OT: $400 every turbo Honda guy needs to spend.
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Honda-Tech Member
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From: Destroying turbo ITR motors in Minneapolis, MN, U.S.A.
OT: $400 every turbo Honda guy needs to spend.
NOTE: This is not meant to be a be-all, end-all clutch install guide. It is merely a rough guide to installing a clutch so you get the gist of what's involved. No flames please.
------------
Yesterday, myself and a few locals installed my ACT HDSS clutch kit, which had been sitting in my trunk collecting dust for months.
The culprit: my turbo 97 civic EX, with a 125k mile slipping stock clutch.
No wait, slipping is a compliment. That bitch was DEAD.
Take off the basic stuff: piping, various harness clips, mounts, starter (2 bolts), etc. It's common sense; whatever's stopping the tranny from coming off the engine.
Take off the axle nuts. Apparently they're a bitch to get off, but mine came off easily with airtools.
There's my baby, just chillin' getting her axles taken out.
Once all the various tranny bolts, starter, mounts, axles, harnesses and whatever else is in the way is off, remove the tranny from the engine. You may need to wiggle with it a little bit as in most cases the tranny's never been off the car. Mine came off after about 5 minutes of pulling, hammering with a pick and swearing.
Finally got the tranny off, look at that disgusting old stock clutch. While the tranny was out we replaced the pilot bearing with a new one supplied by ACT.
Side-by-side comparison of the old goods and the new goods (ACT HD pressure plate and SS street disc).
Look at how worn my old stock disc was!
My stock flywheel wasn't doing so well either...
...so we put in a fresh Y7 flywheel we had laying around instead (machine shop was closed
). Also put in the new ACT throwout bearing.
New flywheel installed. TORQUE THE BOLTS DOWN PROPERLY. (87 ft./lbs. for my motor)
And finally, the ACT HDSS clutch installed. Remember to torque down the pressure plate bolts down too (19 ft./lbs. on my motor).
That just about sums it up...
Oh wait, I forgot that we locked the keys in my car and had to break into it.
It was too easy
Installation is the reverse of removal. Make sure that you get some good tranny fluid and properly bleed the clutch. Also be careful not to damage the axle seals when re-installing so they do not leak.
Like I said, that just about sums it up for the clutch install. I left a LOT out, as far as specifics, but my intent was to show the n00bs that a clutch install isn't as daunting as it may seem (or at least as bad as I thought it would be).
Some other goodies I got to go along with the clutch:
-B&M Edge short shifter
-ES poly bushings (make shifting SOOO smooth)
-GM Synchromesh Friction Modified fluid (the ****)
So in total for just under $400 I got a perfectly shifting transmission for my boosted coupe.
This is boostincoupe, signing off.
------------
Yesterday, myself and a few locals installed my ACT HDSS clutch kit, which had been sitting in my trunk collecting dust for months.
The culprit: my turbo 97 civic EX, with a 125k mile slipping stock clutch.
No wait, slipping is a compliment. That bitch was DEAD.
Take off the basic stuff: piping, various harness clips, mounts, starter (2 bolts), etc. It's common sense; whatever's stopping the tranny from coming off the engine.
Take off the axle nuts. Apparently they're a bitch to get off, but mine came off easily with airtools.
There's my baby, just chillin' getting her axles taken out.
Once all the various tranny bolts, starter, mounts, axles, harnesses and whatever else is in the way is off, remove the tranny from the engine. You may need to wiggle with it a little bit as in most cases the tranny's never been off the car. Mine came off after about 5 minutes of pulling, hammering with a pick and swearing.
Finally got the tranny off, look at that disgusting old stock clutch. While the tranny was out we replaced the pilot bearing with a new one supplied by ACT.
Side-by-side comparison of the old goods and the new goods (ACT HD pressure plate and SS street disc).
Look at how worn my old stock disc was!
My stock flywheel wasn't doing so well either...
...so we put in a fresh Y7 flywheel we had laying around instead (machine shop was closed
). Also put in the new ACT throwout bearing.New flywheel installed. TORQUE THE BOLTS DOWN PROPERLY. (87 ft./lbs. for my motor)
And finally, the ACT HDSS clutch installed. Remember to torque down the pressure plate bolts down too (19 ft./lbs. on my motor).
That just about sums it up...
Oh wait, I forgot that we locked the keys in my car and had to break into it.
It was too easy
Installation is the reverse of removal. Make sure that you get some good tranny fluid and properly bleed the clutch. Also be careful not to damage the axle seals when re-installing so they do not leak.
Like I said, that just about sums it up for the clutch install. I left a LOT out, as far as specifics, but my intent was to show the n00bs that a clutch install isn't as daunting as it may seem (or at least as bad as I thought it would be).
Some other goodies I got to go along with the clutch:
-B&M Edge short shifter
-ES poly bushings (make shifting SOOO smooth)
-GM Synchromesh Friction Modified fluid (the ****)
So in total for just under $400 I got a perfectly shifting transmission for my boosted coupe.
This is boostincoupe, signing off.
Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 468
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From: The hole next to Shelly, SC
Re: OT: $400 every turbo Honda guy needs to spend. (boostincoupe)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boostincoupe »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
......and properly bleed the clutch. </TD></TR></TABLE>
If you remove the slave from the trans and leave the line on, you can skip this step and save yourself a ton of time.
......and properly bleed the clutch. </TD></TR></TABLE>
If you remove the slave from the trans and leave the line on, you can skip this step and save yourself a ton of time.
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 7,942
Likes: 0
From: Destroying turbo ITR motors in Minneapolis, MN, U.S.A.
Re: OT: $400 every turbo Honda guy needs to spend. (The Crow)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by The Crow »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
If you remove the slave from the trans and leave the line on, you can skip this step and save yourself a ton of time.</TD></TR></TABLE>
That's actually exactly what I did, but I posted it because that's the "conventional" way to do it.
If you remove the slave from the trans and leave the line on, you can skip this step and save yourself a ton of time.</TD></TR></TABLE>
That's actually exactly what I did, but I posted it because that's the "conventional" way to do it.
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Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 7,942
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From: Destroying turbo ITR motors in Minneapolis, MN, U.S.A.
Re: OT: $400 every turbo Honda guy needs to spend. (T3-T4TEG)
I'm just saying every turbo honda guy should get a clutch, short shifter, poly bushings and GM Synchromesh.
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Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 6,236
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From: Texasss
Re: OT: $400 every turbo Honda guy needs to spend. (boostincoupe)
Just a tip to make it easier, you don't have to remove the axle nuts. Simply remove the lca crown nut, drop the lca and pull the axles out of the tranny leaving them attached to the hubs. Works like a champ, plus you don't have to un-stamp and stamp the axle nuts.
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