Well, I finally got everything squared out and went to the dyno .. After 19 passes the car put out 190whp !! I am very happy with the numbers and I am sure more could have been achieved but it was VERY late and everyone was very tired.. What do you guys think ??

Here's the setup:

Full head job (mill -020, port, polish, port-match IM, reshape chambers, etc.)
JUN valve springs
JUN retainers
JUN3 Cams
JUN ECU (tuned for JUN3 cams)
AEM cam gears
AEM pulleys
AEM FPR
Hondata heatshield IM gasket
JDM 4-1 header
2.5" test pipe in place of cat
Greddy EVO2 cat-back
Comptech IceBox
MSD SCI
MSD SS Coil
MSD 8.5mm wires
ARP head studs

NOTE: I have a scan of the graph but I need someone to host it !!

 

Pretty good numbers for still using the JDM 4-1 and Greddy exhaust. Enjoy the power.

Heres the graph:




Modified by 92TypeR at 8:44 AM 7/13/2004

 

nice number, what kind of torque? and what did you finally end up setting your cams to? for whatever reason, mine seemed to like 0,0 best but I never really got to dig deeper for more power before my motor exploded. Are you using a VAFC or just tuning with the cams?

 

No VAFC .. I'm thinking about it though .. I think the curve can be "sweetened" up in the high revs with an AFC.

The dyno runs were made this morning at 2:44am !! No joke, long story !! I have to peek inside the engine and get you the numbers for the gears.. let me get back to you on that one ..

I have to say I am absolutely impressed !! I feel torque in the car !! hehe !!

 

Good numbers. I am also curious if you are using a VAFC. I have a similar setup with the JUN ecu, and have a lot of friends who have run the setup. Did you check the a/f ratios because from my experience, the JUN ecu runs dangerously lean in the mid-range. I put an SAFC on mine and add a lot of fuel in the mid range and gained about 10-14 horsepower!!! Kind of gave me some dissappointment with the JUN ECU especially how expensive it is. I will try and post the dyno sheets if I can find them.

 

yes, its is quite a strange feeling to actually feel TORQUE in the car lol. Cruising in 5th gear on the highway, and no need to downshift to pass slower cars while still running the stock FD

 

should went hondata, i used to have a similar JUn III setup with SGT tuned hondata program, no head work and had ctr pistons and i put down 216/136

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jelly Bean &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">should went hondata, i used to have a similar JUn III setup with SGT tuned hondata program, no head work and had ctr pistons and i put down 216/136</TD></TR></TABLE>

iperez actually has pretty good numbers with stock pistons.

 

If I remember correctly, we tried to sway him from running the JUN ECU but he insisted. I would atleast try to run a VAFC to tune fuel. and then maybe later on, as the other guy stated above, give another EMS a try and see if you can improve that power even more so.

 

204/134 with the Jun3s, you should have went Hondata.

 

Yes, I agree Hondata is probably the way to go but remember that my particular situation is that I already had the JUN ECU so I'm seeing how far it will take me .. Considering my bottom end is 100% stock, I think the numbers are not bad at all ..

I'm thinking maybe with an AEBS intake, VAFC, and a couple of inexpensive bolt-on tricks I might get really close to 200. What do you think ??


Modified by iperez at 6:18 PM 7/13/2004

 

I would go with the VAFC first. The JUN ECU is decent, but every motor is different, so I would be pretty confident if I were you in some extra power with a VAFC. No joke, I gained 11-14 hp in the mid range as well as a few at the top by adding my SAFC to my JUN ECU. Also, the stock honda intake manifold is very good, you might be better off selling your JDM and saving up for a better header. You might be able to pick up a used JUN header for a good deal. Mine might be for sale.

 

Iperez i will say excellent numbers i wanna see that car with a vafc and intake manifold

 

dyno different, different day, different temp outside, different numbers.

it always amazes me how people always say u could have made more with this or what. maybe you'll realize 2 hp doesn't make a squat of difference on the track.

he ain't running this or that.

good #'s, and that's some awesome 6k-redline power.

 

For your set up Hondata would be but the vafc will also help...I think you can get to 200 with it. Did you dyno with any air/fuel numbers?

 

Is the JUN ecu OBD I or II?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by obd2gsr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">good #'s, and that's some awesome 6k-redline power.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

Thanks for the comments, I pay close attention to everyone's suggestions and I appreciate it ..

AussieR, the ECU is a JUN original (not a chipped ECU).. It is a P73 which is OBD2a. I agree that money is better spent on Hondata or something similar but I have to say the ECU worked great.. It eliminated the infamous "bog" that happened when the JUN3s engage VTEC and made a noticeable difference in the car's torque.. Another nice effect of the 9500RPM red-line is that I can run the 1/4 mile n 3rd gear; the with the OEM red-line I had to go to 4th to finish the pass. Daily driving is now fun because I can shift anywhere between 2-3K and feel a healthy dose of torque.. hopefully, this low-RPM driving will translate into some much-needed fuel economy.

I am going to the dyno today to see if the guys there saved my data .. probably not, but I'm going to check anyway.. There was all sorts of data including air/fuel, torque, etc .. Its just that at 2:44 in the morning I was really just wanting to go home

On a side note, I went to the quarter-mile strip last night to make some test-runs and I discovered I need new tires and a new clutch !! The car has no traction in 1st, 2nd, or 3rd gear !! Even launching at 2500RPMs there was no grip .. I must have lost a whole second peeling my tires in 2nd gear .. My OEM clutch was no help either


Modified by iperez at 4:04 PM 7/14/2004

 

Just a word of warning, your power is pretty much falling off between 8.5-9K RPM, so you might want to rethink about revving that high, especially if you are on a stock bottom end. See the link under my avatar to see what happens when a rod bolt lets go when revving it out like that.

 

RTW DC2, thanks for the advice .. I too saw the power drop from 8400 so I'm keeping the revs at 8600-8700 to keep thing safe .. I'm not making power above that anyway so there's no point in going higher.

 

Is this dyno on a B18C type r motor? If it is those are some lower numbers than I would expect. We did that on a B16A2 setup with CTR pistons but with Skunk 2 parts instead & Tanabe exhaust and DC header.

But yeah... I also would recommend a VAFC.
I think you should be able to get it to at least 210 or 220. Maybe a upgraded head gasket.

 

Aiyah... all that and the motor only put out 190whp? JUN parts ain't cheap....

 

Yes, I would have LOVED to see a 200 in the dyno graph. However, I've done a bit of research and it seems that this particular setup averages 190-200whp using a stock bottom end so I'm not dissapointed. Also, this is basically plug-and-play .. the only tuning factors were cam gears, timing, and gas pressure.. I have absolutely no doubt that I can break the 200whp mark with some fine tuning using an AFC .. Lastly, consider that your compression with the CTR pistons is probably much higher than mine which is in the high 11s to 1.

 

looks good, are you going to be bumping the compression up in the future?

 

Everyone is telling me to bump the compression with some pistons but I want to hold back on that until I can find out how high I can go just with top-end work and bolt ons.. I also don't want to bust open a virgin bottom end (I like the way that sounds ) just yet ..