the short plug that goes into the EVAP purge solenoid is hooked up properly.

You can hook it up in reverse by mistake as the plug ends are similar (I did) - and it won't idle right.

 

haha, you need to lean it out at idle. Here's a hint: the spec c's are identical to spec b's on the non-vtec lobes.

this is easy using the vafc narrow throttle settings. just make it -35% at 1000 rpms.

Hit me up with a pm if you need some good baseline settings for those cams.

please do yourself a favor and go get your car tuned asap. you don't want to damage anything!

i'd also suggest you upgrade (at a minimum) the injectors to prelude 97+ or 310 rc's... You might need even bigger ones (~450cc) if you are running higher than stock compression.

And need I mention that you'll need to raise the rev limiter by about 1000rpm as well.....? How about hondata or another standalone?

 

Check all your vacume lines and all the sensors to make sure they are hooked up.

 

Might sound silly, but its happened before...Got your plug wires in the right order? Also you might try to adjust your idle screw on your TB (temporary fix until getting tuned which should be asap!). A buddy of mine that was running JUN III's had a similar problem of his idle dying out, and that took care of it.

Does it do the same thing even when the car is warm? And Hondata ASAP would be a good idea, unless you're planning to go standalone.

 

Personally I would turn the engine to TDC compression and verify cam timing vs crank TDC...first then move on to more obvious things like connections, and hoses..then Vafc adjustments.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EKology &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Might sound silly, but its happened before...Got your plug wires in the right order? Also you might try to adjust your idle screw on your TB (temporary fix until getting tuned which should be asap!). A buddy of mine that was running JUN III's had a similar problem of his idle dying out, and that took care of it.

Does it do the same thing even when the car is warm? And Hondata ASAP would be a good idea, unless you're planning to go standalone. </TD></TR></TABLE>

check the wire order... I have seen this before...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by v-attack &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Personally I would turn the engine to TDC compression and verify cam timing vs crank TDC...first then move on to more obvious things like connections, and hoses..then Vafc adjustments. </TD></TR></TABLE> check timing

 

get that thing to jack already.

 

Toda C's are notorious for Idle problems. I have toda C's in 3 different motors and hade some kind of idle problems. Get yourself 310 or higher injectors quick before you mess something up, your car is not getting enough fuel. Whats your setup???

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by powerfulperformance &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Toda C's are notorious for Idle problems. I have toda C's in 3 different motors and hade some kind of idle problems. Get yourself 310 or higher injectors quick before you mess something up, your car is not getting enough fuel. Whats your setup???</TD></TR></TABLE>

i've driven a car with c's that had a rock solid , smooth idle at ~700rpm

 

Thanks to TJ and Mickey we got the car running PERFECTLY tonight. I'll post videos in the morning when I get to the office. Perfect idle, runs smooth, now has 24 miles on it...

Make sure you have the cams on the right teeth on the timing belt... Stupid mistake, but now it's all good. It goes to Jack next Thursday to be tuned. I need a way of raising the rev limiter now.......

 

That is exactly what I was thinking it was....cam timing vs. tdc for getting it running good

 

luckily you didn't **** anythin up

 

MINE work great and idea smooth at 900rpm.. I do have Hondata and a few dyno tuning sessions done though.. Good luck..
Kevin

 

Here are two videos of the car idling. Stock ECU with Toda Spec C's. Perfect 800 RPM's. Right click and save...

http://www.kosmodog.com/idle.mpg

http://www.kosmodog.com/idle2.mpg

http://www.kosmodog.com/idle3.mpg

 

Congratulations Brad, lets get it tuned now!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Fat Bradstard &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Here are two videos of the car idling. Stock ECU with Toda Spec C's. Perfect 800 RPM's. Right click and save...

http://www.kosmodog.com/idle.mpg

http://www.kosmodog.com/idle2.mpg

http://www.kosmodog.com/idle3.mpg</TD></TR></TABLE>

Whats the CEL for?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blykins &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Whats the CEL for?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I thought that was standard for all ITR's? I don't have a cat so I only have 1 O2 sensor. Gotta love no emissions or inspections in South Carolina.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Fat Bradstard &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I thought that was standard for all ITR's? I don't have a cat so I only have 1 O2 sensor. Gotta love no emissions or inspections in South Carolina. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Open downpipe, no O2 sensor

 

dope

 

DOPE