Hood release cable relocation how-to ??
I had some parts taken for under my hood and i want to find this how to so that i can stop it from happening again. Can anyone point me in the direction so i can fix this.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Soulless »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just the cable.</TD></TR></TABLE>
So they went under your bumper and pulled the cable eh?
So they went under your bumper and pulled the cable eh?
right now it goes through in the drivers side fender, iv never done it, but id drill a hole either in the back of the fender or in the fire wall and run it through the engine bay and then up the the radiator support and to the latch
try it and let us know what happens, i might do it also
try it and let us know what happens, i might do it also
Trending Topics
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Soulless »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just the cable.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I did this while installing some parts on the car, because you have to dissasemble some things.
Take off the bumper / grill, fender lining, front left wheel (makes it alot easier), and possibly headlight (it runs under there, can make it easier depending on the model), and the hood latch.
With the hood latch off, disconnect the hood cable. Then trace it back to where it comes through the wheel well. Then re-route it to wherever you want. If you don't want it to come through at the stock location, you'll have to pull it all the way inside the car, then find an empty grommet to run it through.
I did this while installing some parts on the car, because you have to dissasemble some things.
Take off the bumper / grill, fender lining, front left wheel (makes it alot easier), and possibly headlight (it runs under there, can make it easier depending on the model), and the hood latch.
With the hood latch off, disconnect the hood cable. Then trace it back to where it comes through the wheel well. Then re-route it to wherever you want. If you don't want it to come through at the stock location, you'll have to pull it all the way inside the car, then find an empty grommet to run it through.
I did this in my old CRX, I dunno if its the same for the hatchs, probably is....its easy, just un-do the clips in the fender and stuff....and pull it through, then grab it like behinde the headlight...like down by the radiator...almost where the cable starts
then just run it through the hood neatly, and straight through the firewall, and clamp back on the latch, very easy, took like 20 mins, and good for security
then just run it through the hood neatly, and straight through the firewall, and clamp back on the latch, very easy, took like 20 mins, and good for security
I've relocated the hood cable on a '95 Integra, '89 CRX, and a '93 Civic hatch - they're all the same. There is a existing rubber grommet where a lot of wiring runs through from the engine compartment on the driver's side that's perfect for this, or power line runs for amps, etc. No drilling is necessary.
There is certainly no need to remove the GRILL or the BUMPER or the HEADLIGHT!
All you need is a 10 mm socket (deep well is better) to remove the two bolts that attach the hood release lever bracket from the kickpanel area. Once it's loose, you can remove the cylinder-shaped steel end of the cable from the handle. Then jack up the front left side (or pull the wheel) to get access to the fasteners that hold the fender liner in place. Break off (or carefully release) the white plastic clips that hold the cable in place, and then back the cable out from the interior to the latch. Reroute the cable inside the engine compartment and put it through the bottom of that existing rubber grommet. Reinstall cable end and release lever bracket. If you want to be a little more stealth, run some wire loom over the cable inside the engine compartment.
If this takes you longer than an hour (including a **** break), you should maybe start with some Modifiers or Legos or something to improve your mechanical skills.
There was no degradation in the cable pull or feel BTW in any of the three cable relocations I did.
There is certainly no need to remove the GRILL or the BUMPER or the HEADLIGHT!
All you need is a 10 mm socket (deep well is better) to remove the two bolts that attach the hood release lever bracket from the kickpanel area. Once it's loose, you can remove the cylinder-shaped steel end of the cable from the handle. Then jack up the front left side (or pull the wheel) to get access to the fasteners that hold the fender liner in place. Break off (or carefully release) the white plastic clips that hold the cable in place, and then back the cable out from the interior to the latch. Reroute the cable inside the engine compartment and put it through the bottom of that existing rubber grommet. Reinstall cable end and release lever bracket. If you want to be a little more stealth, run some wire loom over the cable inside the engine compartment.
If this takes you longer than an hour (including a **** break), you should maybe start with some Modifiers or Legos or something to improve your mechanical skills.
There was no degradation in the cable pull or feel BTW in any of the three cable relocations I did.
I've personally never done it but im sure its not that difficult. The idiot that my friend got his car from somehow kinked the cable so bad that the release latch no longer works and we no have to go to a junkyard to get a new one
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRXMR2SM2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
There is certainly no need to remove the GRILL or the BUMPER or the HEADLIGHT!
.</TD></TR></TABLE>
In my coupe, the cable was run and clipped under the core suppport, and the only way to access the clips was to remove the bumper. It takes less than 5 minutes to remove the bumper, so what's the big deal. I removed the headlight to re-run the cable where it would be hard to access, and like I said, it wasn't totally necessarry.
There is certainly no need to remove the GRILL or the BUMPER or the HEADLIGHT!
.</TD></TR></TABLE>
In my coupe, the cable was run and clipped under the core suppport, and the only way to access the clips was to remove the bumper. It takes less than 5 minutes to remove the bumper, so what's the big deal. I removed the headlight to re-run the cable where it would be hard to access, and like I said, it wasn't totally necessarry.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Legion_2
Honda Civic / Del Sol (1992 - 2000)
10
Jan 29, 2009 04:31 AM




