Problems starting 1998 Accord EX Coupe
Around 3 yrs ago, on a particulary hot day my 1998 Honda Accord EX wouldn't start after pumping gas. It just turned over, trying to start but would never catch. I had it towed to dealership, they couldn't duplicate the problem.
Last summer, it started having this same problem intermittently. It seemed to be if the car had been parked for some time in hot weather, every 2 weeks or so, it wouldn't start. After opening windows and trying 2-3 times, it would start. I reported it to the dealership. Also, it never has had this problem in the Winter or Fall. They replaced the ignition switch. I also had 2 new sets of keys made at this time.
Lately, it's become increasing a problem. And, now goes far longer periods not starting, opening windows or cooling the car does not help. Last Sunday night, on an unusually cool night after being parked for almost 4 days, it never would crank. Next morning, still wouldn't start. I had it towed to the dealership.
As soon as the service department saw I had new keys made (which neither new set ever worked right), they said it was likely a problem with the immobilizer and the bad keys. They didn't check anything else, but re-programmed the keys that they made. I asked them if they could duplicate the problem, and they said only once and it was because the technician had "turned the key too fast".
I picked the car up on Thursday with my new re-programmed keys. No problems until tonight. The cars not starting again, and this time I've made sure to turn the key really slowly. This sounds really stupid to me, almost like telling me to "not push a button too hard". I don't think I have any issues with turning the key too quick, but I'm really annoyed b/c I'm trapped in my house.
Please if anyone has any suggestions. I'm all ears.
Thanks,
HL
Last summer, it started having this same problem intermittently. It seemed to be if the car had been parked for some time in hot weather, every 2 weeks or so, it wouldn't start. After opening windows and trying 2-3 times, it would start. I reported it to the dealership. Also, it never has had this problem in the Winter or Fall. They replaced the ignition switch. I also had 2 new sets of keys made at this time.
Lately, it's become increasing a problem. And, now goes far longer periods not starting, opening windows or cooling the car does not help. Last Sunday night, on an unusually cool night after being parked for almost 4 days, it never would crank. Next morning, still wouldn't start. I had it towed to the dealership.
As soon as the service department saw I had new keys made (which neither new set ever worked right), they said it was likely a problem with the immobilizer and the bad keys. They didn't check anything else, but re-programmed the keys that they made. I asked them if they could duplicate the problem, and they said only once and it was because the technician had "turned the key too fast".
I picked the car up on Thursday with my new re-programmed keys. No problems until tonight. The cars not starting again, and this time I've made sure to turn the key really slowly. This sounds really stupid to me, almost like telling me to "not push a button too hard". I don't think I have any issues with turning the key too quick, but I'm really annoyed b/c I'm trapped in my house.
Please if anyone has any suggestions. I'm all ears.
Thanks,
HL
It's a V6. And, I don't know what the immobilizer light is? The check engine and all my other lights come on. The check engine goes off after about 2 seconds. The engine turns over, just won't crank.
The 98+ Accords have a new type main relay; but it isn't bullet proof. I've replaced a few of them. It would be good to know if you are losing spark or injector pulse when the problem occurs.
Another strange problem with the fuel system is the injectors need pressure, or they will cause a 'flooded' condition. It's best to turn the key on, wait for the check engine lite to go off, then crank the engine.
Another strange problem with the fuel system is the injectors need pressure, or they will cause a 'flooded' condition. It's best to turn the key on, wait for the check engine lite to go off, then crank the engine.
I had to repleace my main relay in my 98 EX couple 4 cyl last summer, it was causing no-start conditions, an easy way to tell is when the car isn't starting, tap the main relay pretty hard and then try to start the car - if it starts right up the main relay is junk
Thanks so much for the quick response. I hate to sound like an idiot, but by tapping the main relay....do you mean pushing the gas pedal?
Also, I have tried letting the check engine light go off before turning the key all the way without any success. It still won't start.
If the main relay is bad, do you know an estimate of cost? I just spent $1200.00 getting the timing belt and other service maintenance done last week when they were supposed to be correcting the not starting issue. I guess I was easily "upsold". I don't mind the money; I just can't keep getting left on the side of the road.
Thanks for all of your responses. This time when I have it towed to the dealership tomorrow morning. I want to offer him a few suggestions so they aren't so confused with my issue.
Thanks,
HL
Also, I have tried letting the check engine light go off before turning the key all the way without any success. It still won't start.
If the main relay is bad, do you know an estimate of cost? I just spent $1200.00 getting the timing belt and other service maintenance done last week when they were supposed to be correcting the not starting issue. I guess I was easily "upsold". I don't mind the money; I just can't keep getting left on the side of the road.
Thanks for all of your responses. This time when I have it towed to the dealership tomorrow morning. I want to offer him a few suggestions so they aren't so confused with my issue.
Thanks,
HL
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no when I say tap the main relay I mean take your fist and PUNCH the main relay. yes I'm serious. if you give it a good bitch slap, it will become "unstuck" and the car should start. if that's your problem.
the relay for my car was like $32. HOWEVER if you take it to the dealership they will most likely be unable to replicate your problem, and will charge you out the A$$ for labor and prolly not fix anything.
IMO, buy the main relay, install it yourself, and hopefully it fixes your problem. much better than being raped by the dealer and having nothing fixed.
the relay for my car was like $32. HOWEVER if you take it to the dealership they will most likely be unable to replicate your problem, and will charge you out the A$$ for labor and prolly not fix anything.
IMO, buy the main relay, install it yourself, and hopefully it fixes your problem. much better than being raped by the dealer and having nothing fixed.
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