how do i install this thing? just take out my stock strut bar and replace the 4 bolts? how much do i tighten? do i need a torque wrench or just tighten all the way?

 

you need to torque them, i'm not sure what the proper torque spec is cause my helms manual is in my car and i'm not going outside at 1am
but besides that, yes thats all you do.



[Modified by immortal, 1:00 AM 11/23/2001]

 

frick, i don't have a torque wrench, those things are outrageously expensive.

 

just tighten it really hard and you'll be fine

 

 

[ren voice] ehhhhhxellent [/ren voice]

 

17 lb-ft for the nuts.

 

yo its TrippnOut from EO, i get my car back next week, we should go at it... pretty much the same mods.. i only got a CAI!'
g2 vs g3 gsr.. both red.. ahhh swweeeetttt

 

Yes, just tighten it really hard and you'll be fine. While its important to torque every bolt, some are more important than others.

Every bolt has torque specs, but its not a life or death thing to get it right...cylinder heads are important, strut bars are not. Manifolds are important, interior trim pieces are not.

Every bolt has torque specs because some **** engineering supervisor said they had to

 

Although it's not the best quality out there, I actually picked up a pretty fair torque wrench at Advance Auto Parts for only $20 -- it's the clicky kind and works well. And, it's better tahn no torque wrench at all. You could always ask for one from Santa .

 

just slap some muscle into it I would not worrie about torqueing these to spek

 

what??? if you tighten them too hard you will strip them!!! some people just give shitty advise!
The torque spec is 16 ft-lbs.
Those bolts do not need to be very tight! The bar will not pull out! the force is transfered from side to side, horizontally!
Torque specs are important, specially while working inside the engine. Anyone that works on his car should have one. A good one only costs $50.

 

If you do not have a torque wrench, then try this. I know that it is not accurate at all, but it worked for me. When taking off the nuts from the GSR bar, try to apply about the same force when installing the new bar. Don't try to be He-man. It sucks when you have parts snap off in front of your eyes.

 

Ok, I just installed it, I tried to do what 20001 Integra GSR said but I think I tightened them up a little more than the stock GSR bar, but not enough to strip em. Anyways, install took all of 2 seconds (me like Strut bar install). It looks nice now, argghh, now I want a rear ITR strut bar, anyone know if they came stock on CDM/USDM ITRs?

 

Funny that you mention that. For US Integras, they did not come stock or as an option. From what I have been told, you could get them as an option upgrade outside of North America. I believe they offered it in Australia and Japan. I just recently bought one from Mike at ipsracing.com. He was great, and installation was simple. I noticed a big improvement in handling on my car. If you want more info, just ask.

 

Are you being serious? It actually makes a difference?

 

Of course I am serious. If you don't do a lot of hard cornering, then maybe you won't notice a difference. But I sure did notice a difference in my car. I am still contemplating on whether or not I should get a ITR rear sway bar.

 

the rear strut bar does not make any noticeable difference in handling unless you auto-x. The back of the car is very light so there is not a lot of load to be transfered. The front one makes a bigger difference because the front of our cars is very heavy compared to the rear, so there is more weight to be transfered.
It's all a manner of how the load gets distributed.


[Modified by 1fastGSR, 5:50 AM 11/25/2001]

 

I have the ITR sway. It makes a big difference! I also have stock 1995 suspension. I'm looking at the Skunk strut bars, they look strong. Thanks for the tips fellas.