I had taken the rear upper control arm off to do a coilover kit, and when i went to install it back together, The entire thread caseing that is built into the frame of the car broke off and now there is a hole with NO threading where the upper control arm bolt is supposed to be. I'm so pissed, has this ever happened to anyone else, if so what did you do to fix it?

I think my only option right now is to drop the gas tank, drill a hole into the frame large enough to place a bolt into the fawked hole and then secure the rear upper arm with a nut to the other side.

 

this happen to anyone? whats the solution here..

 

lunch crew

 

do you mean there is like a hole goign into your trunk? Picture would help me understand.

 

I 'll try to get a pic up tomorrow...

 

i have this same problem, i actaully cross threaded the whole thing and its all fucked up, i have it down at a welding shop to get the holes re-filled and then re drilled and threaded again. ill let you know how this works, and let me know if your solution works as well

 

holy ****!

I thought I was the only one... hah!

My car is still down, I haven't done a damn thing to it yet. I was planning to drop the tank, cut a hole into the frame and put a bolt through the hole. The problem is it has to be big enough to stick a socket in there to hold the other side.

Your welding idea seems like a good idea also. I assume they are going to weld the **** out of the hole, fill it up, then re-tap the threads. keep me posted dude!

I'll never use an impact to tighten those bolts again... cross threading sucks ***!

 

exactly i used an impact anf fucked em all up, actually my bolts came out while i was driving so all he is doing is re-filling it with wled, then re-drilling is (keep in mind this is steel difficult to drill) then he is re-threading both bolt holes on the upper control arm in the passenger rear on my 94 eg hatch.

 

so basically you still have the casing to put weld into, mine completly broke off and there is just a straight through hole.

My only option is to cut the frame

good luck dude.

keep me updated with your -situation lol

 

are we talking about the same bolt holes, im talking about the 2 that hold the upper control arm in the rear, i striped the **** outta them but luckilly the bolts came out, so i have 2 holes with really fucked up threads so nothing will go in them.

 

damn straight were talking about those two rear upper control arm holes...

I was able to get my bolts out also, BUT ... here's my delima,

I have NO threading at all, the whole inside thread caseing just broke off and dropped into the frame of the car.

It's a straight hole, nothing to even re-tap or weld..

I'll have to get a pic up so you can check this bs out.

 

right, so if you can just slip the stock bolts back through and put a nut on em, you shjould be fine, but getting to the back could be interesting

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bseriescivic5 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">right, so if you can just slip the stock bolts back through and put a nut on em, you shjould be fine, but getting to the back could be interesting</TD></TR></TABLE>

exactly my friend...

 

well let me know if you can get behind em, im still waiting on this ****** to do my car, i hate waitin for this ****, been 11 days now..........

 

i know its been about the same amount of time for me as well. I haven't had the time to work on it, too busy with summer school. but thats over now...

 

yeah i feel ya, well when you get to working on it, let me know how its goes, i want options if this ****** cant do it.

 

yeah, i'll keep you posted

 

hey boostedsol i would do it the way you are talking about doing and when you get the bolt in the frame weld into place so it wont ever move or unscrew on you. and then plug your hole that you made in the frame

 

what do you mean by plug the hole, he is putting a bolt through the two holes on the upper control arm in the rear, then attaching a nut on the end of both. Not to mention is going to be very difficult getting back there.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b20turbojason &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hey boostedsol i would do it the way you are talking about doing and when you get the bolt in the frame weld into place so it wont ever move or unscrew on you. and then plug your hole that you made in the frame</TD></TR></TABLE>

It would be nice to be able to weld the bolt into place, and is a good idea, but there is just absolutly NO room to make it happen. let alone I don't have access to any welding tools.

The best I can hope for is to JB the **** out of it and hope it holds. I can use a scrap piece of metal to cover the hole I make in the frame.

I'll let you all know how it works out...

 

what do you mean by JB it? i dont understand what you are trying to do

 

JB weld is a product that can be bought at a hardware store. Basically it's like "liquid steel" and when applied, after a few seconds solidifies to rock hardness..." like weld".

I could use this on the head of the bolt to secure it to the frame. Then slip the upper control arm through the bolt, then secure the nut.

 

I can testify that IF JB Weld can ever be even remotely close to being as strong as a weld, it must be very difficult to mix. I have found it to be fairly brittle, every time I've used it, and sure as **** would not use it for anything load-bearing.

Bseries - I did the same thing as you and cross-threaded one of those bolt holes. What I did was get a product called Helicoil (there's actually a better one, but is a lot more) which was about $50. It included a tap, insertion tool and 5-10 new threads! Basically, you drill out the fucked hole, tap it with this special size tap, screw in the coil, and you have a thread the size of the original hole! This is a tried and true method, and even being the first time, mine has held up for over a year and a half.

Oh, you can also then buy more coils, for about a dollar a piece, put them back in the set and return that ******. Total cost for repair is then like $10 for the coils and $5 for an odd-sized drill bit.

 

interesting.......and you can find this at any hardware store?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ion_four &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I can testify that IF JB Weld can ever be even remotely close to being as strong as a weld, it must be very difficult to mix. I have found it to be fairly brittle, every time I've used it, and sure as **** would not use it for anything load-bearing. </TD></TR></TABLE>

You're right, it's not the strongest material in the world, but it should help in my case to hold the bolt in from the other side until i am able to secure the nut to the other side.

I would by no means try to JB the upper control arm to the frame.