What's the difference between coaxial and component front speakers? Yes, the price, but are they really that much better? I see they also have crossovers with them, but what is the use for them if crossovers are usually already built-in the hu and amp? Also, my car (2000 lude) has tweeters seperate from the front speaker, does it mean I can only put in component speakers or I can go with coaxials to save $$$? Would I have to disconnect the factory tweeter or use 2 tweeters? I'd like to have more bass, if possible.

 

Seperates give you more range of sound, from low to high. The reason for crossovers in component systems is, that you dont want anything below 160 hz going to your tweeter. All you want is Highs coming from the tweeter, so you can hear your vocals and symbols and ****. You pretty much answered your own question about what they are, and if you replace your speakers up front with non components, you'll have to disconnect the tweeters, or you can leave them hooked up and pray you dont blow them.

You will save money going with coax, rather than seperates. You want more bass? alpine 3 way components, they are extremely hard to obtain without a license, but i remember seeing a set on ebay not too long ago. Model number: spx-z18t.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by itr_dc2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Seperates give you more range of sound, from low to high. The reason for crossovers in component systems is, that you dont want anything below 160 hz going to your tweeter. All you want is Highs coming from the tweeter, so you can hear your vocals and symbols and ****. You pretty much answered your own question about what they are, and if you replace your speakers up front with non components, you'll have to disconnect the tweeters, or you can leave them hooked up and pray you dont blow them.

You will save money going with coax, rather than seperates. You want more bass? alpine 3 way components, they are extremely hard to obtain without a license, but i remember seeing a set on ebay not too long ago. Model number: spx-z18t.</TD></TR></TABLE> If you send 160Hz to your tweeter you will blow them, do you mean 1600Hz ? you can use the oem tweeters they are capped off at the tweeter,although two speakers in two differant locations and angles with same freq. can cause problems.

hope this helps 94

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by itr_dc2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Seperates give you more range of sound, from low to high. The reason for crossovers in component systems is, that you dont want anything below 160 hz going to your tweeter. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Stock prelude audio has components and no crossovers. I guess this issue is taken care somehow anyway.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by itr_dc2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">and if you replace your speakers up front with non components, you'll have to disconnect the tweeters, or you can leave them hooked up and pray you dont blow them.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Would that give me too much highs if I'll have 2 tweeters...one seperate and one in the coaxial?


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by itr_dc2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">alpine 3 way components, they are extremely hard to obtain without a license, but i remember seeing a set on ebay not too long ago. Model number: spx-z18t.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks, but for that price tag...hmm, no...

In general what would be better a 2 way coax or a 3 way coax? I'd like to have more bass and clear/brighter sound.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">although two speakers in two differant locations and angles with same freq. can cause problems.</TD></TR></TABLE>

What do you mean?


And another question...is it even worth it replacing stock prelude component system with an aftermarket coaxial (for the fronts)? May be adding an amp will be exactly what I'm looking for?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Some Car Audio FAQs (sticky) &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Are component/separates any better than fullrange or coaxials?
Usually, yes. Using separates allows you to position the drivers independently and more carefully, which will give you greater control over your imaging. For best results, try to keep the mid and tweeter as close together as possible -- this will make the two drivers act more like a single point source (which is ideal).

For rear fill applications, however, coaxial speakers will perform fine, as imaging is not a primary concern. However, it is very common to use a low pass crossover with the rear speakers (at 2500 Hz) since rear-fill is intended to produce "ambiance," and high frequencies (&gt; 2500 Hz) can confuse the soundstage, making it appear that music is originating behind you.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

that's in the faq I created.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by itr_dc2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Seperates give you more range of sound, from low to high. The reason for crossovers in component systems is, that you dont want anything below 160 hz going to your tweeter. All you want is Highs coming from the tweeter, so you can hear your vocals and symbols and ****. You pretty much answered your own question about what they are, and if you replace your speakers up front with non components, you'll have to disconnect the tweeters, or you can leave them hooked up and pray you dont blow them.

You will save money going with coax, rather than seperates. You want more bass? alpine 3 way components, they are extremely hard to obtain without a license, but i remember seeing a set on ebay not too long ago. Model number: spx-z18t.</TD></TR></TABLE>


hahaha, that's classic...

 

I read your faq twice...but you were talking about it from the imaging point of view. I was asking more about the sound quality and bass...plus a few extra specific questions.

 

an independant crossover and seperate speakers will produce better bass, highs, and overall sound quality because the sound waves will travel their own paths.

 

What do you think about 2 and 3 way coaxials? Which one is better and what can I expect from each?

 

2-way&lt;3-way&lt;4-way etc...
simply because there's more tweeters for higher definition.

 

But if I want more bass, wouldn't the tweeters just ruin it? The 2 way speakers must have their own advantages or else they wouldn't even bother making them.

 

if you just want bass, go coax. People goto seperates because they have subs and they cant hear their highs anymore. Their highs get drowned out by dirty bass (which i hate).

 

There's a lot of interesting things going on in this thread...let me try to help....


Difference - you get some additional freedom, more cone area on the midbass, generally higher quality components and the crossovers are of much higher quality.

Are they better then co-ax - depends on how you define better....

No, they don't guarentee more range of sound....you can have a comp set and a co-ax with the same frequency response....the benefits of a compset are listed above, and have nothing - imperically - to do with additional freq. response.

That's not true - the factory will incorporate crossovers between drivers where necessary - take a look at the factory speaker wire and you will probably see a cylinder hanging off of the tweeter - that's a capacitor that can be used as a simple high-pass crossover.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What do you mean?


And another question...is it even worth it replacing stock prelude component system with an aftermarket coaxial (for the fronts)? May be adding an amp will be exactly what I'm looking for?</TD></TR></TABLE>

When you have multiple drivers playing the same audio information from two different location, it screws up imaging, staging, etc....

Those factory components can't handle much past around 20W, and I wouldn't try too much power without high-passing them, so an aftermarket speaker with some good power is your best bet.

I wouldn't try to run aftermarket speakers from the factory deck - they will be starved for power.

The best compromise would probably be an aftermarket head, factory door speakers and a small sub/amp combo.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">2-way&lt;3-way&lt;4-way etc...
simply because there's more tweeters for higher definition.</TD></TR></TABLE>

That is a common misconception IMO. What do these extra tweeters REALLY gain you - nothing. All you have done is introduced more crossover points and more point sources - all of which can be a bad thing - I feel that they are more marketing gimick then anything else. In my experience, a simple two way co-ax sounds better then the three way couterpart - and it's cheaper!


Hopefully that helps you out. It's really hard to recommend you much of anything without learning more about your current equipment and your budget. If you really want bass - actuall bass - you will need a sub. How large or loud you want that sub to be is up to you, but co-ax speakers will always be a compromise.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rcurley55 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The best compromise would probably be an aftermarket head, factory door speakers and a small sub/amp combo.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I already have a pioneer head (8600). Right now on the top of my priority list is an amp. Then the rear speakers and only then the fronts. I'm pretty much sure that if I decide to upgrage the rest of audio system, I will get an amp and rears. Not sure right now about the fronts, but I think you made up my mind on 2-way coaxials...if I decide to change them. I'm still in the research phase...trying to figure out what I really need here.


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rcurley55 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hopefully that helps you out.</TD></TR></TABLE>

It did! A lot of helpful information.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rcurley55 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It's really hard to recommend you much of anything without learning more about your current equipment and your budget.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Because I already spent on this car way more than I expected myself to spend, I'm not willing to spend much more. May be 200-300 dollars for the extra audio upgrage, that will give reasonable bass, bring the distortion to a minimum (after I tune up my hu/amp) and have a clear and crisp sound. I don't know if you're familiar with pioneer head units, but what I do is set the loudness to on, BBE to +4 (that's the max) and tune the eq as much as possible. Right now, at about 7-8 sound level, my speakers distort...or I guess this is due to a weak hu amp. And 7-8 is ain't that loud. The most I would probably go to is 13-15...and right now I get way too much highs from the fronts and can't really up the bass that much...so I'm not too satisfied...unless I set the eq to near line level and turn off the BBE. The distortion will be minimal, but so as sound Do you think it is realistic what I try to accomplish here with 200-300 dollars?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rcurley55 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you really want bass - actuall bass - you will need a sub. How large or loud you want that sub to be is up to you, but co-ax speakers will always be a compromise.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I don't really want a sub...as it is extra cash and extra "waste" in already a small trunk...and lets say extra weight as well. I know I can get reasonable bass without subs, so I'm staying away from them at least on this car.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by itr_dc2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if you just want bass, go coax. People goto seperates because they have subs and they cant hear their highs anymore. Their highs get drowned out by dirty bass (which i hate).</TD></TR></TABLE>

dude, that makes no sense at all. people go separates because they are for the most part better drivers. i went with components

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
A three-way won't guarentee you any more bass output then a two way... </TD></TR></TABLE>

I think that depends on the component set. Most of them that i've seen have the same drivers as the 6 1/2" component set with a 5 1/4" driver thrown in there and another crossover point. There are other companies that include a larger midbass driver like a 7" or 8" which would give you better mid-bass output. a 3way set is still not a replacement for a good sub.

One advantage i see to a 3 way set is you generally have more control over the midrange driver as there's virtually no excursion. You can also have a higher crossover point between the midrange driver and the tweeter which from which i see as being better for imaging. I know B&W uses 4.5khz and dynaudio use a 4khz crossover point

There's one thing i dont think has been mentioned in this thread and thats that coaxials are in theory better for imaging because they are closer to a true point source driver than component sets. remember thats only in theory because they typically come with cheap crossovers.

anyone heard of anyone doing ribbon tweeters in a car??