i have a 12 inch jl w6 in my car, and it doesn't bump as hard as it's suppose to? i was wondering if my 1200 watt 2 channel performance teknique amp can powered it.. should i bridge it for more power?

 

how is it wired now? are you sure you have both voice coils hooked up? and what voice coil configuration is the w6 you have?

 

i got the sub to work. should i bridge it for more power?

 

v1 or v2? v1 sucks ***! how many ohms is your amp stable down to?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by spark plugs. &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> v1 sucks ***! </TD></TR></TABLE>

Ummm, yeah, that subwoofer that JL released that was the reference standard for the car audio industry sure does suck indeed - despite the fact that it's still better then many woofers out there - yup that ground breaking technology really is the *****....

where's that roll-eyes smilie when you need it. Sure it's not the best thing out today, but saying it sucks is another thing all together...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by spark plugs. &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">v1 or v2? v1 sucks ***! </TD></TR></TABLE>

i had one and it is true if you don't know what the hell you are doing

its double 6ohm voice coils i think, its probably getting little power if not on the right amp, need at least 500 rms at 3ohm

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rcurley55 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Ummm, yeah, that subwoofer that JL released that was the reference standard for the car audio industry sure does suck indeed - despite the fact that it's still better then many woofers out there - yup that ground breaking technology really is the *****....

where's that roll-eyes smilie when you need it. Sure it's not the best thing out today, but saying it sucks is another thing all together...</TD></TR></TABLE>

I would have to agree, I had three of these crapy speakers. The car they are in now still sounds better most things I have heard today. And they still hit just as hard.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nsxxtreme &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I would have to agree, I had three of these crapy speakers. The car they are in now still sounds better most things I have heard today. And they still hit just as hard.</TD></TR></TABLE>


exactly why most people think they stick, because they need to be triod

i had one and it sucked on my alpine v12, my friend had 3 on a crossfire 1000D now


and they were 15s!


w6v1s will sound crappy by themself unless they are getting a ton of power

apparently jl designed it with 6ohm dvcs to ensure they were used in sets of 3?


thats what i heard anyway

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bassisliffe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


exactly why most people think they stick, because they need to be triod

i had one and it sucked on my alpine v12, my friend had 3 on a crossfire 1000D now


and they were 15s!


w6v1s will sound crappy by themself unless they are getting a ton of power

apparently jl designed it with 6ohm dvcs to ensure they were used in sets of 3?


thats what i heard anyway </TD></TR></TABLE>

What your saying makes no sense. They are a 300 watt speaker, put 300 watts to one and it will sound fine. Most of the problems I have seen is because people try to put them in generic boxes. The box makes all the difference. These speakers like to be ported.

The reason for the design of 3 6 ohm speakers is because they satisfied to groups of people.

Most amps in these days were designed to handle a 4 ohm load bridged.
The other amps in these days were cheater amps designed for low impedence.

The 12w6 satisfied both groups. You could hook 3 up in a 4 or 1 ohm load.

 

it's a v1.. so u guys are sayin this sub sucks, but it sounds better than most subs out there nowadays? fill me in please. i don't know much about car audio.. but here the amp i have.



it this enough juice to bump that ****?

 

No it doesn't suck it sounds just fine. Make sure you follow JL Audio's recommended box and port sizes. Do not use a generic box.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nsxxtreme &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You could hook 3 up in a 4 or 1 ohm load.</TD></TR></TABLE>

exactly why they are used in treos, to get a 1ohm load....

that amp he has is tickling the sub

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bassisliffe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

exactly why they are used in treos, to get a 1ohm load....

that amp he has is tickling the sub </TD></TR></TABLE>

Remember this is a 300W speaker, pure and simple giving it any more than 300W is a waste. If he has this DVC sub wired in series to his amplifier he presents a 12 ohm load which will drastically reduce power levels. If he wires the DVC into a 3 ohm load he will have more than enough power, to power this sub. Assuming his amps ratings are correct.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nsxxtreme &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Remember this is a 300W speaker, pure and simple giving it any more than 300W is a waste. If he has this DVC sub wired in series to his amplifier he presents a 12 ohm load which will drastically reduce power levels. If he wires the DVC into a 3 ohm load he will have more than enough power, to power this sub. Assuming his amps ratings are correct.</TD></TR></TABLE><TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nsxxtreme &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">No it doesn't suck it sounds just fine. Make sure you follow JL Audio's recommended box and port sizes. Do not use a generic box.</TD></TR></TABLE>
We are a JL dealer nd I have installed many of the 12w6 and as stated above use recommended box and port sizes, 480 watts will power them just fine, amps that are not stable at 2ohms will work at 3ohms.

hope this helps. 94

 

i dont trust that amp. subs arent as good as the lastest and greatest but they are pretty good.


Modified by john666 at 8:05 AM 7/14/2004

 

ok, thanks for the comments!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ieatrice &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok, thanks for the comments!</TD></TR></TABLE> YW 94

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nsxxtreme &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Remember this is a 300W speaker, pure and simple giving it any more than 300W is a waste. If he has this DVC sub wired in series to his amplifier he presents a 12 ohm load which will drastically reduce power levels. If he wires the DVC into a 3 ohm load he will have more than enough power, to power this sub. Assuming his amps ratings are correct.</TD></TR></TABLE>


uhh, that amp will not PUMP 300 WATTS INTO THE SUB AT 3OHM!

 

runs and bumps fine for me.. sounds pretty good compared to what most of my friends have. u mean it can sound better?!