ok i have searched many times and gotten a lot of ideas but nothing has fixed my high idle......it idles at 1100-1200 when fully warm and also sometimes acts like it has a vacuum leak, dropping from 1200 to 800 and back up etc......it is a z6 block, with a y8 head, z6 intake manifold, b18a1 tb.......ive checked the idle adjusment screw, the butterfly adjustment screw, eacv has been cleaned, map and tps arent switched....the only ideas i have are.....A) im using a y8 head, z6 intake manifold, and a z6 IM gasket, is that causing a leak? or B) im using a b16 tb gasket and that might make a leak? or any other suggestions....thanks!
its in a ef hatch obd0

 

i have the same plm but my is stock d16a6 and my valve need to nbe adjust and now does this casue when valve are out of spec and cause a wierd idle ?

 

does it have an fitv on it? should be attached under the tb if it does have one. That may need to be tightened if there is one present. my d15b vtec did the same thing you are discribing, tightened mine up and had no more issues.

 

when the car is fully warm unplug the IACV and note the idle speed. did it drop down to 500-600 rpm and stay steady?

 

i allready tightened the fitv....and yes it drops down to the correct idle when i unplug the eacv

 

EACV or IACV

Im having the same problem with my brothers car, and I dont know what either of them are

 

still cant fix it!!!!!!!!!!!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18TurboEF &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i allready tightened the fitv....and yes it drops down to the correct idle when i unplug the eacv</TD></TR></TABLE>

IACV is bad then. To test. Get a 9v battery and two 2 ft. long elec wires. attach 1 wire to the battery terminals (1 neg, 1 pos) and touch the other ends to the IACV plug pins. If the IACV is good you'll hear a "bong" when it closes/opens.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by W O T &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">EACV or IACV

Im having the same problem with my brothers car, and I dont know what either of them are</TD></TR></TABLE>

this is the IACV (aka EACV) *Idle Air Control Valve* *Electronic Air Control Valve*

Red circle = IACV (ignore large vac tube, for something else)

 

ya i know what it is.....but im throwing no codes and i took it off and cleaned it and its still happening.....what eacv/iacv's are compatible with a z6 intake manifold?

 

they wont always throw codes.. bad ones usually get stuck wide open. (higher idle)

there are two common types. depends on bolt spacing.. to be safe get one from a z6 motor.

 

reset the ecu, start the car up and let it idle for 5 mins. Make sure all the vacume lines are on tight and not broken

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by t0eKnEe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">reset the ecu, start the car up and let it idle for 5 mins. Make sure all the vacume lines are on tight and not broken</TD></TR></TABLE>

ya this can't hurt to try b4 getting a new iacv.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crx_88_si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If the IACV is good you'll hear a "bong" when it closes/opens.</TD></TR></TABLE>


Mahehheheheheeee! He said ... BONG! Mahehheheheheeee!

(In a Beavis voice).

 

when should it open or close?

 

when you send current through it using the 9v bettery it will open.

 

mine does the same , i took it apart an repacked the bearing type thing with grease an it works fine now ! hope that helps

 

i just cut out a piece of soda can and put it inbetween the eacv and intake manifold and it runs great now.....thanks for the input everyone!