How high can you rev an H22 on stock bottom end?
I've heard that the components on the bottom end are the limiting factor in an H22, besides just the basic geometry of the bore, stroke, rod length, etc. By bottom end I mean rods, crank, bolts and cylinder liners are stock.
Reason I ask is because my buddy just did Stage 2 Cat cams with h/d Cat valvesprings and Ti retainers, gained 13 whp over his baseline and that was AT the stock redline of 7500 as shown on the tach (power was still climbing so the real gain is probably at least 15 whp). We took the car out later than night and wound it out to 7800 on the tach and it was still pulling reeeeally nice, but obviously he doesn't want to damage his motor if the bottom end can't take the higher engine speeds.
Any thoughts? Is 7800-8k rpm safe, or should he stick under 7500 most of the time unless he beefs up some of the components?
Reason I ask is because my buddy just did Stage 2 Cat cams with h/d Cat valvesprings and Ti retainers, gained 13 whp over his baseline and that was AT the stock redline of 7500 as shown on the tach (power was still climbing so the real gain is probably at least 15 whp). We took the car out later than night and wound it out to 7800 on the tach and it was still pulling reeeeally nice, but obviously he doesn't want to damage his motor if the bottom end can't take the higher engine speeds.
Any thoughts? Is 7800-8k rpm safe, or should he stick under 7500 most of the time unless he beefs up some of the components?
tach rpm=8000
real rpm=7500+/- a few
i believe
this is what most people are saying because the stock tach is off.....butt dyno is different from real dyno.
real rpm=7500+/- a few
i believe
this is what most people are saying because the stock tach is off.....butt dyno is different from real dyno.
I did crower stage 2 cams with the matching spring/retainer kit, and chipped my ECU to have the redline at 8100. I was on the stock components without any issues to the bottom end, and as far as I know the top end as well, even though I may have had some valve float if I ran it all the way up to the 8100 with the stock springs.
The weak point is the Auto-tensioner. I eventually had that fail on me, so when I rebuilt the motor last summer, adding the crower top end, type-s pistons, eagle rods, polished crank with new Clevite bearings, I did the manual-tensioner conversion as well. That is more reliable. If you search the Prelude forum, you'll find a number of posts on that.
Bottom line, the bottom end can probably handle the few hundred more rpms, but there are other components that can't, one of which, the sping/retainers, you've already upgraded.
The weak point is the Auto-tensioner. I eventually had that fail on me, so when I rebuilt the motor last summer, adding the crower top end, type-s pistons, eagle rods, polished crank with new Clevite bearings, I did the manual-tensioner conversion as well. That is more reliable. If you search the Prelude forum, you'll find a number of posts on that.
Bottom line, the bottom end can probably handle the few hundred more rpms, but there are other components that can't, one of which, the sping/retainers, you've already upgraded.
Yeah, the tach seems to be a bit goofy. The dyno operator ran the car up to 7500 on the tach but the dyno only showed 7250. My Volkswagen 16v is the same, if not worse.
Oh and BTW my friend has the H23 manual tensioner installed.
Anybdy got a dissenting opinion?
Oh and BTW my friend has the H23 manual tensioner installed.
Anybdy got a dissenting opinion?
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