OK i've been having some trouble with my brakes lately and I had a rear caliper lock up the other night and finally got a reman from the the parts store today. After putting the new caliper on and bleeding all 4 corners the correct way several times (making sure no air was in the lines) my brakes still suck. Now for my question...when my friend was pumping the brakes my MC sounded like air was coming out of it when he depressed the pedal. There was some slight leakage and gunky stuff directly under the MC and the pedal goes to the floor when held. Do I just need a new MC and that will solve my problem? If I get a new MC do I need a new booster as well? I wanna get and upgraded one like the 90-91 ex or the Da one. Can you have one without the other upgraded?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crexer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">OK i've been having some trouble with my brakes lately and I had a rear caliper lock up the other night and finally got a reman from the the parts store today. After putting the new caliper on and bleeding all 4 corners the correct way several times (making sure no air was in the lines) my brakes still suck. Now for my question...when my friend was pumping the brakes my MC sounded like air was coming out of it when he depressed the pedal. There was some slight leakage and gunky stuff directly under the MC and the pedal goes to the floor when held. Do I just need a new MC and that will solve my problem? If I get a new MC do I need a new booster as well? I wanna get and upgraded one like the 90-91 ex or the Da one. Can you have one without the other upgraded?</TD></TR></TABLE>


i would check the booster check valve first

 

You can bolt the EX master cylinder direclty onto your stock booster.

If you have visual signs that fluid is gathering around where the MC meets the booster then it's a good sign that it's leaking. Do the tests in the Helms if you want to check it for sure before you replace it.

 

thats the check valve?

 

i believe you can use an early prelude one aswell.. uhm.. 88-91?

some1 confirm?

 

I found out that the check valve controls the vacuum when the car is turned off but is this gonna help my brake pedal not feel mushy?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crexer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I found out that the check valve controls the vacuum when the car is turned off but is this gonna help my brake pedal not feel mushy?</TD></TR></TABLE>


i was referring to the dropping pedal when i was talking about the check valve, the check valve would be a cheaper fix then a new M/C and its simple to check to see if it is functional........you asked how you could trouble shoot the problem and i gave you an option.

 

The first thing you want to do is looking around the car for leaks. Then if thats not it Before you start the car pump the brakes till it gets hard. After it get hard if it does then turn the car on. If it goes down there shouldnt be a vacumm leak. But check the check valve anyway it should look like a lil elbow on the booster. Take it off blow in to one side if air goes through ok. Now blow through the opposite side if it doesnt go through it good but if it does then its bad. Now if the master cylider is bad then have the car on and put you foot on the pedal so your brakes are applied if leave you foot on the pedal if you feel the pedal go down slow to the floor then your seal inside the cylinder is mest up. You can get a seal kit for it but its easier to get a new MC.